What you mean 2v? volts?
What`s source would have 2v? I use Asus Xonar d2x and read here:
http://sound-cards-review.toptenreviews.com/asus-xonar-d2x-review.html
The D2X is quite impressive when it comes to overall performance. Signal-to-noise ratios (SNRs) give us a ballpark figure of how quality the sound is and both the output and input SNRs are around 118 dB which is quite impressive. There is just a pinch more harmonic distortion compared to the HT Omega's Claro Plus+ but since it's only 0.0001%, it's safe to say that you probably can't tell the difference. Both sound cards have 2 voltage regulator modules to keep the power flow in check where it's supposed to be.
So would that be enough for Y Splitting?
2v = Sony Redbook (CD Audio) standard output. By comparison for example an iPod puts out around 1.2v through its lineout; HRT DACs make 2.25v. Take note not all CD/PCM sources are rated at 2v, or output at that fixed voltage. Some Denons are at 1.8v, but I can't remember if they're actually just at a fixed 1.8v or they just state 1.8v and the lower distortion % at that level but still actually make 2v (note : even if it's the latter it's not like they were covering up for a really distorted signal at 2v).
I suppose the soundcard is making 2v, but the other problem is the volume control. I'm not really into computer audio beyond using one as a digital transport, or now, using them with IEMs,* but depending on the implementation of the volume control you might be restricting the bits on the recording. If however the souncard has a volume control separate from Windows', then I'd hazard a guess it
probably works on a hardware level (even with digital controls).
*Realtek has really improved - my 2008 Vaio was several miles better driving IEMs than my 2004 Compaq, but now my current Acer Aspire sounds like an iPod Touch next to the old Vaio that's more like one of those pre-smartphone music phones; same goes for a few Ultrabooks I've tried (most likely they have the same chip)
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And i`m VERY happy how they sound from one NAD amp (was bi-wired with 1 amp since i bought). It was more than enough power. Just thought, speakers can handle 40-175watts 6ohms, (and my amp is 80watts 8ohm = 120watts 6ohms) no? So wonder how speakers would sound with max power + i will have extra power if i need it in future.
If you're happy with one amp, chances are adding another
might not make any more improvements. But still, you already have the amp, so by all means try it.
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I`m OLD thinking, and i believe that
older bigger amp`s are better than
new smaller at same price point. So i will stick with old stuff now
That depends. It was more true with older discrete Class A, or even Class A/B, standard size amplifiers compared to the later chip amps,* or even discrete amps, that made too many compromises for size and heat management. By now however technology has developed well enough, Class D or even A/B.
One of the more obvious transitions from "old school" to "too many trade-offs new stuff" was in car audio. Back in the late 90s American "iron" really ruled - if it wasn't a Soundstream 12wpc Class A, it's an RF or MTX with a lot of Class A bias despite being actually A/B. The Soundstreams got really hot, but the RFs really got a rep for heat inefficiency because of the heatsink design that made them look like a teflon grill, so over here in the Philippines we called these older RFs "BBQ Grills" and the running joke was that you can fry an egg on it. I listened to a set-up in a (non-US/UK) Ford SUV with A/C vents for the third row seats, and he creatively positioned the amp where the A/C can cool them. If you put your hand near the vent it was ice cold; touch the amps and they're still well above lukewarm. So was the sound - guitars and percussion had a lot of body on these "old school" amps compared to the newer, entry-level amps (like MTXs Road Thunder or Alpine's MRP). Unfortunately with American brands competing for mass production and price, the European brands were able to penetrate the market - even Focal got into the game now. It's just great some American brands came out with affordable, old-school style amps, like Digital Designs. I've been considering getting a DLS Class D five channel amp to simplify my system but I can't bear to let go of my DD C4.1, despite having one channel less at double the size.
*The commercial opamp-driven amps are nothing like the LM3886 kit gainclones, but that's also how opamps got a bad rep. I wouldn't have believed all the hype about Meier amps if I didn't get to hear one, and it took me a year to finally locate another one.
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Plus i do like a lot NAD c352 headphone 220ohm output. As far i know newer models (NAD) does not have that powerful headphone out.
You sure about those figures? 220ohm seems high; the old auxilliary headphone output standard is 120ohm; that could be 220mW output power. My NAD304 was "OK" with my HD600 but totally sucked with a Grado SR225. Generally your output impedance should be lower than the headphone's, and preferably, it should be 1/8 or 1/10 of it, which is why many dedicated headphone amp designs are now at less than 5ohm impedance. I've no idea what the rationale is behind 120ohms though.
