[DMarasovic]

Quote:

  Yes, I neither want to downgrade it, nor brick it...even it is really tempting to look on premade posts for jumpers...when I know that my Cosmic Ears CE6E are about to be finished any time soon.
I had little conversation with Jimmy from junkyard..and he is as well suggesting not to play with jumpers without tracing the PCB to be sure!!
That is out of my actual skill at the moment, I'll leave it as it is for now.
Did order some muses01 and muses02, should be here in Croatia tomorrow, to play with, to feed overclocking hunger.
 
Please advice on op amp configuration...I have:
4x MUSES01
2x MUSES02
5xLME49720NA 
2x OPA2132PA
7x LM4562
6xNE5532
 
So far, without muses1 x 4 , i am on
4xlme49720NA + 2x muses01 with my LCD-X.
Bass is less pronounced and less havy than with 5532..but else sound better.
 
Thanks in advance
 
Gipsy

I use 4xOPA2132PA (LPF)+ 2xLM4562(Buffer) at the moment. Even cleaner sound is with 4xLT1028 + 2xOPA627AU but produce more heat.
I am also from Croatia (Zagreb). Where did you order Muses IC´s from ?
Best regards!
Damir

 

[gipsy]

Nice to have you here
 
I got it from offical distributor for our area...Rutronic Germany.
Funny thing, as I was reading your post, phone rang...it was guy from DHL, infront of my house with 4x muses1 .
And I have day off today...
 
Rolling is about to roll...
If you like to give them a test, I can loan them after some playing with it. Pass me PM if you are interested.
 
Regards
 
Gipsy

 

[DMarasovic]

  I got it from offical distributor for our area...Rutronic Germany.

Pricing looks affordable

Quote:

Rolling is about to roll...
If you like to give them a test, I can loan them after some playing with it. Pass me PM if you are interested.
 
Regards
 
Gipsy

Thank you, of course I´m interested; mail is on the run.
 
Best regards,
Damir

 

[Mach3]

  Thanks Mach3
 
Do you have a link where to get it??
I was thinking tu put something like this toggle switch 
 
on the back of the case, above USB connector,,,just, I am not sure if it will be possible to find DPDT toggle switch, for my needs,  which will be even smaller and easyer to fit..
 
Thanks in advance
 
gipsy

 
You can't use that toggle switch as it only short one position (meaning only left or right will have sound)
A dip switch is what should be used instead, although I advised against it as there no fool proof way of mounting it to the back of the E1.
Not to mention you need special tool for the case work to cut out the hole so it look professional.
You won't want to do a sloppy job and degrade the quality of the E1 as DMarasovic mentioned.
 
Anyway if you want to go ahead and do the mod with straight pin and header jumper caps.
I will provide you with all the detail on what you need as I have completed the mod with a friend E1
The key is using the right tools
 
To desolder, I suggest a solder bath as you can simply remove the 2 wires shorting the hi gain. Then drop in the dual row straight pin
 
On ebay search for solder bath

 
On ebay search for 2.54mm pitch 2 x 40 Pin Male Double Row Pin Header Strip

 
On ebay search for 2.54mm Header Jumper Cap

 
On ebay search for 2.54mm Pitch 8 pins 4 Positions Ways Slide Type DIP Switch (Optional if you don't want to use jumper header caps)

 
End result

 

[gipsy]

Hi Mach3
 
Amazing...you did it already...it means it should work!!
Thanks for very detailed instruction and your time.
As for toggle switch I was thinking on this (M2042) 4 pole double throw miniature or even sub-miniature switch to be connected as per my drawing.. and NKK miniature toggle switch series B snapshoot:

I think it should work...
There is a place between headphones volume and headphones socket where it can be installed,,,very tight, but just 3-4 cm from hardwired jumpers.
Please check if this idea is OK??
 
It took me some time to figure out solder bath bat this is what you meant??
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sHL0a80_oJc
 
I think I mostly like your dip switch idea "On ebay search for 2.54mm Pitch 8 pins 4 Positions Ways Slide Type DIP Switch (Optional if you don't want to use jumper header caps)"
as I always hated fishing for jumper caps felt down on motherboard as I was trying to reset cmos or something like that..and it is simpliest one.
Question is, BIG question actually, if hot swapping (on the fly switching) gain jumpers will brick the board or maybe just wouldn't work!??
 
Thanks
 
Gipsy

 

[Mach3]

  Hi Mach3
 
Amazing...you did it already...it means it should work!!
Thanks for very detailed instruction and your time.
As for toggle switch I was thinking on this (M2042) 4 pole double throw miniature or even sub-miniature switch to be connected as per my drawing.. and NKK miniature toggle switch series B snapshoot:
 
I think it should work...
There is a place between headphones volume and headphones socket where it can be installed,,,very tight, but just 3-4 cm from hardwired jumpers.
Please check if this idea is OK??
 
It took me some time to figure out solder bath bat this is what you meant??
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sHL0a80_oJc
 
I think I mostly like your dip switch idea "On ebay search for 2.54mm Pitch 8 pins 4 Positions Ways Slide Type DIP Switch (Optional if you don't want to use jumper header caps)"
as I always hated fishing for jumper caps felt down on motherboard as I was trying to reset cmos or something like that..and it is simpliest one.
Question is, BIG question actually, if hot swapping (on the fly switching) gain jumpers will brick the board or maybe just wouldn't work!??
 
Thanks
 
Gipsy

 
Ideally if you're good with soldering I'm planning on soldering the DIP switch directly to the straight pin so no more jumpers.
Trick with the hot swapping to avoid board damage is to be quick.
If you're too paranoid to do that, you can also solder the straight pins one by one to avoid any damage to the board.

