[Mach3]

  Hi Mach3
 
Can you please comment on AMP quality/differences between E1 and Phonitor.
I am asking because I am thinking on getting amp for my LCD-X but not sure if it is worth or to say so: if it will make  big improvement over E1 AMP.
Amps in my consideration are like of SPL Phonitor, Violectric V200/V181/V281.
 
Thanks

 
from yesterday impression, I feel the E1 even with the MUSES01 in the buffer section. The mids sound a bit more forward than the phonitor (giving the impression that the sound stage is more narrow but it isn't) I'm not imply that the mids aren't clear or accurate on the E1 just different. I would say I prefer neutral tonality of the phonitor more. Was much harder to tell when I dropped the hi-gain to low-gain with the header jumper caps. And the more forward vocals were even less pronounce when I tried my HD800 (In high gain). In regards to the Violectric, my friend sold his V200 because he told me that amp make every headphone he own sounded warmer. His opinion that it really only matched well with the HD800 (he did note you lose some slight micro details due to the warmer sound). This pretty much is the generally view with most reviews I've seen.
So if you like warmer sound, pick the V200/281 (both of these very simliar sounding, just the V281 has more grunt and balance output)

 

[Wurstteppich]

Hi,
 
maybe the Muses-02 make a difference here or did you try that already? Right now I am in the situation that I need to decide between the ASUS Essence One MKII Muses and an Oppo HA-1. However in the meanwhile I really got the feeling that the Oppo has the better soundstage, which is much more clear, but still with a kicking bass. Still I am struggling a little bit, since the E1 has also a good build quality, an extra volume knob for the headphone output and of course the lower price (even if exchanging the Muses-01 with the Muses-02 with the DSD kits would bring it closer to the Oppo pricing).

 

[Mach3]

  Hi,
 
maybe the Muses-02 make a difference here or did you try that already? Right now I am in the situation that I need to decide between the ASUS Essence One MKII Muses and an Oppo HA-1. However in the meanwhile I really got the feeling that the Oppo has the better soundstage, which is much more clear, but still with a kicking bass. Still I am struggling a little bit, since the E1 has also a good build quality, an extra volume knob for the headphone output and of course the lower price (even if exchanging the Muses-01 with the Muses-02 with the DSD kits would bring it closer to the Oppo pricing).

 
 
Yeah I've already tried that in the headphone amp (buffer) section. I prefer the MUSES01, IMO I prefer it over the stock LME49720HA too.
 
You don't need the DSD kit if you already own the MKII E1 as it already got the DSD eeprom. Cheaper to just buy the 2x MUSES02 and try it for yourself. Also if you're using the E1 as a DAC only, than you should also populate 3A) RCA Buffer = 1 x LM4562NA or 3B) XLR Buffer = 2 x LM4562NA with MUSES01 depending which output you use.

 

[LSD25]

Anyone know where I can find the A10K potentiometer that will work with this?

 

[cdsa35000]

Would any A10K volume pot work as a replacement for B10K? or are there different ones?
My headphone volume pot makes static noise, crackles really loud when i turn it till 12'o clock. I'm thinking of desoldering it and putting a new one in... either A10K, or swap it with the speaker volume pot.

Gloogle is your bet fiend!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potentiometer

Newer potentiometers will usually be marked with an 'A' for logarithmic taper or a 'B' for linear taper.

If it only crackles when the pot is rotated, then the taper traces is oxidized/dirty.
Just turn the potmeter few dozen times fast from panning L to R and R to L etc. etc. to clean it traces itself!

 

[LSD25]

Gloogle is your bet fiend!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potentiometer
If it only crackles when the pot is rotated, then the taper traces is oxidized/dirty.
Just turn the potmeter few dozen times fast from panning L to R and R to L etc. etc. to clean it traces itself!

Ahhh, too late, I broke it. I had to tinker with it didn't I?

Well, that's how you learn.
 
