Please comment on your experiences with upgraded power cables and whether there is any merit to them...I've just acquired the HR-2 that was without AC cable....do I go cheap or buy a more luxurious cable which may make no difference...??
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Audible differences from upgraded power cables...
- Thread starter Syan25
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Bricolage
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No experiance but I really doubt there is a difference. REmember there is probably hundreds of feet of cable in your house, so it probably wouldn't make much difference.
Willakan
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To quote Uncle Erik from memory (probably partly incorrectly):
"Anyone who suggests that the rules of physics as understood today are waived by a power cord has a *substantial* burden of proof to justify their claims"
So yeah, if physics is BS, go buy all the high-end power cords you can afford. Alternatively, if you're in the minority that believes that modern science might just know better than the editor of Stereophile, save yourself lots of money.
"Anyone who suggests that the rules of physics as understood today are waived by a power cord has a *substantial* burden of proof to justify their claims"
So yeah, if physics is BS, go buy all the high-end power cords you can afford. Alternatively, if you're in the minority that believes that modern science might just know better than the editor of Stereophile, save yourself lots of money.
endless402
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borrow some from a dealer and make your own decision
DaveBSC
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Quote:
borrow some from a dealer and make your own decision
Couldn't have said it better. This thread will fill up with half of the people saying "you audiophools and your power cables, don't you know how dumb you are?" and the other half saying "you measurement freaks and your scope worship, don't you know how deaf you are?". It's always the same, lots of shouting into the wind with no result. In my experience both cables and conditioning are critical elements to a good system. You may not find them to be. Only one way to find out.
Thanks guys - I've bought a cheap upgrade with Wattage connectors - i think it is a VenDenHui Mainsserver Hybrid - but I'm paying less that $100US so it is not much expense at all...
somestranger26
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Quote:
sigh
Quote:
You might try something like the Pangea AC-9, also. 7-gauge, heavily shielded conductors with high quality plugs for under $100 unless you need it really long... you couldn't even make one yourself for that price. If your system is resolving enough you should be able to hear a difference, never mind what humanity's current knowledge of physics tells us to expect.
No experiance but I really doubt there is a difference. REmember there is probably hundreds of feet of cable in your house, so it probably wouldn't make much difference.
sigh
Quote:
Thanks guys - I've bought a cheap upgrade with Wattage connectors - i think it is a VenDenHui Mainsserver Hybrid - but I'm paying less that $100US so it is not much expense at all...
You might try something like the Pangea AC-9, also. 7-gauge, heavily shielded conductors with high quality plugs for under $100 unless you need it really long... you couldn't even make one yourself for that price. If your system is resolving enough you should be able to hear a difference, never mind what humanity's current knowledge of physics tells us to expect.
3 metres is enough
It depends on the device and the only advantage a upgraded power cable can bring is that there normally sheilded and stock 1's aren't, if the power circuits in the device aren't very good then a shielded power cord that blocks EMI/RF will make a slight difference, having massively sized wires or pure silver connectors are just a waste a money, id recommend the standard DSP range here http://markgrantcables.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=45_18 , which are heavily sheilded with 3 layers of shielded, or something made from the Belden 19364 with a cheap plug and connector.
Solidly built - when I move back to the UK - I will be looking him up - price wise quite doable. Thanks!
drez
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If there were audible differences, it takes about a minute to change the cables, in which time any exact audio qualities will be forgotten ie. it is impossible to compare reliably, thoroughly and honestly unless you believe the golden ears...
Uncle Erik
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First, be sure the power cord you're using is electrically safe. Quite a few aftermarket cords - no matter the price - aren't built as well as the typical UL-listed power cord. If the manufacturer doesn't have a UL rating, ask why. Ask if they plan to get a UL rating. If not, why not? Safety first.
