[teb1013]

Sobryanbutwhy If you try Telefunken, let us know. They're usually pretty expensive. Upscale Audio has Telefunken CCA 6922s for $275 USD but these are "only" $110 for driver grade which should work fine with the Aune T1. They have another 6922 for $129. Frankly this is more than I have to spend on a single tube. My Amperex 7308 cost $50 for driver grade. That's about as high as I want to go. Good luck in your search.

 

[RTTO]

Got my T1 about 5 months ago. Did the first tube swap Friday. Since I'm not too keen about OS tube as they are not sustainable. The tube I got is Sovtek 6H30Pi as suggested. It is definitely an improvement over the stock 6922EH in general. Treble is less hot and the bottom is fuller. The tube runs much hotter than the stock tube. So far so good.

 

[HeavenNotes]

  Hey folks! I'm surprised this wallet-friendly device hasn't really been mentioned much here on head-fi. I recently stumbled upon a thread over at rockgrotto that basically raves about it, so I decided to order one from Aune on ebay. It just came in today. I'm listening to a FLAC rip of the new Pinback album as I type this, and I'm seriously shocked at how good this thing sounds. It sounds good, really good, like light-years-better-than-anything-else-I-have-ever-heard-no-contest good.I haven't done many reviews, and I literally just started listening to this device, so let me present you some brief points worth mentioning.
 

1. I recently had the Audioquest Dragonfly in my possession and the Aune T1 absolutely obliterates it.
2. Other sources I have experience with include the Sansa Clip+, IPhone 4, Sony S639f, S: Flo 2, Ibasso D1, and HRT Headstreamer.
3. The amps I've had have all been solid state. Solid state amps that I've tried include Ibasso D1, Channel Islands Audio VHP-2, AMB Mini3, Digizoid ZO v1 (not really an amp but acts as one), and Audioquest Dragonfly
4. What my experience means is that either 1) I'm blown away because I was born to listen to tubes and didn't know it until now, 2) The Aune T1 is ridiculously good for the price, or 3) a mixture of both 1 and 2.
5. The headphones that I use are a Symphones Magnum v4 build that I put together myself.
6. The tube I usually use in the Aune T1 is a Genalex Gold Lion, but I sometime use a Voskhod 6N23P "rocket logo" tube. 
7. See more in depth tube impressions below.

 
That is pretty much all I have for now. I don't want to be one those annoying people that just raves about their gear simply because its new--I feel truly compelled to inform everyone here that the Aune T1 is in my opinion the REAL DEAL at only $200 shipped.
 
For those who don't like to read, here is my review in picture form:
 
 

 
plus
 
 

 
equals
 
 

 
 
 
 

-UPDATED 7/31/13-

********Here I will address some questions that seem to pop up frequently in this thread*************

 
Q: What types of tubes will work with the Aune T1?
A: 6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, E88CC, 7308, 6N23P, 6N27P, 6N11, 6N1P, 7DJ8, PCC88, ECC189, 6ES8, E188CC, ECC86, 6GM8, PCC189, 7ES8, Cca, CV2492, CV10320, CV5231, CV5354, CV5358, M3624
 
 
Q: Where can I purchase the Aune T1?
A: I purchased mine from the official Aune vendor on ebay (auneaudio) but there are numerous vendors to choose from. I have not heard any negative reports yet from any particular vendor but YMMV.
 
Q: Does the Aune T1 come with a tube? 
A: Yes, the Aune T1 does come with a 6N11 chinese tube. 
 
Q:What is the "upgrade version" of the T1 that some ebay vendors seem to be selling?
A: The "upgrade version" on the T1 is identical to the regular version, but it comes with a better tube. My advice is to get the regular version, then invest your money in some good NOS (new old stock) tubes.
 
[size=15.555556297302246px]Q: What tube should I buy for the Aune T1?[/size]
[size=15.555556297302246px]A: See the end of the FAQ for my personal tube impressions.[/size]
 
Q: Does the Aune T1 DAC utilize the tube, does the T1 headphone amp section use the tube, or do they both use the tube?
A: The Aune T1 is a USB tube DAC with a solid state headphone amp. What this means is that if you want the benefits of the tube, you must use the USB Input of the T1.  The amp section of the T1 does not use the tube by itself. Technically, you could bypass the DAC of the T1 and just use the amp but this type of use is not really what the T1 is for. One thing you can do is use the T1 USB input then hook up a different amp to the RCA out of the T1. This will give you the benefits of the tube and allow you to try a different/more powerful amp (though I think the amp in the T1 is quite good).  I personally have a speaker amp hooked up this way so I can use my headphones and some bookshelf speakers at the same time from one source.
 
