BLON BL-30 Review, impressions and discussion thread
Jan 27, 2021 at 2:47 PM Post #211 of 295
Has anybody else felt that, sometimes when you go to wear them, you can feel the drivers "pop" backwards and move back into position, specially with larger earpads?
And they are so light, if you blow on them lightly with the earpads off, they will move.
 
Jan 27, 2021 at 6:00 PM Post #213 of 295
Mine "crinkle" more than pop, but this certainly results from changing the pressure in my mostly sealed deep pads.
Yeah, exactly that, kinda like when your ears are filled with water
 
Jan 27, 2021 at 7:45 PM Post #214 of 295
Yeah, exactly that, kinda like when your ears are filled with water
I hate when that happens. I've had that with Stax and Audeze too. Very troubling, especially when it doesn't happen with 10 dollah headphones.
 
Jan 27, 2021 at 10:42 PM Post #215 of 295
Guys, I have an annoying issue.
I was going to try out the driver mod, went to remove the driver and one of the screws just spins, and in my infinite wisdom, I decided to remove the cup to make it easier to work on, now one of swivel screws is stuck as well.
Any tips to remote this?
I'm thinking about using a hacksaw.
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Jan 27, 2021 at 11:26 PM Post #216 of 295
Guys, I have an annoying issue.
I was going to try out the driver mod, went to remove the driver and one of the screws just spins, and in my infinite wisdom, I decided to remove the cup to make it easier to work on, now one of swivel screws is stuck as well.
Any tips to remote this?
I'm thinking about using a hacksaw.
EDIT: Don't follow any of my terrible advice and just pry the grille off with something that won't scratch it and undo the nut from the other side. Gosh, I'm dumb.

I spent 8 hours yesterday and injured my hand trying to get those blasted spinning screws out. They spin because of instead of tapping the metal cup they used smaller screws and nuts on the other side. The only problem is that whatever they used to hold the nuts on the other side of the cup came loose (at least on my pair) so only 1 came out and 5 of the 6 screws just spun.

I ended getting 4 of them out by prying a flat head screwdriver between the cup driver plate, hard. This created enough resistance to hold the nuts against the housing to provide enough friction on the nut so the screw can be removed. And thankfully the driver plate is thick enough that prying won't bend it. I would try this method first since it's the easiest.

One screw, however, had more lock tight on the nut and this method refused to create enough resistance on the nut. So I used a hacksaw to it and cut it off. However, I wouldn't recommend it because it took forever and it marred the cup badly despite wrapping the blade and the cup in masking tape and trying to be careful. If you do decide to use this method, I suggest covering the driver in masking tape to keep metal shavings from damaging the delecate speaker cone.

20210127_210127.jpg

The better option, if you have the equipment, is to drill out the head, carefully. This would leave the cup unharmed. You could pry a screwdriver between the cup and driver plate to hold the screw from spinning while drilling it out. I would have used this method but I don't have a variable speed drill, only a glorified electric screwdriver that doesn't have enough control to use this method.

Using nuts on the screws instead of just tapping the holes is a baffling design choice. This feels like a very rushed and carelessly made product for a company that has made (or rebranded) as many headphones as Blon has.

Best of luck getting the screws out! I hope it goes smoother for you than it did for me.
 
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Jan 28, 2021 at 1:44 AM Post #218 of 295
Or, pry off the cup mesh on the back. This will expose the nuts in the back and you can hold each spinning nut with pliers while you screw the bolt into it.
Oof... My wasted time, my injured hand, and I feel really dumb right about now. I just assumed the grille was glued in or attached somehow. Now I have the cup open I can clearly see its not. *facepalm*
 
Jan 28, 2021 at 9:05 AM Post #219 of 295
Or, pry off the cup mesh on the back. This will expose the nuts in the back and you can hold each spinning nut with pliers while you screw the bolt into it.
Thanks a lot mate, you're a savior! Much simpler and easier.
 
Jan 29, 2021 at 12:17 PM Post #220 of 295
Complementing @ejacobsen tip, i was able to remove the rear mesh by inserting a small L shaped allen key through the hole that the holds the cup to the headband and using it as a fulcrum, it didn't take much force for the mesh to pop out and nothing was damaged.
I reinforced the glue on the nuts as well, just to be on the safe side.
 
Jan 31, 2021 at 9:30 PM Post #221 of 295
My word, what a infuriating, interesting, baffling, and strange headphone!