Well, at first the crackling would go away if i turned it a few times back and forth, but over time it got worse and it wouldn't go away.
 
But anyways, now I tried to open the thing out. I tried to take out the volume knob by turning them, but I turned them too far counterclockwise and now they're loose (not hard stopping), and the volume isn't working anymore. I suppose its broken now?
So I'll have to get these replaced, just gotta find the right ones from online.

 

[cdsa35000]

Ahhh, too late, I broke it. I had to tinker with it didn't I? Well, that's how you learn.

Well, at first the crackling would go away if i turned it a few times back and forth, but over time it got worse and it wouldn't go away.

But anyways, now I tried to open the thing out. I tried to take out the volume knob by turning them, but I turned them too far counterclockwise and now they're loose (not hard stopping), and the volume isn't working anymore. I suppose its broken now?
So I'll have to get these replaced, just gotta find the right ones from online.

They are worn out anyway, get a better audiotype potmeter for better sound.

 

[LSD25]

Will this one work as a replacement? http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-12mm-Alpha-A10K-10K-Audio-Taper-Potentiometer-4-Gang-15mm-Shaft-/261667615876
I hope the pin pitch is right. If so, then I just have to modify it a bit to get the knob fit to the shaft.

 

[Mach3]

Will this one work as a replacement? http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-12mm-Alpha-A10K-10K-Audio-Taper-Potentiometer-4-Gang-15mm-Shaft-/261667615876
I hope the pin pitch is right. If so, then I just have to modify it a bit to get the knob fit to the shaft.

Omg that might actually work

 

[gipsy]

As Asus E1 has really bright LED around power switch I came to easy solution; simple rubber gasket around power button, it works perfectly.
 

 

[Gandah]

   
 
Yeah I've already tried that in the headphone amp (buffer) section. I prefer the MUSES01, IMO I prefer it over the stock LME49720HA too.
 
You don't need the DSD kit if you already own the MKII E1 as it already got the DSD eeprom. Cheaper to just buy the 2x MUSES02 and try it for yourself. Also if you're using the E1 as a DAC only, than you should also populate 3A) RCA Buffer = 1 x LM4562NA or 3B) XLR Buffer = 2 x LM4562NA with MUSES01 depending which output you use.

All this talk makes me want to go out and buy another E1, I miss experimenting with different opamps

 
Quote:

  As Asus E1 has really bright LED around power switch I came to easy solution; simple rubber gasket around power button, it works perfectly.
 

Nice one, I always hated that led

 

 

[Mach3]

Great news for people who own the old E1 without the gain switch.
I spend the whole afternoon comparing the difference between the MUSES Edition and the standard E1 PCB track. 
Turns out it possible to implement the same feature on the old E1 for low gain with a tiny circuit to feed the audio signal through to a 24.9k Ohm resistor.
I'll try and figure out a way to securely mount it on the PCB before posting picture.

 

[Whit3Rav3n]

  Will this one work as a replacement? http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-12mm-Alpha-A10K-10K-Audio-Taper-Potentiometer-4-Gang-15mm-Shaft-/261667615876
I hope the pin pitch is right. If so, then I just have to modify it a bit to get the knob fit to the shaft.

As far as I know the original potentiometer is the alpha rd904 b10k. It has a 6mm shaft. You can buy these here for example: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/ALPHA-RD904-B10K-quadruple-potentiometer-20-mm-half-axial-length/1482759719.html

 

[LSD25]

Just received the MUSES opamps in mail. Now I wait for the potentiometers... another 2 - 3 weeks.. maybe more.
This sucks, can't even test them out since the volume doesn't work lol

 

[Wage]

Does anyone know how to remove the front panel from the Xonar One? I've removed all visible screws but cannot get it off of the volume knobs.

The main reason I need to remove it is to see if I can reseat the volume knobs after turning them too much. They now just turn over and over without stopping (and are left at MAX volume always)