Q:What headphones are adequately driven by the Aune T1 amp?
A: Almost every headphone I have tried with the T1 works very, very well. 
 
Here is a list of headphones that I've used on the T1, and I think sound great:
Sennheiser HD800
Sennheiser HD650
Hifiman HE-400 
Beyerdynamic DT880 and DT990 (250 ohm versions)
AKG K702 Anniversary
AKG K550
Symphones Magnum v4 and v5 (my favorite headphones)
[size=15.555556297302246px]I imagine that Grado headphones would make an excellent match with the T1 since the Magnums sound so good on it.[/size]
The Beyerdynamic T1 sounds good on the T1, but I personally found that it benefits a little in the bass department with the extra power from my speaker amp (I terminated the Beyers to banana plugs).
 
Headphones that needed more power than the T1 could offer:
Audeze LCD-2
Hifiman HE-6
 
Extra Notes:
 
If you change the cord or adapter then don`t forget to change it to one that has a FUSE in it!
IMPORTANT! - UK plug fuse should be changed to something between 0,5A - 3A fuse because in stock it comes with 13A fuse which is way too much!
http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=talk&thread=8297&page=15#125152
 
****TUBE IMPRESSIONS****
 
Genalex Gold Lion E88CC:
Given some time with the Genalex and comparing it to my precious Voskhod, I have to say I’m quite impressed and that I think I’ve found a new favorite tube. The Genalex has many of the qualities of the Voskhod I like, such as intimate mids and vocals, but the Genalex is able to deliver this to me with more clarity and soundstage. The extra clarity does make the T1 sound more digital and less analog than the Voskhod, but I still think it is ultimately a superior sound. At first, I thought the Genalex had punchier bass, but after adjusting to the sound, I realized I was mistaken and that the Voskhod was more tactile in this respect.  Then, I thought perhaps a gain adjustment would make a difference, and lo and behold, +8 did just the trick in bringing the Genalex bass up to where I wanted it. Good times!
 
Russian 6n23p Rocket logo
This tube is intimacy to the max. Warm, but not muddy. Forward sounding. Output volume seems higher than the other tubes I’ve tried. Very musical and engaging tube. It’s a fun listen for sure but it comes at the cost of some soundstage. Has a very punchy midbass but doesn’t have as much presence in the lowest bass notes. Has a kind of addictive tube sound.
Purchased here: http://www.boiaudioworks.com/6N23P
 
Russian 6n23p-eb
Very nice detailed sound, great soundstage and imaging. Less aggressive than the rocket logo. Has very, very good lower bass presence. Kind of a U shaped sound signature compared to the rocket logo. Overall, very good. Whether or not I prefer this or the rocket logo depends on my mood.
Purchased here:  http://www.thecableco.com/Product/Russian-Military-6H23N-EB--Single-
 
Matsu****a 7dj8
This tube ended up being a pretty big disappointment. Upscale Audio hyped it up majorly, but I found this tube to sound dark, very dark. Lacks resolution and just sounds a little “off.” I do not recommend it. Sounds like I’m listening to a cheap mp3 player instead of a piece of nice audio equipment.
Purchased here: http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Matsu****a-%7B47%7D-National-PCC88-%7B47%7D-7DJ8.html    <------this link won't work because head-fi edits out the s-word...lol
 
RCA labeled Amperex 6dj8/E88cc
This tube is very nice. It’s kind of a middle ground between the two Russian tubes. It’s kind of laid-back in a way that is unlike those tubes, though. This tube is balanced sounding, maybe a little soft in the low end and a tad polite in the treble. It’s pretty natural sounding. Good soundstage and imaging.  Overall a nice tube that maybe doesn’t have the addictive character that the rocket logo does and doesn’t have that ultra controlled low bass of the 6n23p-eb, but it does a lot right and sounds great overall.
Purchased from head-fi for sale forum.
 
