[k4syx]

haha i was just curious, i dont want to cut up my headphones i like them too much.

Well you dont need to cut them literally

 

[jonathane40]

haha i was just curious, i dont want to cut up my headphones i like them too much.

Peterek can mod these to allow them to connect to any balanced headphone. I think he replaces the cabling inside as well as the plug. I haven’t sent mine in yet because I’m not sure if there will be much improvement using the H6 with a balanced connection.

 

[Tsukuyomi]

yeah im not too sure if there will also be an improvement in sound if they go balance...

 

[k4syx]

Well every other headphone that I've made balanced was faster and had better separation and imaging. These were not night and day changes of course, but it was always well worth the effort.

And I don't even count the fun of doing it

 

[kukkurovaca]

In principle, most improvements one might find from going balanced would also be provided by going to a more powerful single-ended source. The main thing that wouldn't apply to is a slight tweak to the soundstage owing to the increased channel separation. Other differences will I think usually be source-specific. (E.g., if the balanced output on a partcular device happens to have a different output impedance, more or less noise floor, etc.)

 

[Tsukuyomi]

I'm actually kinda sad that B&O wont be making a H6 Gen 3, i think they want to push more the H9i segment for "wireless future" for their headphones. i might upgrade to the H9i but only because there is still a 3.5mm jack for it and i dont need to use them portable.

 

[k4syx]

In principle, most improvements one might find from going balanced would also be provided by going to a more powerful single-ended source. The main thing that wouldn't apply to is a slight tweak to the soundstage owing to the increased channel separation. Other differences will I think usually be source-specific. (E.g., if the balanced output on a partcular device happens to have a different output impedance, more or less noise floor, etc.)

Yes, 100% true. Fully balanced end to end setup has best spatiality.

You are right about good single ended having same other good traits of balanced, though in my experience going balanced with mediocre (or at least not TOTL amp) will be a good deal cheaper than same quality SE.

It just seems to be easier and thus cheaper to design more or less clean mono amp and put two of them in one case than working out all of the quirks of good stereo design.

Anyway, since I'm doing it mostly for the fun of it (as my main setup is custom Stax rig) I always try to get most from my dynamics by going balanced + silver plated litz, when possible.

If anyone would like to start balanced adventure, I highly recommend Sabaj DA-3 as a starting point. It is balanced twin ES9018 + SE and fully balanced outputs for a price of bag of peanuts (big one)

 

[Mhog55]

BTW, has anyone tried this one? It's certainly good looking:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XKVR2D3

I have a similar cable. It's really nice, but I'm not convinced that plug will work with the H6. Looks like the diameter may be too large

 

[Dexter22]

You'd have to cut common signal (ground, "-", sleeve, whatever) between cups. And then your cable shoud have one channel (left) on the tip of one of the connectors, and second (right) on the ring of the other one. And sleeves should be then connected to relevant L- and L+ in 2.5mm connector.

So the cable is not a problem, unless you'd like to buy COTS one. The problem is to cut this connection in smart (and reversible, or in my case switcheable) way

what I think best would be is to just desolder the wire which does across the band. So, now you got two different drivers connected to two 3.5mm jacks on either ends, Then, use two 3.5mm plugs on either side - on one side connect to ground and the edge tip. and the other side connect the midffel tip and its ground. no need of any cutting. like i said before only the wire running across must be isolated.at both ends of the 3.5mm jacks by simple desoldering.

 

[Dexter22]

what I think best would be is to just desolder the wire which does across the band. So, now you got two different drivers connected to two 3.5mm jacks on either ends, Then, use two 3.5mm plugs on either side - on one side connect to ground and the edge tip. and the other side connect the midffel tip and its ground. no need of any cutting. like i said before only the wire running across must be isolated.at both ends of the 3.5mm jacks by simple desoldering.

I just ordered two smaller 3.5mm pins which would fit for the h6s. I am trying to make a cable out of viablue epc4. will post the impresssions after its done some time next week.

 

[k4syx]

what I think best would be is to just desolder the wire which does across the band. So, now you got two different drivers connected to two 3.5mm jacks on either ends, Then, use two 3.5mm plugs on either side - on one side connect to ground and the edge tip. and the other side connect the midffel tip and its ground. no need of any cutting. like i said before only the wire running across must be isolated.at both ends of the 3.5mm jacks by simple desoldering.

