[rsbrsvp]

If I have the option for one of two possibilities; either to put a double oven OXCO on the DI-20HE or to attach ithe OXCO to the R7-HE, which option should give better results?

 

[FredA]

Just a guess but i think the main effect of the ocxo is to help the DAC with dejittering the lower frequencies when applied to the DI. If not applied, that jitter will add up to that intoduced by the DAC's clock and be audible. So the ocxo on the DI should make more difference IMO. The accusilicons are good enough that you can't hear much jitter effect with them just by themselves.Some say phase noise can't be perceived under approx. -100dB

 

[Wynnytsky]

Could someone advice me what are the best sound options in Windows 10. What bitrates should i allow etc?

The sound settings in windows are only used when your media player is pointing to Direct Sound (ie: default sound device) -- fine for youtube but you'll likely be using ASIO or WASAPI in your audiophile media player software.
There are a bunch of common sense tweaks for windows (uninstall or disable ancillary apps/processes). I recall JPlay giving advanced low-level options to escalate it's own priority in windows. There's a free program called Fidelizer that goes even further than JPlay, and it allows you to do so with any media player of your choice. Fidelizer doesn't have an "install" so you just run the executable that you download, and when you reboot then everything is back to normal (so it stops stuff, but doesn't disable them).

The Belden HDMI is a cheap no brainer like the Belken Gold USB cable was 10 years ago, before the market matured. In the past short wires have never lasted with me (maybe reflections from impedance mismatch, or just less material to filter with?) but the 2ft Belden HDMI is free of that. It's the first I2S cable I've used that didn't beg to be partnered with warmer/fuller cables elsewhere in the chain.

Does anyone use a Chinese power cord with litz braiding? I read that's the secret ingredient in my Triode Labs 7+. I'd like to put my r2r7 on a fat litz as well, but these cables are priced liked DACs.

 

[Raser]

The sound settings in windows are only used when your media player is pointing to Direct Sound (ie: default sound device) -- fine for youtube but you'll likely be using ASIO or WASAPI in your audiophile media player software.
There are a bunch of common sense tweaks for windows (uninstall or disable ancillary apps/processes). I recall JPlay giving advanced low-level options to escalate it's own priority in windows. There's a free program called Fidelizer that goes even further than JPlay, and it allows you to do so with any media player of your choice. Fidelizer doesn't have an "install" so you just run the executable that you download, and when you reboot then everything is back to normal (so it stops stuff, but doesn't disable them).

The Belden HDMI is a cheap no brainer like the Belken Gold USB cable was 10 years ago, before the market matured. In the past short wires have never lasted with me (maybe reflections from impedance mismatch, or just less material to filter with?) but the 2ft Belden HDMI is free of that. It's the first I2S cable I've used that didn't beg to be partnered with warmer/fuller cables elsewhere in the chain.

Does anyone use a Chinese power cord with litz braiding? I read that's the secret ingredient in my Triode Labs 7+. I'd like to put my r2r7 on a fat litz as well, but these cables are priced liked DACs.

Thank you for ypur response. So basically when using Tidal etc streaming. Im good to go.

 

[darren700]

Sorry. Than the dh labs d110 (aes/ebu) is great for about 50$ if you can solder, make it 100$ otherwise.

Fred, I have a quick question if you dont mind, Ive been reading about AES/EBU cables as I will be making my first one shortly. When wiring yours did you connect the drain wire or the shield to pin 1 of the XLR?
also did you connect it at both ends? I have been reading conflicting opinions on whether to use the copper shield or drain wire for pin 1 of AES/EBU and also some people suggest only connecting one end of the cable to pin 1 and leave the other end not connected. Just curious how you made yours.

Thanks

 

[Wynnytsky]

Thank you for ypur response. So basically when using Tidal etc streaming. Im good to go.

If you choose ASIO then you can even disable the windows adapter entirely. When using WASAPI you can't do that, but I'm pretty sure it ignores whatever you've chosen there.

