[jabbr]

Yep, best place is after the Rednet to reclock the SPDIF, not as a master clock to the RedNet.
During the time Rob was still posting here, he also found that there are better Word clocks than Mutec.

 

[mourip]

 
Word Clock is the clock which tells the DAC to convert at the selected sampling rate; master clocks are not required for multibit designs but are the higher frequency clocks required for (usually 128 to 512 times the word clock) required for delta sigma and sigma delta dacs and adcs.

 
Glad to see you checking in here. Have you had a chance to listen to a Dante AOIP setup?

 

[mourip]

johngen and mourip,

Could one or both of you give me the latest versions of pre-version two software to use?

It's been so long since I've used them, I'm not sure which versions to go with on the Dante and Rednet programs.

Buggy is right as regards version 2.

Much as I like the sample rate changing, the other hassles now have me questioning the value of that feature.

Thanks.

Joel

 
I have two systems. One for headphones and also a speaker system. The speaker system uses v1.1 while my HP system uses V2. I find V2 to be buggy.

 

[jelt2359]

The master clock is, or can be, a set and forget function, so the advice can make more sense when viewed in that way.

And both the RN3 and D16 have no master clock input, only word clock in/out.
Which means the master clock has no other device, other than the 3+, to send it's signal to.

JJ

So they are right in that that's the only way to use it. Would the whole system then take the master clock as reference in this case and would it be optimal? Or should I just be looking for a clock with word clock output?

 

[joelha]

   
I have two systems. One for headphones and also a speaker system. The speaker system uses v1.1 while my HP system uses V2. I find V2 to be buggy.

Thanks a lot, mourip.
 
So I can I just uninstall v. 2 and reinstall v. 1.1?
 
And I don't have to change anything with regard to the Dante software I've already installed?
 
Joel

 

[mourip]

  Thanks a lot, mourip.
 
So I can I just uninstall v. 2 and reinstall v. 1.1?
 
And I don't have to change anything with regard to the Dante software I've already installed?
 
Joel

 
I have been working with Focusrite(Dante) for a while to get my issues with V2 sorted out. Basically they are scratching their heads but said that you can safely have both versions installed at the same time if you like. I will probably do that and then uninstall V2 if 1.1 works as expected.
 
The problem I have with RC V2 is that it seems to drop it's connection with my server and my D16 and then shows an error. Oddly music still plays and I can change tracks and albums in JRMC. Rebooting allows the Rednet devices to show again but after a while they drop off. I also could never get SRF working consistently.

 

[jelt2359]

I have been working with Focusrite(Dante) for a while to get my issues with V2 sorted out. Basically they are scratching their heads but said that you can safely have both versions installed at the same time if you like. I will probably do that and then uninstall V2 if 1.1 works as expected.

The problem I have with RC V2 is that it seems to drop it's connection with my server and my D16 and then shows an error. Oddly music still plays and I can change tracks and albums in JRMC. Rebooting allows the Rednet devices to show again but after a while they drop off. I also could never get SRF working consistently.

Exactly the same here. But I did not uninstall v1.1 and that still works.

 

[thisisvv]

Well able to get mutec-3 USB too. Now waiting for it to come then will see how good this system is. Didn't had right cable for RN3 to Yggdrasil so haven't tested anything yet.

Btw any one seen any difference using different power cables on these equipment

 

[joelha]

   
I have been working with Focusrite(Dante) for a while to get my issues with V2 sorted out. Basically they are scratching their heads but said that you can safely have both versions installed at the same time if you like. I will probably do that and then uninstall V2 if 1.1 works as expected.
 
The problem I have with RC V2 is that it seems to drop it's connection with my server and my D16 and then shows an error. Oddly music still plays and I can change tracks and albums in JRMC. Rebooting allows the Rednet devices to show again but after a while they drop off. I also could never get SRF working consistently.

I've had similar issues, mourip.
 
Thanks for the great information.
 
Joel

 

[mourip]

After reading the glowing reports regarding LPS replacements in the DIYers thread I decided to try an easy one. I already had an HDPlex LPS with multiple outputs which I have been using very successfully to power my audio server so I used an open 12V output to power my Antelope LiveClock. Luckily it has an external DC supply with a standard case connector.
 
This one is definitely worth it. I immediately experienced an increase in clarity and a more natural tonality.
 
Those of you with an RN3 are lucky because your 2U case is a lot thicker. My D16 is 1U and will not be easy to squeeze in an LPS internally. I might consider an external one after my warranty expires.

 

[Muziqboy]

  After reading the glowing reports regarding LPS replacements in the DIYers thread I decided to try an easy one. I already had an HDPlex LPS with multiple outputs which I have been using very successfully to power my audio server so I used an open 12V output to power my Antelope LiveClock. Luckily it has an external DC supply with a standard case connector.
 
This one is definitely worth it. I immediately experienced an increase in clarity and a more natural tonality.
 
Those of you with an RN3 are lucky because your 2U case is a lot thicker. My D16 is 1U and will not be easy to squeeze in an LPS internally. I might consider an external one after my warranty expires.

 
I believe the Antelope Live Clock is rated for voltage input of 12v - 18v and  I really do think that those clocks benefit from a very good LPS, specially a very low noise one.
 
Glad you tried it out.

 

[Mist3rLao]

Muziqboy That means that I should be able to use my Aurlic LPS rated at 16V/1A with the LiveClock, right?

 

[Muziqboy]

Try it and report back here. If it has the standard 5.5mm x 2.1mm dc barrel plug then it's plug and play. Although I think your supply might not have enough current if it is only rated at 1A.

You can verify the amp rating by looking at the spec on the included wall wart of the Live Clock.

 

[Mist3rLao]

Will do. I was just concerned that I might damage the LiveClock with an incompatible power supply.

 

[mourip]

Will do. I was just concerned that I might damage the LiveClock with an incompatible power supply.

 
As long as the voltage is between 12 and 18 volts and the current output is at least that of the original power supply you should be good. The only other thing to consider is the connector size which you can just try by plugging it in without the LPS connected to the wall. If you have a volt meter I suppose you could verify that the connector barrel is ground and the center pin is hot also.
 
5v and 12v connectors tend to be the 2.1mm that you need. 18/19v connectors tend to be the larger 2.5mm and will not fit.