Thinking about an Asgard 2 to replace my vintage receiver as an amp for the T1. Anyone try this combo? It sounds great right now, but takes up a ton of space on my coffee table. Thanks
Marc
Marc
edit: Wow. I think you nailed exactly what this poster said after comparing a bunch of caps and being torn between Cerafines and Silmic II's... from him:
Elna Cerafine: The midrange is really pushed to the front with the Cerafine’s, vocals now sit out in front of the speakers into the room. The upper mids and high end have what I would call an open window to the music. Let me explain, there is a small jazz band playing in a building and you are standing outside the window listening, you can hear the music quite well, now you open the window now you can really hear it, there is nothing between you and the music. That is how the Cerafine’s sound in the upper midrange and out to the high end, I have not really heard better. They better the Silmics in 2 area’s and both have to do with detail, the high end of the Cerafine’s are just a tad more open and detailed giving you an even closer sound to the real thing. The other is in low bass detail and articulation, they are not as strong in the lowest octave as the Silmics but what is there is very detailed. The Cerafine’s do not have the lush smooth tube sound of the Silmics but sound like the best that solid state can offer.
Worth a read if anyone is interested: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/archive/index.php/t-381961.html
...
1 more question, as for the Panasonic caps, I couldn't find any FR caps, so I used M caps (the blue ones), quite a lot cheaper, but that's what I could find. Do they play an important part in shaping the sounds? In other words, is it imperative that I use FR caps instead of M caps?
Put simply, I'm aiming at the warmness sound of tubes. Frankly, I don't really like what I got from the Cerafine. Not that it sounds bad (it's far more detailed and wider than the original caps, actually), but like you posted, sounds too much of solid state for me.
Thank you.
After years of waiting I got HD600s just today. As with my HD558s I am using the Aune T1 with Amperex 7308 and will be primarily listening to classical, jazz and classic rock. I must turn the T1 up quite a bit to get similar volume with 0 gain. What gain do other 600 users use? Is it better to turn up vol or increase gain? I currently have these up to about 2/3 up to give similar vol to the 558s at over 1/3 vol.
To answer my own question, the 10DB setting seems perfect for driving the Sennheiser HD600 (at least for a couple of days listening). So far I'm loving the T1 (mk1) and HD600 combo. I will report further, but, at this point, I don't think that an upgrade of the DAC/Amp from the Aune will be necessary for quite a while.
If you're looking to hear warmness, I would recommend the Silmic II's. For me, everything that I loved about the signature sound of rolling different tubes was fleshed out better after upgrading to them. I described it as liquid gold and I think it really accentuates what the T1 is capable of doing with different tubes. I have tried faster capacitors in the Woo Audio WA2 and I also felt they diminished everything that I loved about the amp... especially the smooth tube sound. I ended up paying for some expensive capacitors that gave the WA2 more speed, but took too much away. I think this is probably how you feel about the Cerafines, but I don't want to put words into your mouth... just some thoughts. I think the Silmic II's are worth trying.
As for the Panasonic FR's... these were the power caps chosen by some headfi'ers posting here towards the beginning of the year, after trying a couple different ones. The FR's have great specs, better than the M series, but I'm not sure if/how the sound would change. I find that with the FR's, the bass is heavier and tighter than the stock T1. Paired with the right tube, the T1 has decent attack. (I find the Siemens E88CC and the Miniwatt E188CC to have considerably better bass/attack than other tubes I've heard). To give you an example, I now hear drums that are being slapped by hand and the natural reverb of the drum skins on some songs where I could never tell this was actually happening. I think it's great to hear the attack but also the decay afterwards, carrying the weight of everything through.
Here are the links for the Panny datasheets: http://industrial.panasonic.com/www-data/pdf/ABA0000/ABA0000CE12.pdf
http://industrial.panasonic.com/www-data/pdf/ABA0000/ABA0000CE132.pdf
Guys I have only dx90 dap and Mba to reach this device. Dx90 has 3.5mm hp out, line in and coax while mba mid 2013 ha both usb and 3.5mm hp socket.
Can I use a 3.5mm to RCA cable to prove music to Aune? Or the mighty demands usb audio only?
Went to Zoetermeer, 1 hour drive to visit a small shop called HifiStudio79. They had the Aune T1 for 119.- Euro and I'm happy that I could finally make my decision.
The SW switch is a on and off switch... Lol those Chinese really like to mess with us电源拨档开关 mean's something like Power Dial-speed switch why the hell did they called it SW.... Make it ON/OFF
Digital Manual - http://pic3.hifidiy.net/www/2014/aune/manual/T1_MK2_manual_20140512.pdf
I'm very pleased with the device, could already hear so much more than with my normal Sound card. The Bass is a bit less then from the on board PC headphone out, but it's way more balanced and clear... This will make me listen en enjoy it even more !
Thanks to this forum and the posters !!!
@creatip
Can you explain a bit more about your experience with it?
I'm a modder from nature heheAnd will try reading everything in this post and hope I don't get to much stimulation to mod it or tube change it.
Would be the first time if I just let it for what it is![]()
Tube switching and the mod you have done.. How did it change your experience with music listening?
Ps. I have already read your review, nice to meet you here haha !! It's a damn nice review !!!!! Awesome pictures my thanks !