Better Alternative from Canare StarQuad for HD580?
Jan 10, 2007 at 6:36 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 17

rayq

Head-Fier
Joined
Jul 22, 2004
Posts
68
Likes
10
Hi, I am planning to recable my HD580 and I've read that Canare star quad is not a good performer for headphone cable. Does anyone know the next step up from Canare star quad? Also, which is a better plug between Canare F16 and Neutrik NP3C-B (http://www.redco.com/shopexd.asp?id=212)? I did try to do a search but I didn't get a solid answer :frowning2:.

BTW, I have successfully opened up the stock Senn. connectors last night from a used HD580 cable acquired from here, slowly using the utility knife. Man, they were really PITA. Took me more than an hour. I'll try to suck (not with my mouth, of course)/clean up the existing solder later tonight. I'll post some pictures if I have chance.

Thanks for any input.

Ray
 
Jan 10, 2007 at 6:45 PM Post #2 of 17
That is because there is no solid answer, it's simply a matter of preference.
And as long as you don't do something silly like try to use the sheild as a ground StarQuad works OK but SPC helps brighten up those cans quite a bit.
 
Jan 10, 2007 at 10:22 PM Post #3 of 17
The microphonics of Canare cable are great though, i usually come back to mine because it is the least noisy and most comfy cable after stock.
 
Jan 11, 2007 at 3:07 AM Post #4 of 17
Try mogami quad neglex copper, can be found at markertek.com
 
Jan 11, 2007 at 3:40 AM Post #5 of 17
Redco carries Mogami as well here. Nice people to deal with (though I haven't dealt with Markertek and I'm sure they are really good as well). That said, I'll stay out of cable issues...
 
Jan 11, 2007 at 4:32 PM Post #6 of 17
Thanks for all responses. But how about the 1/4" plug, Canare F16 or Neutrik NP3C-B? Any advice?
 
Jan 11, 2007 at 6:08 PM Post #7 of 17
Quote:

Originally Posted by rayq /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Thanks for all responses. But how about the 1/4" plug, Canare F16 or Neutrik NP3C-B? Any advice?


My opinion is that once you get beyond cheap, no-name crap plugs it should make no difference. So pick the one you want and don't look back.
 
Jan 11, 2007 at 6:43 PM Post #8 of 17
Quote:

Originally Posted by MisterX /img/forum/go_quote.gif
That is because there is no solid answer, it's simply a matter of preference.
And as long as you don't do something silly like try to use the sheild as a ground StarQuad works OK but SPC helps brighten up those cans quite a bit.



not to sound ingonorant, but are you also saying that the shield should not be grounded?
 
Jan 11, 2007 at 6:46 PM Post #9 of 17
In response to the OP, I have used the Neutrik plug that you are wondering about with good results. Only thing I would advise about is that the openning for the cable is kinda small; not that it won't fit, just that you'll have to work it through a bit. The canare plugs are supposed to be excellent as well, so I would say flip a coin and go from there
tongue.gif
 
Jan 13, 2007 at 11:31 PM Post #10 of 17
Quote:

Originally Posted by SoundGoon /img/forum/go_quote.gif
not to sound ingonorant, but are you also saying that the shield should not be grounded?


I believe he's saying not to use the shield braid in place of a dedicated wire as ground. Which makes sense, as I did this before and it sounded crap (overly warm sound, with little life in it).

Cheers!
 
Jun 13, 2007 at 12:49 PM Post #11 of 17
reviving an old thread... I was thinking of recabling my DT880's with the 2534 neglex cable. I'm just wondering a few things, and hope some of you can help;
  • how much and in which ways would 2534 change the cans' sound?
  • are there any larger bandwidth cables as an alternative (larger gauge wire?)?
  • will the larger bandwidth really help?

thanks.
 
Jun 13, 2007 at 1:06 PM Post #12 of 17
Quote:

Originally Posted by omendelovitz /img/forum/go_quote.gif
reviving an old thread... I was thinking of recabling my DT880's with the 2534 neglex cable. I'm just wondering a few things, and hope some of you can help;
  • how much and in which ways would 2534 change the cans' sound?
  • are there any larger bandwidth cables as an alternative (larger gauge wire?)?
  • will the larger bandwidth really help?

thanks.



1. I recabled the aging cable on my K340 with a cryo-treated Neglex 2534 and to be very honest I did not detect much of a difference. The re-screen mod, circuit bypass mod and internal damping mod play a much bigger and more audible role. It's nice to know though that the wires I'm using is OFC and free from the oxidation that has likely plagued the old stock cable.

2. Try SPC or even silver. The silver(ing) has an audible effect on the sound.

3. It's always nice to know your cable will have the additional 'headroom' when things get tough. Practically-speaking though, it's hard to say since headphone cables carry very small level of current -even small-diameter wires will be more than capable of transmitting them-.

Cheers!
 
Jun 13, 2007 at 1:27 PM Post #13 of 17
Quote:

Originally Posted by Zorander /img/forum/go_quote.gif
1. I recabled the aging cable on my K340 with a cryo-treated Neglex 2534 and to be very honest I did not detect much of a difference. The re-screen mod, circuit bypass mod and internal damping mod play a much bigger and more audible role. It's nice to know though that the wires I'm using is OFC and free from the oxidation that has likely plagued the old stock cable.

2. Try SPC or even silver. The silver(ing) has an audible effect on the sound.

3. It's always nice to know your cable will have the additional 'headroom' when things get tough. Practically-speaking though, it's hard to say since headphone cables carry very small level of current -even small-diameter wires will be more than capable of transmitting them-.

Cheers!



Thanks and forgive my ignorance, but:
  • what is SPC?
  • re-screen mod?
  • damping mod? is this the same as the blue tack mod used for Grados? I've been doing that for some time now and have lots of dynamat Xtreme left for damping...I assume I should apply the damping to the rear centre of the driver?
  • circuit bypass mod? Is this the one Jazz used with the resistors/capacitors added to the signal path as an adapter?
  • good point about the wire gauge. I'm just wondering what the optimal size wire is for about 100 mA of current...
 
Jun 13, 2007 at 7:18 PM Post #14 of 17
Maybe recabling with microphone cable isnt the best route, no? SPC is silver plated copper. Rescreen mod is replacing the backs of the 580's with the screens from say a 600 or 650. Damping mod is applying some audio dampening material to the inside of the ear cups. Dont know the circuit bypass mod yet. Optimal wire gauge for a 580 is anything from say 28 awg to 24 awg. 22 may be pushing the flexibility envelope, especially if its solid core conductor.
 
Jun 13, 2007 at 9:03 PM Post #15 of 17
Quote:

Originally Posted by omendelovitz /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Thanks and forgive my ignorance, but:
  • what is SPC?
  • re-screen mod?
  • damping mod? is this the same as the blue tack mod used for Grados? I've been doing that for some time now and have lots of dynamat Xtreme left for damping...I assume I should apply the damping to the rear centre of the driver?
  • circuit bypass mod? Is this the one Jazz used with the resistors/capacitors added to the signal path as an adapter?
  • good point about the wire gauge. I'm just wondering what the optimal size wire is for about 100 mA of current...



SPC is indeed silver-plated copper. You can get it cheap on Ebay (look for a seller 'Navship'). You have to get your own sleeving though.

The other mods I mentioned applied to the K340 I also mentioned. The internal damping mod is more beneficial for a closed can, rather than an open one like the HD-580. The circuit bypass mod is exclusive to the K340.

The recscreen mod is frequently done on Senns and you may want to give it a shot. On wire size, don't go too big. Any bigger than 22AWG is just overkill and results in stiff cable IMO.

Cheers!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top