Bicycle-Fi!
Mar 25, 2010 at 11:17 PM Post #931 of 4,419
Quote:

Originally Posted by Coop /img/forum/go_quote.gif
For starters, check cassette, chainrings & chain for wear and if they're worn out, replace them. If they're good, go to the next step.

Second, adjust your derailleurs properly (no use when everything is worn out, so check that first). How to adjust them can usually be found in the manual, if you don't have one, check the website of the derailleurs manufacturer. Or just spend a little money and have your local bike shop take care of this, it isn't hard to do yourself, but it's a pretty precise job and can get pretty annoying.

If that doesn't help, you can take more extreme action, fit a chainguide or jumpstop, but this shouldn't be needed for a roadbike.



lol, I kinda omitted the obvious one and jumped to drastic measures there. Given that you said it comes off 3/4 of the time, adjustment seems pretty likely.
 
Mar 26, 2010 at 9:35 PM Post #932 of 4,419
Quote:

Originally Posted by TrumpOrMonkey /img/forum/go_quote.gif
This is my bike, except I don't have the carrier on the back, it's nice and reliable, very heavy but I don't race to get everywhere on my bike, it's just for cruising around.

068M0048_large.jpg



is that an Atlas?

i am thinking of getting one. any bad things about it?
 
Mar 26, 2010 at 10:19 PM Post #933 of 4,419
Quote:

Originally Posted by DeusEx /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Nice. How much does a custom Steelman cost again?


About $2450 now.

However, I was lucky enough to find this on ebay for $700. It was sold through a liquidator for FedEX that sells damaged merchandise. The downtube was slightly scratched and the head tube had a flat section. Knowing steel and seeing the damage I knew it could be hammered out.

I took it to Brent after emailing him for a repair quote. He debated replying to me because he hoped to never see that frame again. Apparently the local delivery guy dropped off the painted frame in the rain and it was damaged outside the shop. It was a frame he had built for himself. Brent got an insurance payment for it and the delivery company sold the frame.

The sad thing is that it's about half a size too big so I may sell the frame. But I've said that for the last few years. It's too nice to let go.
 
Mar 27, 2010 at 1:27 AM Post #934 of 4,419
this is a picture of me on a ride around town last fall. Its a khs xc204 with azonic outlaw wheels and panaracer dh 2.3 tires. Fun heavy race bike
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Mar 27, 2010 at 2:01 AM Post #935 of 4,419
...be careful there friend
 
Mar 27, 2010 at 2:52 AM Post #936 of 4,419
ehh, i could survive the 150' drop off the rock im standing on... Lots of rock outcrop here in Duluth! Duluth complex is a really intriguing strat package.
 
Mar 28, 2010 at 1:55 AM Post #938 of 4,419
Quote:

Originally Posted by scott2055 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Looks familiar...
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Cervelos are absolutely beautiful. I could never ever justify the cost though, even if I rode every day I just don't see the need. Maybe someday.
 
Mar 30, 2010 at 7:35 PM Post #939 of 4,419
I just got a good deal on a "new" '09 Rock Shox Tora 318 SE (spec'd for Performance Bike apparently - 100mm Solo Air, "Motion Control" damping/compression, lockout, adj. rebound, etc.) as a first fork upgrade for my bike. Thoughts?

Also, what's a reasonable price to have it installed? Most places I've called around here are charging $40-$60 to install it.. Is this standard?
 
Mar 30, 2010 at 10:57 PM Post #941 of 4,419
Awesome, I love classic Bridgestones.
 
Mar 31, 2010 at 6:43 AM Post #943 of 4,419
Quote:

Originally Posted by intoflatlines /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I just got a good deal on a "new" '09 Rock Shox Tora 318 SE (spec'd for Performance Bike apparently - 100mm Solo Air, "Motion Control" damping/compression, lockout, adj. rebound, etc.) as a first fork upgrade for my bike. Thoughts?

Also, what's a reasonable price to have it installed? Most places I've called around here are charging $40-$60 to install it.. Is this standard?




The Tora is a very decent fork indeed - basically a Reba with steel stanchions. The main thing with any suspension fork is compatibility with your bike. What sort of bike have you got? What length fork does it have on it now?

Fitting a fork is pretty straightforward, if you have some tools and some mechanical ability you can certainly do it yourself. Check out the Park Tool site for instructions.

Another though is when you say 'new' - does that mean it has been fitted to another bike? Check that the steerer is going to be long enough for you. If what it was fitted to previously has a shorter head tube than your bike it could easily be too short.
 
Mar 31, 2010 at 7:37 AM Post #944 of 4,419
Quote:

Originally Posted by singular /img/forum/go_quote.gif
The Tora is a very decent fork indeed - basically a Reba with steel stanchions. The main thing with any suspension fork is compatibility with your bike. What sort of bike have you got? What length fork does it have on it now?


It's currently on a 2000 GT Aggressor (great frame and fits me perfectly). I compared the forks and it looks like the Tora might be a centimeter or less longer than the original fork (some POS Suntour) from stanchions(?) to the bottom of the steerer tube. I don't think this will matter much, do you? They both are 1 1/8 threadless.

Quote:

Fitting a fork is pretty straightforward, if you have some tools and some mechanical ability you can certainly do it yourself. Check out the Park Tool site for instructions.


Thanks! I actually found a local shop that will do it while I wait for $25. I'm taking it in Wednesday morning and I'm going to ride it later, hopefully. It's supposed to be in the mid 70's and sunny!

Quote:

Another though is when you say 'new' - does that mean it has been fitted to another bike? Check that the steerer is going to be long enough for you. If what it was fitted to previously has a shorter head tube than your bike it could easily be too short.


I said "new" because it is new in the box w/manual from Performance with a full length steerer. It's just that it was on clearance because it's a year or so old. Plus I'm not sure if a cut steerer tube would be a big deal for me unless it is very very short, I ride a small frame as it is!

I'm pretty excited to get it installed and go riding tomorrow. Other than sag/psi is there anything basic that I should set (or have the shop check)?
 
Mar 31, 2010 at 8:33 AM Post #945 of 4,419
Quote:

It's currently on a 2000 GT Aggressor (great frame and fits me perfectly). I compared the forks and it looks like the Tora might be a centimeter or less longer than the original fork (some POS Suntour) from stanchions(?) to the bottom of the steerer tube. I don't think this will matter much, do you? They both are 1 1/8 threadless.


Hmmm, a 2000 era bike is likely to be designed for an 80mm fork max, possibly even 60. The measurement to compare is from the centre of the wheel axle to the bottom of the crown race (where the lower bearing seats on the fork). If it is more than an inch I would think twice about fitting it. This would slacken the bike quite a bit and change how it handles quite dramatically. The bike which fits you perfectly now no longer will.

Set the air pressure at the mfrs recommendation for your weight and take it from there by feel. I'm guessing the 'solo air' means there is no negative spring ('specced for Performance' I suspect means simpler and cheaper for them...) so you don't need to worry about that. Basic forks lack the adjustability of better forks, so you can just get the right pressure, set the rebound damping to a level that feels right, then go ride it. Perhaps ask the shop if the can help you get the initial settings close, then tinker from there.
 

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