Amperex 7308  Gold Pin
Alright guys, I finally got my hands on my Amperex 7308. This tube is the real deal no doubt about it. The first thing that stood out when I popped this tube in was man this thing sounds HOLOGRAPHIC. I've never heard anything have this much soundstage but still retain such smoothness. It's well balanced and dynamic with excellent details in the whole sound spectrum. Despite this, I decided to use the Rocket Logo 6n23p as my primary tube. The Rocket Logo has this addictive aggressive sound that I just can't shake. I believe that out of all of the tube I tried, the vast majority will prefer the Amperex 7308, but for me...Rocket Logo all the way...makes my Magnums rock so, so hard.
Purchased here:http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Amperex-7308-vintage-gold-pin%21.html
 
 
ALSO SEE SALVATORE'S HELPFUL LINKS BELOW (VERY INFORMATIVE):
 
 

 
 
Hello all
 
I found a gem that is not listed here.  ADZAM E 288 CC  The best of all, period.   It is a bigger tube.  Pictures soon.

 

[toysareforboys]

  Hello all
 
I found a gem that is not listed here.  ADZAM E 288 CC  The best of all, period.   It is a bigger tube.  Pictures soon.

Did it really required quoting the entire first post?
 
-Jamie M.

 

[spacequeen7]

^^ I think he's really exited 
 
@

 The best of all

1. HeavenNotes... how many tubes have you compare it to ??

 

[ElBartoME]

   
 
Hello all
 
I found a gem that is not listed here.  ADZAM E 288 CC  The best of all, period.   It is a bigger tube.  Pictures soon.

You are sure the T1 isn't going to be damaged in the long run? It has a MUCH higher heater current than the E88CC.

 

[toysareforboys]

  You are sure the T1 isn't going to be damaged in the long run? It has a MUCH higher heater current than the E88CC.

I'll use my friends thermal camera to snap a pic of my Aune T1. It really cooks, almost uncomfortable to hold your hand on the Aune logo! I'm running the 6N23P Russian Voskhod Rocket. Didn't run it with the stock tube enough to tell if it ran any cooler.
 
-Jamie M.

 

[ElBartoME]

 
I'll use my friends thermal camera to snap a pic of my Aune T1. It really cooks, almost uncomfortable to hold your hand on the Aune logo! I'm running the 6N23P Russian Voskhod Rocket. Didn't run it with the stock tube enough to tell if it ran any cooler.
 
-Jamie M.

I'm talking about the E288CC. The 6N23P does almost have the same heater current like the E88CC.
 
E88CC = 300mA
E288CC = 475mA

 

[NCSUZoSo]

 I finally get my Aune T1 back up and running with all caps now modded tomorrow when the replacement USB B PCB Jack arrives after the original pulled out a leg during de-soldering since I couldn't get it to go back in place with the jack sticking out (one of four legs).  I have been down probably a week at best, maybe longer.  However my Yamaha RV-V863 is a 1 Grand receiver when it was made and it has a decent headphone amp, it clicks over and disables the primaries when you plug in a set.  I'm not sure if it will drive 600 Ohms, but it wouldn't surprise me.  This receiver has all Burr Brown equipment inside and uses Yamaha Silent Cinema* (which is pretty well known), so signal definitely doesn't deteriorate going into this baby.  Not to mention I run my PC/Media sound in through Multi-Channel in, which disables all processing and only routes the signal through the AV amps.  Overall I am really happy with the setup in my signature.  I do like to have the Aune T1 if I'm going to do dedicated headphone listening (which I do often), as it does it sound better than the path from the Creative through whatever is available inside the receiver.  With the Aune T1 I know exactly what is doing what and what is driving what + a tube audio buffer.  It gives an overall more organic and wide sound stage, possibly lacking some of the bass after my cap swap, so that isn't true with the stock unit compared directly to my AV headphone signal on just bass.  Everywhere it definitely loses in every other category and the bass is up for debate depending on how much bass you want.  You can remedy my drop in bass by rollling caps if you get the same result, I have heard good things about the high end Panasonic caps and I think they actually fit unlike mine.
 

 

Headphone Jack Rated Output/Impedance
CD, etc. (1 kHz, 50 mV, 8 Ω) ............................... 150 mV/100 Ω
• Frequency Response
CD to Front L/R, 10 Hz to 100 kHz
...................................................................................... +0/–3 dB
 

 
 
So I guess according to the specs, is that just saying it will output 150mV at 100ohms?
 
 
*SILENT CINEMA
Yamaha has developed a natural, realistic sound effect
DSP algorithm for headphones. Parameters for
headphones have been set for each sound field so that
accurate representations of all the sound field programs
can be enjoyed on headphones.