 

[Wurstteppich]

Did anyone by chance compared the muses edition to the Oppo HA-1? I am wondering if it is just me who feels like the sound of the Oppo is more clear and natural compared to the E1 Muses. Also wondering if an upgrade to the Muses-02 would bring mich difference?

 

[Mach3]

Did anyone by chance compared the muses edition to the Oppo HA-1? I am wondering if it is just me who feels like the sound of the Oppo is more clear and natural compared to the E1 Muses. Also wondering if an upgrade to the Muses-02 would bring mich difference?

Are you comparing the amp/dac section on both?

 

[Gandah]

Did anyone by chance compared the muses edition to the Oppo HA-1? I am wondering if it is just me who feels like the sound of the Oppo is more clear and natural compared to the E1 Muses. Also wondering if an upgrade to the Muses-02 would bring mich difference?

I was expecting a lot from the Oppo ha-1, it really didn't do anything for me, sound wise I found it to be clear yes, but extremely boring and not engaging at all.  However the audition was at a meet and wasn't using my own phones, also using the PM-1, so maybe I shouldn't be so hash and give it another spin next time
 
PS: I couldn't believe how hot it got you could literally fry a egg on top

 

[Mach3]

Did anyone by chance compared the muses edition to the Oppo HA-1? I am wondering if it is just me who feels like the sound of the Oppo is more clear and natural compared to the E1 Muses. Also wondering if an upgrade to the Muses-02 would bring mich difference?

Can I ask what headphone you were listening to as well.

 

[Mach3]

Just spent the whole afternoon comparing XLR output and AMP section between Asus Essence One with 11x MUSES01 versus the Asus Essence One MUSES Edition. 
I would conclude, MUSES01 opamps in the XLR output stage is a clear improvement over the LM4562NA opamps found in the stock MUSES edition. It was being feed to the SPL Phonitor.
Switching between the HE-500 and the ATH-W5000. I notice overall increase detail while not sounding artificial or analytical, slight improve in wider sound stage.
(XLR Cables used was made by Nakamichi)
 
 
 

 

[Wurstteppich]

I am using the Beyerdynamic T1 and comparing both AMP and DAC to the Oppo HA-1. I like the E1 for having the extra headphone volume knob, it's compact design, for being such a tank (well built) and the less price tag of course. However my first impression was that the Oppo sounds much more clear and detailed. Maybe it's more bright, but it doesn't seem to be too bright to me, just the right amount to create an impressive soundstage. I am using the E1 Muses MKII edition at the moment, but also have the standard MKII edition here. Currently I am thinking to check the Muses-02 in the standard edition to see if I get a better or at least similar sound to the Oppo. Then it would even have my preferred color (the Muses MKII is just offered in silver, but I am heaving everything except the headphone in black). The E1 seems a very solid device to me with a good price and nice features. However I am struggling to keep it over the Oppo, since to me (my personal feeling) it brought me the better sound.

 

[gipsy]

Hi Mach3
 
Can you please comment on AMP quality/differences between E1 and Phonitor.
I am asking because I am thinking on getting amp for my LCD-X but not sure if it is worth or to say so: if it will make  big improvement over E1 AMP.
Amps in my consideration are like of SPL Phonitor, Violectric V200/V181/V281.
 
Thanks

 

[endeeinn]

I have  an E1 with 6 Muses01 in Slot 1 I/V and Slot 2 buffers with a LME49720HA's in posions 3a and 3b and the sound was great but a little too forward with the mid-highs and a solid but slightly light low-mid bass.  I purchased and just received a DSD upgrade kit which comes with Muses02's for the Slot 2 buffers.   I exchanged the Muses01 in the Slot 2 buffers for the  Muses02's that came with the kit, installed the new drivers and just began listening.   The low-mid bass has now filled out and the upper highs seem much more detailed, cleaner and not as seemingly shouting.   More listening is needed to determine if the system still sounds great after long term listening.   If all pans out and I want to stay with the set-up my thoughts are what to do with the 2 extra Muses01 that were liberated from the Slot 2 buffers.   Are the Muses01 usable in positions 3a and 3b and has anyone done it?  If so what are the impressions?   I'm  thinking after doing some more long term listening I will experiment with the Muses01 in 3a and  3b but only if the group here feels they won't do  harm to the E1 or the Muses01's themselves.

 

[DMarasovic]

  I have  an E1 with 6 Muses01 in Slot 1 I/V and Slot 2 buffers with a LME49720HA's in posions 3a and 3b and the sound was great but a little too forward with the mid-highs and a solid but slightly light low-mid bass.  I purchased and just received a DSD upgrade kit which comes with Muses02's for the Slot 2 buffers.   I exchanged the Muses01 in the Slot 2 buffers for the  Muses02's that came with the kit, installed the new drivers and just began listening.   The low-mid bass has now filled out and the upper highs seem much more detailed, cleaner and not as seemingly shouting.   More listening is needed to determine if the system still sounds great after long term listening.   If all pans out and I want to stay with the set-up my thoughts are what to do with the 2 extra Muses01 that were liberated from the Slot 2 buffers.   Are the Muses01 usable in positions 3a and 3b and has anyone done it?  If so what are the impressions?   I'm  thinking after doing some more long term listening I will experiment with the Muses01 in 3a and  3b but only if the group here feels they won't do  harm to the E1 or the Muses01's themselves.

You are free to put Muses 01 into any slot - there could be no harm.
Regards