>>Best CDR Blanks?
This is a complicated question. As pointed out earlier, certain CDRs may work better with your particular writer and/or CD playback equipment than others. It is best to try out a few brands in small quantities, if possible.
Additionally, you need to consider the archival longevity of the CDRs that you burn. Interestingly, it is quite possible to copy an audio CD to a CDR and end up with a disc that has a lower bit error rate (BER) than the original and has a greater longevity. This is possible because of the error correcting codes built into the CDs digital audio data. It is a well documented fact that that "pressed" CDs typically have BERs that are significantly higher than found on high-quality CDRs. The BER is, of course, unimportant unless it gets to the point where it overcomes the ability of the error correcting codes to correct the error.
Mitsui says that the patented "Phthalocyanine" dye used in their CDRs is much more stable than than the dye used other CDRs and thus have a greater longevity. They also claim that their discs are constructed to higher physical tolerances than other CDRs. YMMV
You should note that CDRWs can easily become corrupted in just a few weeks/months. They are NOT recommended for any kind of long term storage. I use them only as temporary scratch discs to test various disc layouts.
My recommendation is that you only use the very expensive "archival" discs for irreplaceable data, such a your digital photographs of your once-in-a-lifetime trip to kilamanjaro. For music CDs that can be replaced or reduplicated I simply use name-brand CDRs that work well with my equipment.
-Z