[BenF]

Thanks but I'm looking for a wired earpiece. I'd rather not get Bluetooth earbuds given the batteries will wear out over time and unlike headphones, they typically won't have the option be operated with a cable.

I recommend the original Yanyin Canon (stay away from Canon2!).
You'll probably have to turn the Bass switch on to get a similar experience to P7W, but maybe not...

It typically goes for 300-350$ on Ali, so within your budget.

 

[The Azure]

I recommend the original Yanyin Canon (stay away from Canon2!).
You'll probably have to turn the Bass switch on to get a similar experience to P7W, but maybe not...

It typically goes for 300-350$ on Ali, so within your budget.

Awesome. I’ll look into these. Thanks!

 

[Joe Bloggs]

I recommend the original Yanyin Canon (stay away from Canon2!).
You'll probably have to turn the Bass switch on to get a similar experience to P7W, but maybe not...

It typically goes for 300-350$ on Ali, so within your budget.

sorry I have to ask--what's your beef with Canon II? As we are actually looking for feedback on these ahead of our next product design.

 

[BenF]

sorry I have to ask--what's your beef with Canon II? As we are actually looking for feedback on these ahead of our next product design.

Comparing Canon OG and Canon 2 in their best sounding configurations (000 and 10), Canon 2 loses on tonality and transparency.
Canon OG has perfect transparency and tonality, in line with two of my favorite headphones - Stax 009 (3800$) and Takstar Pro 82 v2 (65$).
Canon 2 is not way off on tonality, it's quite natural - but when comparing side-by-side with Canon OG, the difference is obvious.

Because of the imperfect tonality and lack of total transparency I can't achieve the same immersion that Canon OG provides me.
Maybe that additional BA driver was a mistake?

One thing that Canon 2 sometimes (but not always) does better, is the bass - it has richer texture, but faster decay.

Canon OG was almost perfect, and it's very difficult to improve on perfection. I suggest the following:
1) OG Canon as a Bluetooth IEMs - no ANC/transparency, just the same great sound in wireless form + microphone. APTX Adaptive support is a must.
2) OG Canon with the dynamic driver from Canon 2 - could be the birth of the perfect IEM!
3) OG Canon with just the first switch, so people can switch between two configurations. Make the switch big enough not to need the SIM ejector tool to operate it, and price it at 199$ - it will be a bestseller for years and years to come. I own 3 Canon OGs, and I would gladly buy another one that would allow me to change the sound more easily.

Important - Both Canon OG and Canon 2 come with really bad ear tips, which affect the sound greatly.
Final Audio Type B and KBear 07 tips significantly improve the sound.

Correction - I meant KBear 08 - Canon 2 doesn't sound as good with KBear 07.
Canon 2 is even more tip dependent than Canon OG - the tips make a dramatic difference, it's a completely different IEM with KBear 08. Yanyin should include them in the box, customers will be much happier. With the original tips, it's a 100$ IEM at best.

 

[BoydusMacZoidus]

I'm a bit late to this thread...

However, I at least have an excuse! My B&W P7 Wireless headphones I've been rocking for many, many years without issues, and they've been AMAZING.

But recently, the metal "connector" piece on the main headband had been coming slightly loose from where it fits into the headphone speaker unit itself (RHS).

The issue was caused by a small pin inside the headphone that stops this connector from coming loose (see arrow):

Of course, i naively simply pushed it back in and jogged on. However, over time, this policy led to a final cut in one of the wires and bang...suddenly when on bluetooth, no audio going into the LHS. No option but to open the beggar up, and continuity testing confirmed a break in one of the wires carrying audio from the RHS to LHS (when attached to the headphone cable rather than wireless, no audio loss was detected in either speaker).

I was not able to locate the precise position of the cable cut, and so i (perhaps unwisely?!) desoldered the wire from both headphones and decided to just replace it. This seemed to be the easier option at that time. Ha!

But I'm having a tricky time getting replacement wire. It appears to be 5-core shielded audio cable. I can get a product called Tasker C181—it's 3 mm in diameter. Or UL2547...which is is 3.5 mm diam. However, the original B&W wire seems to be only 2 mm diam, and any more than that may have issues feeding through the various holes...

Which is an issue of perhaps gargantuan proportions! I've just tried to feed the original wire through the small hole in the metal piece that feeds into the speaker cup...and I just don't see how B&W have done it...it essentially is a 90-degree angle...and, furthermore, the hole in the headband wire is now blocked by the old wire because I was not able to feed it the entire way through without it getting stuck (!!)...

So I'm wondering how to proceed. Unless I can find some 2 mm 5-core wire, I'm unlikely to be able to get it "as new" visually. Even if I can locate such thin wire, I currently cannot imagine how to feed it though that 90-degree turn, and then how to remove the stuck wire inside the headband (strong vacuum or a coathanger?!).

Maybe I will need to just go with a major bodge job, and proceed with the thicker wire, accepting that I may have to open up a hole in the side of the headphone cups and also just sticking the wire to the top of the headband instead. Not great visually, but all I really am mainly interested in is bringing these amazing headphones back to life so that they sound as they did. After all, you can't see yourself while you're wearing them, so who cares anyway?!

Any thoughts greatly appreciated!

Oh, and to the previous post r.e. the battery—it's not a difficult job at all...inside the (left?) cup and only 3 wires to desolder, if you have the gear.