I bought this fully expecting to mod it but I didn't expect it to be so uncooperative.

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The first thing I did was try it on, and, sure enough, it wouldn't extend tall enough for me so bending the headband wider to get more swivel on the cups wasn't an option for me. I expected this, however, so I had a backup plan. I used a HE-560 headband that I had bought to mod my M1060 back when they could be had for a mere $10 but I hadn't used it because I decided my M1060 headband was fine enough with some added padding on the strap so this headband sat in a box for quite a while.

But the first thing I had to do to put on the new headband was remove of the old yokes. That proved very difficult since all but one of the nuts on the screws that hold the driver to the cup came loose so the screws would just spin. I didn't realize that the grille could be removed from the outside so I ended up using a combination of prying, cursing, and hacksaw to get them out. Once I got the cups open I had to find some longer screws that would reach since this HE-560 headband's yokes are wider than the BL-30 cups. I managed to find some and used some wooden beads as spacers to keep everything snug.

Now I had the headband on I could actually start listening and seeing what they needed. The stock pads didn't work for me. They were too shallow and they had that too-close-to-a-speaker effect that others have mentioned. I tried every pad I own that would fit (over a dozen different pairs) and all of them made it sound terrible. Any sealed pad (i.e. leather) creates too much internal air resistance for the weak, oversized driver to function properly and they would sound incredibly muffled. So it was looking like velour would be the way to go but velour pads that have pleather on the underside for added bass reflections that's needed on most headphones had a similar problem to the sealed pads of keeping it too sealed. I had one pair of velour pads that had a felt-like material on the underside and they sounded okay with those but they were too shallow creating a similar problem to the stock pads.

However, at the very bottom of my box of pads I found the open cell foam pads that came off of my OKCSC ZX1 when I modded those.So I tried them. And miracles of miracles, they actually gave the driver enough air to breathe and create treble!!! The bass was also still there since the driver is so massive.

The next challenge was finding a way to attach the pads to the headphone since they were the same size as the cups the foam lip wouldn't reach the typical mounting ring. to solve this I made some mounting hooks from some paper clips and used some blue tack to mount them in the slots in the driver baffle. Thankfully, those slots are in just the right spot for the mounting lip on the pads.
0131211839.jpg

Okay, on to the next problem. The pads sounded pretty good but there was a lot of harshness around the 5khz region giving everything a nasal quality. So I dug into my front driver dapeninging materials and after hours of experimenting I found that a thin felt over the the driver worked best. Now that I had the sound to where it's listenable I felt like I could finally evaluate this headphone.

Build 4/10
While it's basically all metal construction, dumb decisions like not tapping the driver screw holes and that stupid headband design really make this mediocre. The pads are also cheap crap that don't really do any favors to the sound. The cable, however, is very nice and I will probably swap it with the cable on the HE5se. The case is okay, too, if rather generic. However, with my modded headband it doesn't fit it anymore.

Soundstage/Imaging 8/10
With the open cell foam pads this becomes a headphone with a very open, wide sound, that can image surprisingly well. It's a very "big" sound which, I'm sure, is at least partially due to the shear size of the driver. That big sound makes them ideal for movies.
I wasn't sure which section to put this in, but the driver matching is actually very, very, good. Way better than most other headphones in this price range, especially in the bass region, and even better than a lot in the $300-$500 price bracket. A pleasant surprise, to be sure.

Sound
Bass 7/10

With those open cell foam pads that I found the bass has great rumble, okay punch but really good dynamics. For example, "Mountains" by Hans Zimmer sounds awesome with these.

Mids 3/10
This is the weakest part of the headphone. It doesn't have any sweetness to the midrange and even though it's detailed and clear (good for dialog), they have very little life and come off cold and sterile.

Highs 6/10
Lots of detail here but it can be overwhelming depending on the track and mix. But when the mix is right they are very crisp and enjoyable. Again, this is only with those open cell foam pads that I found. Highs are a 0/10 with basically every other pad because there is no treble.

Overall 6.5/10 (modded) | 2/10 (unmodded)
Out of the box they do not sound like their price. There are several sub-$100 phones (even some of Blon's own offerings, like the B8) I would take over these, unmodded. But with the combination of parts that I've found for these, they are very unique. The big soundstage, good bass performance, and crispy highs make them a great, maybe even my very best, headphone for movies. Dialog is super clear and can be picked out of the mix easily and the rumble these have are great for explosions and such. Related to this, they are really good for soundtracks, their strongest genre by far. Electronic music is usually too hot in the treble and vocal-heavy genres have no soul. They would probably be pretty good for casual gaming, although this isn't something I have tried with them yet.

Do I regret my purchase? I did, at points (like when I was trying to get those flipping screws out . . .), but where they are now, they are fun and enjoyable. I will probably use them occasionally when I want that "big" sound.

Would I recommend them? Nope, not in a million years. Unless, of course, you want a project to mess around with and see what you can do with it. The driver is definitely interesting and isn't like the "standard" 40-50mm affair that's so common nowadays.

P.S. I have contacted the OKCSC store on AliExpress to see if they will sell those pads separately. I hope they will because raw foam pads like these aren't very durable. If not I might have to see if I can mod a set of GS1000 pads to work with these. Those probably won't sound the same, though, since the foam is shaped differently.
 
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Feb 1, 2021 at 3:41 AM Post #222 of 295
**** these look so good but I have too many headphones :p
Can anyone compare these who has listed to MK3 T50RP Argons on M1060/C modded open
I want both of those but I'm not sure how much room I will have until I move to my new house
 
Feb 1, 2021 at 1:49 PM Post #223 of 295
Feb 1, 2021 at 2:26 PM Post #224 of 295
**** these look so good but I have too many headphones :p
Can anyone compare these who has listed to MK3 T50RP Argons on M1060/C modded open
I want both of those but I'm not sure how much room I will have until I move to my new house

I currently have all 3 of those headphones, here is my opinion.

The BL-30, once modded, is a fun pair of headphones. It takes V shaped tuning to an extreme though (much heavier on the bass side than treble though). With a pad swap (impact pads) the BL-30 is easily the bassiest pair of headphones I've experienced. Literally feels like sticking your head into a subwoofer, but in a kind of good way. Just keep in mind that using the impact pads kills the soundstage, those pads are strictly good for enhancing the bass to absurd levels. Otherwise some hybrid pads or even the stock pads give you a really nice soundstage and great bass, but the mids are honestly rough. They did improve with burn-in, to the point now that they're enjoyable to listen to if you don't mind recessed mids.

I almost sent mine back but I'm glad I didn't. But it took a good bit of work to make them usable. I am using the Hifiman headband as shown above from theangelboy which is absolutely 100% necessary to make these headphones usable. The stock headband is so incredibly awful it's hard to believe anyone thought it was a good idea. The build as previously stated is bad, but the components themselves aren't bad. I took mine completely apart and epoxied all of the nuts in place so that I can actually take it apart as needed. I also added washers behind the 3 screws that hold the driver to the cup so that I can actually tighten them down and still get pads on/off. With all that done you can pad roll to see what you like best with them. And with the hifiman headband makes them actually enjoyable to wear (if you're in the US you can get them from Adorama, just google HE560 headband. The image on their website is incorrect though, it's the copper/black color as posted above, not the older looking silver/black one on the site).

Comparing the BL-30 to the Argons and 1060c (modded open):

Argons have a better more balanced sound but the BL-30 wins in bass and soundstage. Similar story with the 1060c as I think they sound kinda similar to the argons since they're both planars. The 1060c is wider than the argons, but not as wide as the BL-30. The 1060c has the least amount of bass, but that's not saying it's lacking at all. I like the bass on the 1060c, it's what I would consider the minimal amount of bass that I enjoy in a pair of headphones (I'm not a total bass head, but I like bass heavy stuff).

If you like modding/tinkering with things I think the BL-30 is fun to work on as long as you know what you're getting. Once they're fixed I think they sound really good for the money, but because of the issue with the mids they'll never be great. Though who knows, maybe there's a way to mod them to fix the mids, I'm not sure. Overall I think I enjoy the 1060c most out of the groups as they're the most balanced, but the BL-30 is really fun to listen to bass heavy music. I will be keeping all 3 at this moment as I feel like they all do enough things differently to warrant keeping each.
 
Feb 1, 2021 at 3:44 PM Post #225 of 295
Yes. I removed the middle white sticker then angled a small flat screw driver, to pry open, but inonly see the plastic flexing up. Ill try again.
I hope the consensus is to remove plugs. I finally got them out, but it seems mine were lodged in there a lot tighter than others. The plug on the right ear actual broke a little, so there is no turning back now~.

From my initial listen, I dont get as much of that underwater muddled sound. Now it seems a little shouty, but definitely more enjoyable. Thank you.
 

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