I didn't mean that I will literally CUT the wiring or tracks or anything else
I want to cut the connection, but of course in civilized way and I'd like to place a bi-stable microswitch that would connect the line back, thus making them both SE and balanced - on demand

Anyway, this gets into my "stuff to do later" queue, because I got seriously biten by "classic tape decks" bug
I've just finished restoring Pioneer CT-W706DR and this baby plays soooo nice, that another one (CT-S550S) is right on its way to my lair

 

[Dexter22]

I didn't mean that I will literally CUT the wiring or tracks or anything else
I want to cut the connection, but of course in civilized way and I'd like to place a bi-stable microswitch that would connect the line back, thus making them both SE and balanced - on demand

Anyway, this gets into my "stuff to do later" queue, because I got seriously biten by "classic tape decks" bug
I've just finished restoring Pioneer CT-W706DR and this baby plays soooo nice, that another one (CT-S550S) is right on its way to my lair

I have tried opening it. It looked easy

 

[bcaulf17]

https://soundsheavenly.com/bo-play/...-h4-h6-h7-h8-headphones-with-metal-plugs.html

Has anyone ever tried this cable?

 

[Dexter22]

https://soundsheavenly.com/bo-play/...-h4-h6-h7-h8-headphones-with-metal-plugs.html

Has anyone ever tried this cable?

If you are I Germany you can get it cheaper Hama AluLine Verbindungskabel für Apple iPhone, stereo, 0,5 m https://www.amazon.de/dp/B003581ISM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9QdcCbY3X9S9G

 

[Dexter22]

Okay, I just did some quick and lazy a/b comparisons with my iPhone SE as the source and four amps: Walnut F1 (w/Muses02 opamp), Little Bear B4 (w/Burson V5i opamp), ALO CDM (Sonotone tubes), Phatlab Phantasy. Volume matched by ear, not scientific at all. Inexpensive replacement cable on the H6 (not b/c there's anything wrong with the stock one, but some amps don't like the TRRS wiring for the mic). Rapha earpads. My H6 is a gen 2.

• Walnut F1: bit more bass impact
• Little Bear B4: Very noisy, bad combo. (I think I just have a particularly bad unit.)
• The ALO CDM introduces a wee bit of tubiness. This comparison has the CDM at a bit of a disadvantage because feeding it the iPhone signal at 50%ish means I have to crank the CDM almost all the way up on high gain to volume match. I want to say that I can hear the CDM's slightly more open sound, especially when I've got the volume raised on the input. But it's hard to judge b/c volume's not matched at that point.
• The Phatlab Phantasy on low impedance introduces a bit more tubiness, and there's a bit less subbass than with the solid state F1 or the hybrid tube amps. Setting the impedance switch to high significantly increases the stereotypical tubiness (warm/romantic/technical performance goes out the window) but also bear in mind that at this point we're also introducing a significant impedance mismatch, probably. Also, the Phantasy does some weird soundtage stuff on high impedance mood, it's just generally an odd device.

My overall sense is: the H6 sounds great with everything, and differences between the amps and the iPhone are slight. That's not necessarily here or there, b/c differences between amps should be slight, even on more revealing headphones. And I can see the benefit of experimenting with amps if you want to tweak the bass. I would be suspicious of a night and day difference between amplified and unamplified performance, though.

But your mileage will doubtless vary, and I'm really not the most technical listener.

Also: there's really no overstsating how much better a nice volume knob is than the volume controls on an iPhone. This is, arguably, the biggest benefit to amping these headphones ; )

Unless you try mojo ing the h6. to my ears, it's too much different from my galaxy s8, iPhone SE, iPhone 7. Mojo killed literally every source I listened connected the h6 to. It also explained me why hd 650 is superior to h6 in a good way. The only headphone I am looking for next is 650 in a closed form. Until mojo, I didn't feel the difference between the 650 and h6 that much. 650 is just superb hefty with male vocals, on mojo. Whatever it try h6 cannot have that heft. It's easier to identify the difference between 2 close toned people on 650.h6 normalises it. I sold the 650 some weeks since I only listen putdoors on headphones where h6 still makes sense. But every time I play something like Allen Taylor, I miss that humoungous heft of hd 650. Mojo makes voices thicker, h6 but that scaling is more apparent on 650 than h6.. Try mojoing h6 , it's also superb. . The newest surprise to me is the VE ODESSEY. .i claim it's superior to the iPhone 7 and s8 I have with h6 . Doubtfup people can spend 13 bucks to try this out to counter me.