And when you're on ASIO, if windows and your media player are fighting over your adapter (ie: both want an exclusive lock), then disabling the Direct Sound adapter resolves it (ie: in favor of media player). Though when you want to watch youtube you'll need to re-enable it.

Just by setting this I find I'm disabling the adapter much less...

 

[FredA]

Fred, I have a quick question if you dont mind, Ive been reading about AES/EBU cables as I will be making my first one shortly. When wiring yours did you connect the drain wire or the shield to pin 1 of the XLR?
also did you connect it at both ends? I have been reading conflicting opinions on whether to use the copper shield or drain wire for pin 1 of AES/EBU and also some people suggest only connecting one end of the cable to pin 1 and leave the other end not connected. Just curious how you made yours.

Thanks

Yes I did. I always do. I think cable makers do in general but i could be wrong. Acss cables do have the pin connected on both ends as well.

 

[darren700]

Yes I did. I always do. I think cable makersdo in general but could be wrong. Acss cables do have the pin connected on both ends as well.

I assume you mean you connected the Shield to pin 1? or did you connect the drain wire?
Thanks again.

 

[FredA]

I assume you mean you connected the Shield to pin 1? or did you connect the drain wire?
Thanks again.

Only the drain wire.

 

[FredA]

@darren700

Anyway, the shield is an aluminium sheet, so is not meant to be soldered.

 

[Wynnytsky]

ok kids, today's assignment for the day is to wrap a wire (any wire) with aluminum foil and report back to the class what you heard.

 

[nikko510]

I don't change any cables until the DI-20 HE burns out completely.
It changes so much every day that it doesn't make sense.
Once is very good, and the next day is worse, over and over again.

 

[darren700]

@darren700

Anyway, the shield is an aluminium sheet, so is not meant to be soldered.

lol, I didn't know it was aluminum, i just assumed it would be copper.

ok kids, today's assignment for the day is to wrap a wire (any wire) with aluminum foil and report back to the class what you heard.

Welcome to Audiophile 101. But teacher, which brand of aluminum foil gives the best sound? reynolds wrap or alcan?

But back to topic, I am excited to try the Blue Jeans HDMI that @FredA recommended, will see if I can tell a difference vs the Moshou 2.1 cable

 

[Wynnytsky]

But teacher, which brand of aluminum foil gives the best sound? reynolds wrap or alcan?

ah, but the brand is of a fool's concern. The real question is how long must said foil be placed in the freezer before application.

Blue Jeans HDMI that @FredA recommended

yes @FredA I'd also like to take this moment to thank you for recommending this cable that you definitely got before me

 

[soundlogic]

Hello Soundlogic
Can you explain this problem with more information? I mean, how does it sound to recognize it?

I've only had experienced a couple of times an unbalance on the soundstage that I fixed restarting the system, but I didnt worried because it also happened with the Gustard U16 sometimes. I have no idea why.

My DI-20 is sounding great, in parallel mode and internal OCXO, connected to my R8 DAC via AES/EBU cable.

As I am listening to my DI-20HE, connected to an Auralic Aries G2 via Curious cable usb to DI—in parallel mode, connected to a Gustard C16, external clock mode chosen on DI—-HDMI out to PS Audio Directstream Dac....every so often: it can be intervals from 60 seconds to 4-5 minutes... I get a very brief but extremely noticeable sonic anomaly that lasts about a second or less. This sounds as I’ve described earlier as a moment of out of phase/blur of soundstage/where a distinct sonic image in front of me has now gone extreme left and right outside the plane of the speakers. It is very distracting as one who likes to listen with his eyes closed, concentrating on the musical presentation, that just goes wonky for a moment. When this happens several times in a 5 minute period, it ruins my listening experience. Last night I tried the series mode, and listen for approx. 5 minutes...I did not notice the phase anomaly, but due to the vast sonic difference in my system using series mode...NOT MY PREFERENCE...I switched back toParallel mode quite quickly. Someone suggested it might be my HDMI...but I kind of doubt that. Hopefully Kingwa can determine the cause and issue a solution.