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Aune T1 USB Tube DAC+ SS Amp Discussion Thread ***See first post for FAQ--Updated on 02/14/15***

Feb 23, 2015 at 3:48 PM Post #6,842 of 8,309
Maybe later then lol. You picked up the 600's already? Glad you're digging them man. I love the synergy with this set up. I've found that some hi rez files sound close enough to my vinyl rig that laziness wins out lol. 16/44 rips don't really compare though...
 
Feb 23, 2015 at 3:55 PM Post #6,843 of 8,309
sirmarc said:
Maybe later then lol. You picked up the 600's already? Glad you're digging them man. I love the synergy with this set up. I've found that some hi rez files sound close enough to my vinyl rig that laziness wins out lol. 16/44 rips don't really compare though...
Click to expand...

Nope not yet. But I'm looking into it for sure.
 
Feb 23, 2015 at 5:06 PM Post #6,844 of 8,309

In my search for a replacement power supply, I've emailed both Aune and HiFi DIY with no response yet. 
 
In the meantime, I did open the broken power supply and it's literally a transformer with two wires in and three wires out, no other circuitry. It should be pretty straightforward building a replacement. I've been looking for a source for a 110V to 15VAC, 0, 15VAC transformer and haven't had any luck. Please let me know if you know a source. 
 
I did pull out the multimeter today and measured the pins on the connector. It's measuring almost 19VAC on the outer pins relative to the center pin.
 
Some questions because I don't know much, but am stupid enough to try dangerous things:
 
1. Would an 18VAC, 0, 18VAC transformer work just as well, these seem much easier to source?
 
2. Stock power supply is rated a 0.8A, will a transformer that's rated for more current be okay as well? 
 
I am in contact with http://www.swagmanlab.com, who did get back to me and said they could build me a power supply as well. 
 
Any thoughts? 
 
Feb 23, 2015 at 5:30 PM Post #6,845 of 8,309
Since I'm here, I'll add some general thoughts on the Aune T1. 
 
I did compare the T1 to the Peachtree Audio Nova and the Wadia 121, I had at the time. I ended up keeping the Aune T1. I liked the T1 better than the Nova. The Wadia 121 was better overall than the T1, but not enough for me to justify keeping it and for other ergonomic reasons. I can elaborate if anyone wants to know. 
 
Recently, I did connect the T1 to the two external headphone amps I have around, a FiiO E09K and a TTVJ Fet-A. Both elevated the sound by a considerable degree. I wholeheartedly agree with what others have said on the thread, the T1 is improved by the addition of a dedicated amp. This has proven to be more the case with my current headphones, Massdrop AKG k7xx. The onboard amp on the T1 is not quite up to driving these properly. Volume is adequate, but always noticed an slight edge and graininess that's gone with the outboard amps. 
 
Feb 23, 2015 at 5:44 PM Post #6,846 of 8,309
tonephile said:
 
In my search for a replacement power supply, I've emailed both Aune and HiFi DIY with no response yet. 
 
In the meantime, I did open the broken power supply and it's literally a transformer with two wires in and three wires out, no other circuitry. It should be pretty straightforward building a replacement. I've been looking for a source for a 110V to 15VAC, 0, 15VAC transformer and haven't had any luck. Please let me know if you know a source. 
 
I did pull out the multimeter today and measured the pins on the connector. It's measuring almost 19VAC on the outer pins relative to the center pin.
 
Some questions because I don't know much, but am stupid enough to try dangerous things:
 
1. Would an 18VAC, 0, 18VAC transformer work just as well, these seem much easier to source?
 
2. Stock power supply is rated a 0.8A, will a transformer that's rated for more current be okay as well? 
 
I am in contact with http://www.swagmanlab.com, who did get back to me and said they could build me a power supply as well. 
 
Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

 
1. Yes - 110V primary winding and a 36V secondary winding, center tapped to create the 18V 0V 18V secondary.
2. Yes - as long as you can put out 0.8A on the secondary, you're fine. eg. a 30W transformer, or you could go higher.
 
The stock one should be fairy cheap from Aune, whenever they get back to you.
 
What happened to your original transformer? Did you have a short circuit that killed one of the windings?
 
Feb 23, 2015 at 5:48 PM Post #6,847 of 8,309
sirmarc said:
What do they run? Unless they're very cheap, I need to take a break for a little while. Just dropped 6 bills on my frigging turntable plus amother couple hundred on vinyl. My wife's ready to stab me to death lol
Click to expand...

lol harsh! They occasionally sell for cheaper... I'll give you a PM if I see more cheap ones listed. http://www.ebay.com/itm/261775316969
 
Feb 24, 2015 at 7:52 AM Post #6,850 of 8,309
mikoss said:
  Exactly my thoughts on the Siemens vs Amperex tubes...
 