SILENT CINEMA allows you to enjoy multi-channel
music or movie sound, including Dolby Digital and DTS
sources, through ordinary headphones. SILENT CINEMA
activates automatically whenever you connect headphones
to the PHONES jack while listening to sound field
programs (see page 48). When activated, the SILENT
CINEMA indicator lights up in the front panel display
 
(The thing is, with multi-channel in, it disables any type of processing, so I couldn't select anything anyway.  All the same circuitry is obviously used though)
 
 
Receiver:  http://hometheaterreview.com/yamaha-rx-v863-72-channel-home-theater-receiver-reviewed/
 
 
With my Receiver you have these options:

 

HEADPHONE Adjusts the headphone LFE level. 93
HEADPHONE Adjusts the amount of the dynamic range compression of the headphones. 93

 

Use this feature to adjust the output level of the LFE (lowfrequency
effect) channel according to the capacity of
your subwoofer or headphones. The LFE channel carries
low-frequency special effects which are only added to
certain scenes. This setting is effective when the input
signal contains the LFE channel.
Control range: –20 to 0 dB
Control step: 1 dB
 
Dynamic range C)DYNAMIC RANGE
Use this feature to select the amount of dynamic range
compression to be applied to your speakers or
headphones. This setting is effective only when this unit is
decoding bitstream signals.
Speakers SPEAKER
Adjusts the dynamic range compression for the speakers.
Headphones HEADPHONE
Adjusts the dynamic range compression for the
headphones.
Note
[]/[]:
[p]/[[]:
[
p
B)LFE LEVEL
SPEAKER;;;;;;0dB
HEADPHONE;;;;0dB
Up/Down
Adjust
.
Choice Functions
MIN/AUTO • MIN: Adjusts the dynamic range to narrow
when this unit is decoding bitstream signals
(except Dolby TrueHD).
• AUTO: Adjusts the dynamic range according
to the instruction of the input source signals
when this unit is decoding Dolby TrueHD
signals.
STD Adjusts the dynamic range to medium. When
this unit is decoding Dolby TrueHD signals, the
dynamic range control is always active
regardless of the instruction of the input source
signals.
MAX Preserves the greatest amount of dynamic range

 
 
Any opinions on what to set these to?  Setting the LFE level for headphones works how exactly, is this more or less a crossover to prevent distortion from high level of bass?  It's not like there is a sub inside, lol.
 
 
Or does anyone have anything to say about the spec of the headphone performance listed in the manual (listed right after I ended first paragraph, the first quotation).

 

[HeavenNotes]

^^ I think he's really exited 

@

1. HeavenNotes... how many tubes have you compare it to ??

Hello. I have the top of the line.

 

[JoshuaA]

I have a few tubes coming in the mail, and I'm looking for advice on new headphones to use particularly with the AuneT1, budget up to $300 or $400.
 
I currently use HD598 and UE6000.
 
I listen to a wide range of music but lately tend to veer towards enjoying vocal tracks, electronic and hiphop.
My young kids sometimes use the AuneT1 to listen to their pop and soundtracks. They have their own Amperiors and Momentums (not used on the AuneT1)
 
I've considered HE400, AKG K701, DT880/990 (not sure which ohm).
 
Suggestions?

 

[NCSUZoSo]

What are you primarily doing with the headphones?

 

[babyhunz]

Thanks to you guys I have splurged on the Aune T1 and a bunch of tubes. The Aune T1 is the best gateway drug to the world of tubes and I absolutely love the purchase. Anyway since I have all these tubes to compare, I want to share my opinion of them. Again, these are merely my opinion and is therefore skewed with my taste of music. For reference, I love progressive house and trance music, although I do listen to acoustic and classical music once in a while.
 

 
 
From left to right:
 
Eletro Harmonix 6922EH - Stock tube with the Aune T1. It’s free so I can’t complain. It does everything just fine. Average, nothing special. A little bit heavy on the bass but not that much. Great for pop and top 40 songs and certainly a gateway drug to the other tubes. One day you will want to tube roll like me…
 
Amperex 7308 (halo getter, green label, globe logo, made in US in 1968) - Soundstage galore. Spacious, airy sound. Definitely heavier on the bass than the 6922EH but because everything sounds so wide, you can hear a lot more details than usual. I never knew what “holographic” sounds means until now. I’m blown away. This tube is a real gem but it’s a bit too pricey. I paid $65 for the tube. I highly recommend this tube for classical and acoustic songs. I use this tube with the Above & Beyond - Acoustic album in FLAC.
 
