best solder for DIY
Aug 17, 2011 at 10:03 PM Post #16 of 26
Please make sure not to use an acid based flux. I just finished a whole Y1 and y2 build using just acid flux because it was my first project and I didnt know better. I literally searched for liquid flux on amazon and picked the first thing. I still have no idea what a proper brand/product number is for electronic soldering.

You might really like tacky paste flux because it holds your components in place for you, plus you barely need any of it as when it melts it is nice and concentrated in that area you are soldering. For solder, i used some 63/37 rosin core solder from radioshack because I didnt realize how thick the other junk i bought was.
 
Aug 18, 2011 at 1:46 AM Post #17 of 26
I use rhodium-gold-silver eutectic solder only. Each metal is at 5N purity before being mixed in individually determined proportions to ensure the mixture is truly at the eutectic point for each batch. The rosin for the flux is extracted from only the rarest trees, and preserved in cryogenic vessels before being manufactured in a hermetically sealed facility into the solder wire. Then the entire roll is treated in a liquid helium bath, and demagnetized. Then each roll is winded around ERS paper, before being packaged in a mahogany box lined with platinum mesh, and the whole thing sealed in liquid titanium. It's ultra exclusive, and you've probably never heard of it.
 
Here's the link.
 
Aug 18, 2011 at 1:54 AM Post #18 of 26
Cardas Quad is where it's all at.  Or WBT Silver.
 
Aug 18, 2011 at 10:24 PM Post #19 of 26


Quote:
I use rhodium-gold-silver eutectic solder only. Each metal is at 5N purity before being mixed in individually determined proportions to ensure the mixture is truly at the eutectic point for each batch. The rosin for the flux is extracted from only the rarest trees, and preserved in cryogenic vessels before being manufactured in a hermetically sealed facility into the solder wire. Then the entire roll is treated in a liquid helium bath, and demagnetized. Then each roll is winded around ERS paper, before being packaged in a mahogany box lined with platinum mesh, and the whole thing sealed in liquid titanium. It's ultra exclusive, and you've probably never heard of it.
 
Here's the link.

 
Now THAT'S the kind!! Gotta get me some of that!
 
wink_face.gif

 

 
 
 
Aug 19, 2011 at 10:31 AM Post #21 of 26


Quote:
I use rhodium-gold-silver eutectic solder only. Each metal is at 5N purity before being mixed in individually determined proportions to ensure the mixture is truly at the eutectic point for each batch. The rosin for the flux is extracted from only the rarest trees, and preserved in cryogenic vessels before being manufactured in a hermetically sealed facility into the solder wire. Then the entire roll is treated in a liquid helium bath, and demagnetized. Then each roll is winded around ERS paper, before being packaged in a mahogany box lined with platinum mesh, and the whole thing sealed in liquid titanium. It's ultra exclusive, and you've probably never heard of it.
 
Here's the link.


Awesome :D
 
 
Aug 19, 2011 at 1:16 PM Post #22 of 26
^^ Guys, this is definitely not RGS eutectic.  You can't get it on the internet, and that's all I can comfortably say about it.  Though really this stuff at the other end of the link should work fine.
 
Admittedly, my RGS eutectic did make my steel cables sound like angels were tonguing my ears gently.  Tin/lead solder, by contrast, just sounds like one or more people playing instruments, or singing, or whatever they were doing at the time of recording.  But who wants that?
 
Aug 19, 2011 at 1:28 PM Post #23 of 26
I would say steer clear of silver solder if you don't already have soldering skills and/or a good soldering station with variable temp. It has a higher melting point=more heat/more stress on parts especially sensitive diodes.
I just use the 60/40 stuff from rad shack.
 
Aug 19, 2011 at 2:53 PM Post #25 of 26


Quote:
I would say steer clear of silver solder if you don't already have soldering skills and/or a good soldering station with variable temp. It has a higher melting point=more heat/more stress on parts especially sensitive diodes.
I just use the 60/40 stuff from rad shack.


Personally, I can't think of any reason to use a silver-bearing solder for regular electronics work.
 
se
 
 
 
 
Aug 19, 2011 at 3:26 PM Post #26 of 26


Quote:
Personally, I can't think of any reason to use a silver-bearing solder for regular electronics work.
 
se
 
 
 



Nope. Me either Steve. I know a few people that like it, but I don't really see a reason to use it.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top