Black gate caps and vishay bulk foil resistors
Jun 23, 2005 at 11:39 PM Post #46 of 61
Quote:

Originally Posted by PinkFloyd
things may be different in a stepped attenuator.......... I'll never know (hate the concept of stepped attenuators)


They seem necessary for power amps since I doubt there are many good pots that can handle the load, but otherwise, why bother? Especially because of the price...but there could be something I'm missing here. Unless of course you like the heavy click feeling and you wire it up with LEDs in a circle around the volume knob that light up with each click, I've seen that done on diode fanbuses, they look really slick. But that's enough of a derail I think...
 
Jun 24, 2005 at 10:41 AM Post #48 of 61
Quote:

Originally Posted by biovizier
indeed - £500 to change one reistor in the path effectively? its hard to see how it can make a VFM difference.


It very pricey and the likeliehood you'll hear any difference is slim Nick.
 
Jun 24, 2005 at 11:23 AM Post #49 of 61
it seems likely - 80 resistors in paralell is a lot of dosh for just one component changed in the signal path. headamp will arrive monday! In a few weeks I am going to have vishays and black gates put in just to see how much difference it makes.
 
Jun 24, 2005 at 4:46 PM Post #51 of 61
Quote:

Originally Posted by PinkFloyd
EDIT: Whoops, just realised you are referring to resistors in a stepped attenuator......... I've never tried one so can't comment but I'd imagine your money could be better spent.


you haven't? ouch! there's no way I'd ever use a pot for ANYTHING again. $0.05 resistors will give even the fanciest pots a serious spanking.
biggrin.gif


Not sure how you can say that a $3.80 switch (mouser has some decent shorting 12-stepper dual deck rotaries) with about $0.60 of resistors per channel is a bad deal. Once you build that, you probably can justify the 24 step elma switches, but that's truly luxury, as it'll affect the beer budget in a more significant way than the Mouser switches.

Peter
 
Jun 24, 2005 at 5:52 PM Post #52 of 61
I never use all one make of resistor or all one make capacitor but instead use what is suited to the particual point in the circuit.

Signal path has different requirements than does the power supply path (though also audible) and critical phase/filer/compensation networks require precision parts so I use what sounds best at that point in the path for non critial and just match the resistors for L/R balance with an ommeter.non critical circuit point means performance takes precedence over absolute value and mostly you can stray from resistor value a bit but still must match the L/R if imaging is a concern.Even a 10% resistor can be matched to exacting leaft and right pairs.

Capacitors are adifferent beast and it depends if it is signal,power supply,analog or digital that dictates what I use.I don't need pretty,i don't need FOTM,and I never follow the crowd.

i look for the cheapest solution to what i need and only pay large if there are no other viable options.

BTW-I hate steppers ! They never seem to give me the exact point I want and having a hearing imbalance i like the "fine tuning" capability of dual pots
 
Jun 24, 2005 at 7:43 PM Post #53 of 61
Quote:

Originally Posted by rickcr42
I never use all one make of resistor or all one make capacitor but instead use what is suited to the particual point in the circuit.

Signal path has different requirements than does the power supply path (though also audible) and critical phase/filer/compensation networks require precision parts so I use what sounds best at that point in the path for non critial and just match the resistors for L/R balance with an ommeter.non critical circuit point means performance takes precedence over absolute value and mostly you can stray from resistor value a bit but still must match the L/R if imaging is a concern.Even a 10% resistor can be matched to exacting leaft and right pairs.

Capacitors are adifferent beast and it depends if it is signal,power supply,analog or digital that dictates what I use.I don't need pretty,i don't need FOTM,and I never follow the crowd.

i look for the cheapest solution to what i need and only pay large if there are no other viable options.

BTW-I hate steppers ! They never seem to give me the exact point I want and having a hearing imbalance i like the "fine tuning" capability of dual pots




With all the respect to your attempts to give us (inexperienced diy-ers) all the advise you can give us, I want to ask you to make some more specific remarks as to choosing from different brands/specs for resistors or capacitors when you have to make specific decisions in your own buildingprojects.

I - and that is only my own opinion - would like to see more specific advise on where to use what kind of brand/spec component in the circuit. What are your prime arguments when choosing components in a psu or different places in amp configurations.

I am not in a position to experiment all the possibilities for myself, so I have to take into account the experiences of experts. You are hopefully one of them.

Intellectually, I fully understand your statements (based on your broad expierence) about 'I do not use the same brand at any point in the same circuit'. That kind of opinion seems very logical to me. Compare it with use of different kind of tyre's in auto-rallies in different race circumstances.

But now the queston arises 'what to use at what point in a audio circuit' (from psu to output)? I am not so interested in boutique solutions, but more in practical, economical/sonical relevant and electronical correct solutions. When the basics qualitatively are right than the finetuning can take place, but in my opinion that is only a process quite some time after you have build and listen to the basic circuit.

May be you could give us some more concrete guidelines for that basic solution. Untill now I have only found mixed opinions on this and other fora about the topic of choosing components.

It must be possible to give a more profound basic choice table for choosing resistors/capacitors in relation to specific circuitpoints. In my opinion that will give a quality basis for everyone to start with.

When that basis is given, than in the sidelines there will always be discussion on the use of specific brands/boutique etc.

In my opinion, than the price/quality question is also put into another perspective. Pricey components are than mostly put into the process of 'diminishing of soundprofits'.

Greetings.
 
Oct 18, 2005 at 3:59 PM Post #55 of 61
Quote:

Originally Posted by skyskraper
oh sorry, i need to go find some black gates and holco's for a cmoy then. will that redeem my membership?
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I built one just to see what it would sound like. It was much better than one constructed with ratshack parts but a stock MINT beat it out
 
Oct 18, 2005 at 6:25 PM Post #56 of 61
I would take a serious look at what Borbely Audio is using and where a given type of component is used. Borbely also recommends to upgrade the signal path resistors to Caddock MK132s as a first (cheap) upgrade. Best is of course to upgrade all resistors but that costs. B. uses ELNA Cerafines and Nichicon as standard caps and has BGs as an upgrade path.

For me the best resistors when it comes to transparency and neutrality are the nude S102s from Texas Components. Percy Audio sells these.

If you have a mediocre PS, I would definitevely upgrade to a better PS. Preferrably a dual mono PS from the wall outlet to the output.

Here are some pics of a Borbely Audio Superbuffer2 with both Caddock and Dale resitors, and BGs:

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Sigurd
 
Oct 19, 2005 at 2:48 AM Post #59 of 61

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