Amperex 6DJ8 (A getter, orange label, PQ logo, made in Holland in 1972) - Bass bass bass bass bass. You lose high end and you certainly lose details, but you gain massive bass. It pounds your head. I actually like this tube from time to time because it is fun. Sometimes you are bored of the analytical sound from other tubes or other headphones. Sometimes you just want to have fun. Absolutely terrific for progressive house, dubstep and more. Also these are cheap. I got this tube for $25. I listen to Daft Punk - Random Access Memories (Studio Master edition 24-bit 88.2kHz). 
 
Amperex 6DJ8 (A getter, orange label, PQ logo, made in Holland in 1974) - Ok so compared to the above, this tube is 2 years newer. Something changed because the bass is not the same. It’s there but the impact is less. Since the bass is not as emphasized, you get some of the higher end back. But if I want higher end and less bass I would have gone with the Amperex 7308 above anyway (except if price matters. This tube is significantly cheaper.)

 

[NCSUZoSo]

You need to look at a Siemens E188CC (CCa, German Made) next or just some 6992 E88CC and give them a try, however the E188C (and E288C) are god awful expensive since they are both unlabeled CCa tubes which were never supposed to leave Germany.
 
Here is a E288CC just to show you they do exist haha:
http://www.upscaleaudio.com/Siemens-E288CC-8223_p_43.html  ($170/tube)
 
And here is a "normal" E188CC/CCa:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CCa-SIEMENS-audio-tube-premium-6299-E88CC-CCa-/281270933632?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item417d0dd880 ($129/tube)
 
(To read an impression of the E188CC (one design used), give this a read: http://www.tubemuseum.org/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SH-E88CC+PVT.STOCK)
 
 
3 things every Siemens E88CC has (due to the amount of fakes you should check this, same with Amperex):
 
1) There should be a number inside of a circle in the center of the pins.
2) There should be 4 ridges on the top of the tube going outward from the center.
3) The pins should be gold.
 
If all three of those are true, then you have a real Siemens 6992/E88CC
 
 
Good reviews on your existing tubes though!!  Also if you think rolling a single tube is addictive?  Wait until you get a device that is tube powered instead of just a tube buffer and you are playing with 4-8 tubes 

 
 
 
This is also a useful site when comparing tubes you are considering with known legendary 6992 tubes, for example he has a top 5 CCa tubes ever made:
 
Quote:

The Best Sounding CCa=6922 ever made TOP 5: -----
1) CCa Siemens & Halske 1950's "U" getter halo and 1960's "O" getter halo "Rarest and most sought after CCa, has "gray shield" between plates, Most realistic sounding holographic soundstage, pure seductive sonic joy, complex symphonic images emerge effortlessly"
2) CCa Telefunken West Germany 1960's "excellent neutral holographic soundstage, vast vocabulary of tone establishes remarkable layers of harmonics, very rare"
3) CCa Siemens & Halske A-FRAME construction late 1960's - early 1970's "beautiful open air holographic images, low microphonic tube construction, rare"
4) CCa LORENZ West Germany early 1960's "beautiful open air holographic images, very rare"
5) CCa VALVO Heerlen Holland 1960's "real sonic holography, extremely rare" 6) CCa Siemens Rohre A-Frame early 1973-1974 (in stock, silver shield)

 
https://www.tubeworld.com/6922.htm
 
When looking I'm pretty sure I saw a Lorenz CCa on Ebay  (#4).
 
 
Have fun and report back to us with any questions or when you decide you want to do some soldering/desoldering 

  (Caps Mod)
 
_

 

[NCSUZoSo]

Hey guys, don't forget I still have those "Super Gold" ELNA SILMIC II (47uF/50V) headphone PCB coupling caps for sale.  I got a set of 4 so I have 2 for sale, they ran $20 (Ebay Link), so I'll sell the other two caps for $10.  These fit with only a slight modification once soldered, you just need to bend it slightly away from the Mosfet close by, other than that these are the only caps I have that actually fit haha.
 
Here is Ebay ad: http://www.ebay.com/itm/350858832618?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
 

 
 
 
I'll do $10 w/ free shipping inside the US, outside the US I'll have to charge shipping.
 
 
Here is what I mean about fitting; note your actual clearance height is right at 20mm, so keep that in mind when selecting your caps unless you want to do this: