Best dynamic phone/cable combo to replace my dead R-10's
Aug 16, 2008 at 7:23 PM Post #46 of 50
Quote:

Originally Posted by pabbi1 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Yes, in fact I am working on elm cups (close genus to what was used on the R-10), where the L3000 (another bass heavyweight) used cherry and the DX1000 uses walnut. I am noticing the harder woods seem to accentuate bass, so perhaps the softer, more sound resonant wood will calm the bass - without affecting the other registers.

It also looks like walnut is used everywhere except the sound chamber, where there is a tube of a lighter hard wood (alder, maple, or cherry are my guesses, due to the grain renderings in the marketing images) which is the primary sound wood, so who knows? Looks like the primary issue was machineability, though these are traditional sound woods in guitars and headphones.

So, yes, we'll see.



now that is something we are all looking forward to.are you looking to replicate the R10 with the CD3000 housing, but wooden cups? or am i mistaken?
 
Aug 16, 2008 at 7:25 PM Post #47 of 50
Hirsch: Thanks, I've e-mailed Audio Advancements for help.
 
Aug 16, 2008 at 8:02 PM Post #48 of 50
Quote:

Originally Posted by pabbi1 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Oops - I am just looking at using the drivers, and a CD3000 housing. At least on this go round.


I see... thanks for replying. Let us know about the results
smily_headphones1.gif


Rgrds
 
Aug 17, 2008 at 7:08 AM Post #49 of 50
Quote:

Originally Posted by G-man /img/forum/go_quote.gif
now that is something we are all looking forward to.are you looking to replicate the R10 with the CD3000 housing, but wooden cups? or am i mistaken?


Precisely - I am intrigued by the JVC drivers as they are direct mount, but think walnut is the entirely wrong material for musical resonance (MY opinion), so from what I have seen of the R-10 interior, I am making some practical machining decisions - one being to NOT hollow out the entire cavern, and simply put another cap with sound holes to hold the driver.

If this doesn't yield acceptable results, I have an additional slab of Siberian elm, 35 years old, grown in a cold climate to yield smaller tight rings.

So, here is the question to all: What drivers should I try? The JVC is on as it is direct mount (a really good thing, IMHO), the CD3k drivers, and a set of W100 drivers (some of my favorite closed can drivers). Not sure I wouldn't have to make another set of housings for other drivers, but what the heck? It's only time, and cheap therapy for me.

The goal is to approach R-10. Oh, and balanced only - nothing else is on my radar. Sorry, a REALLY STRONG personal bias.

Interior
Exterior - still a lot of hand work to do.

Edit: Does anyone know the R-10 finish? I am assuming oil, and what I will be using regardless - 10 or so coats.
 
Aug 17, 2008 at 11:06 AM Post #50 of 50
Quote:

Originally Posted by Hirsch /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I believe that Hart at Audio Advancements was the North American importer for the R10. If you have not contacted him, you might want to try that route in attempting a repair. He may well have contacts in Japan who can do the repair. North American Sony won't have a clue. I had one R10 that had a bad driver. Since that one was imported through EIFL, I was able to send it back to Koji and he arranged the repair. That was still under warranty, though. Still, he may have contacts in Sony Japan that can do the repair. Expect a long delay in any repair sent to Sony Japan, though, if they'll do it at all.


Yeah, I bought my R10's from Koji.
smily_headphones1.gif


-Ed
 

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