Second, be aware that power passes through the cord and is extensively changed by a power supply. Even if a cord is slightly more efficient, it only means that the power supply caps will charge a fraction of a second faster. In other words, it's like filling up a gallon jug of water in 3 seconds versus 2.9995 seconds. After the jug is full, it doesn't matter because the amp should never consume the reserves of the caps. If it does, then it's a poor amp design that has nothing to do with the power cable. Noise? Assuming there is noise (there isn't always noise) the power transformer removes most of it. What the transformer doesn't catch, the capacitors and rectifier filter out. If you have a choke or several in the power supply, those really flatten out the DC. You can have regulators in there, too, for a constant supply of power.
So if a power cord is making a difference, that means your gear has a terrible power supply.
If you hear major differences, then you must contact the manufacturer to let them know that their power supply is poorly engineered. No matter the cord, the B+ going into the circuit should be the same every time. If not, it means you have a bad power supply, not a good cable.
Oh yes, this is all measurable. Don't measure the cord. What you have to do is open up the amp and measure B+ with different power cords.
See for yourself if there's a difference. Go get a $5 DMM (they're good enough), hook up the leads to ground and B+ and see what happens.
Second, be aware that power passes through the cord and is extensively changed by a power supply. Even if a cord is slightly more efficient, it only means that the power supply caps will charge a fraction of a second faster. In other words, it's like filling up a gallon jug of water in 3 seconds versus 2.9995 seconds. After the jug is full, it doesn't matter because the amp should never consume the reserves of the caps. If it does, then it's a poor amp design that has nothing to do with the power cable. Noise? Assuming there is noise (there isn't always noise) the power transformer removes most of it. What the transformer doesn't catch, the capacitors and rectifier filter out. If you have a choke or several in the power supply, those really flatten out the DC. You can have regulators in there, too, for a constant supply of power.
So if a power cord is making a difference, that means your gear has a terrible power supply.
If you hear major differences, then you must contact the manufacturer to let them know that their power supply is poorly engineered. No matter the cord, the B+ going into the circuit should be the same every time. If not, it means you have a bad power supply, not a good cable.
Oh yes, this is all measurable. Don't measure the cord. What you have to do is open up the amp and measure B+ with different power cords.
See for yourself if there's a difference. Go get a $5 DMM (they're good enough), hook up the leads to ground and B+ and see what happens.
Hefty advice - thanks!
Lil' Knight
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sigh
If your system is resolving enough you should be able to hear a difference, never mind what humanity's current knowledge of physics tells us to expect.
Nice :rolleyes:
BrucYSN
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Quote:
First, be sure the power cord you're using is electrically safe. Quite a few aftermarket cords - no matter the price - aren't built as well as the typical UL-listed power cord. If the manufacturer doesn't have a UL rating, ask why. Ask if they plan to get a UL rating. If not, why not? Safety first.
Second, be aware that power passes through the cord and is extensively changed by a power supply. Even if a cord is slightly more efficient, it only means that the power supply caps will charge a fraction of a second faster. In other words, it's like filling up a gallon jug of water in 3 seconds versus 2.9995 seconds. After the jug is full, it doesn't matter because the amp should never consume the reserves of the caps. If it does, then it's a poor amp design that has nothing to do with the power cable. Noise? Assuming there is noise (there isn't always noise) the power transformer removes most of it. What the transformer doesn't catch, the capacitors and rectifier filter out. If you have a choke or several in the power supply, those really flatten out the DC. You can have regulators in there, too, for a constant supply of power.
So if a power cord is making a difference, that means your gear has a terrible power supply.
If you hear major differences, then you must contact the manufacturer to let them know that their power supply is poorly engineered. No matter the cord, the B+ going into the circuit should be the same every time. If not, it means you have a bad power supply, not a good cable.
Oh yes, this is all measurable. Don't measure the cord. What you have to do is open up the amp and measure B+ with different power cords.
See for yourself if there's a difference. Go get a $5 DMM (they're good enough), hook up the leads to ground and B+ and see what happens.
um... What about the DACs?
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