Siemens have deeper bass with more punch, and more sparkle on top. Overall, more transparent sounding until you start comparing the very best Amperex tubes to Siemens, where they start sounding very similar to each other. Siemens to me sound extremely transparent as you move up to E188CC's and then to CCa tubes. Imaging and micro-detail get better.
 
Amperex tubes have a more linear/overall warm sound with the Holland's having an emphasis on midrange. I find the 7308 branded tubes to have a rolled off top end... not noticeably or anything, until you swap in a younger 7308 or a Miniwatt... these tubes to me have a much better high end. Imaging comes out better, and so does micro detail retrieval. The young ones would be VR0, VR1 or VR2. After that, they all start sounding less exciting to me.
 
USA made Amperex tubes have less warmth in the lower midrange, and more tweed in the upper mids... a more "raw" sound. I find it helps to add some atmosphere overall and that may be why a lot of people prefer the USN white label tubes. I think they're slightly overrated and overpriced, going for over $125/tube.
 
I recently compared a crapload of Amperex tubes and came to these conclusions... I actually enjoy the Hamburg made E88CC's a lot because they remind me of Siemens tubes quite a bit, but still retain a bit of the Holland midrange.
Click to expand...

 
 
So I just came across this on: http://www.audiotubes.com/6dj8.htm  in the "A Note About Amperex 6922 and Bugle Boy Tubes:" section.
 
"They also NEVER made a 7308 or E188CC with the Bugle Boy on the box OR glass. In this family of tubes, only the 6DJ8 had the cartoon tube on the glass, but again, never on the box."
 
So... is this incorrect or is this not a genuine 7308/Amperex??  You take anything you read off the internet with a grain of salt of course, but they sound pretty confident on that.
 
Maybe that is why there is a large sticker Tektronix sticker on it?
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400859053858
 
Feb 24, 2015 at 8:01 AM Post #6,851 of 8,309
Can you find any batch or date code info on your tube? That would be most helpful.

The 7308 Holland tubes have VR batch codes, so if it has a different batch code, it may be a 6922. The "7308" printed on the glass looks like the same font on an HP branded Holland 7308 I recently bought...

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=231159884166

But yes, this would be the first bb I've seen on a 7308.
 
Feb 24, 2015 at 8:52 AM Post #6,852 of 8,309
Is the green lettering towards the bottom the batch?  I was trying to show without a doubt it is a Bugle Boy first of all and I finally succeeded after some time in CS6 and many pictures, lol.
 
This image has been altered to try and focus the insanely hard to capture logo behind the sticker, so it doesn't look like that exactly.
 
 

 
 
You need to look at the original size image (click on it -> original) to really see the BB logo.
 
 
The green print says: 3K4  (with that symbol)
 
I can't find the other one like VR or 7L, shouldn't it be right near by the other numbers?
 
Feb 24, 2015 at 11:25 AM Post #6,854 of 8,309
Found it, it is VR, so this is an E188CC BB  
L3000.gif
 
 
It took me literally 10 minutes and a good flashlight.  You have to hit the tube with the light at the exact angle to show the etching and there it is.  The tube that doesn't exist, haha.
 
I'm not sure how I would ever be able to get a picture of it though, you can only see it in person and you'd need good eyes.  Unless there is some trick to show etchings that have been wiped off and only leave the grooves.
 
I'd say $74.99 is a pretty good deal for this tube that tests: 10,600/11,400 µmhos ~ 11.0/12.0 mA  (12.5k/12.5k ~ 15/15mA = 100%)
 
So I guess the full description of the tube is: 1963 Amperex Holland 7308 Bugle Boy 
wink.gif
 
 
Feb 24, 2015 at 9:56 PM Post #6,855 of 8,309
My T1 seems to have developed a channel imbalance issue... the left channel is higher than the right until the volume is about halfway... I wonder if this is just more noticeable with certain tubes, or if it's just messed in general. Anyone know if this is caused by the volume potentiometer, or is it some other problem (such as the amp circuit)?
 
Halfway is too loud for my ears. I wouldn't mind replacing the pot, if it's easy enough... I would also really enjoy buying a higher quality product that doesn't become broken, but sounds as beautiful as the T1. Sigh.
mad.gif
 
 
 
edit: tried other tubes... still has the problem. PS. If anyone wants a nice tube on a budget, go with a PCC88... currently listening to a Philips PCC88 with a very weird looking factory code. Sounds very nice. This one was $25 and I imagine they can be had for much cheaper. Here is a screenshot from an eBay listing with a PCC88 that has the same factory code as mine... any idea what factory this came from? It looks like a weird circle with a dot in the middle. Looks like Ei Yugoslavia made tubes.
 

 
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