Any opinions / reviews on Gemtune APPJ PA1502A
Sep 4, 2018 at 5:08 AM Post #676 of 876
Right, I strongly suspect a faulty connection, most likely on one of the 6 caps you put in, coupling, cathode, or cathode bypasses. The fact that you wiggle the pot only moves the whole PCB, I think if you wiggle any of the tubes the same thing might happen. You might be able to find the culprit by wiggling the tubes and the one causing the worst drop off might be where the fault is.

You will have to take off the chassis top and bottom again, half an hour or so after you've switched off to reduce any chances of danger from the undischarged caps. Never touch anything inside while it is switched on. Look at every connection you made and see if it looks loose, or coming away from the board. You might have soldered over a lifted pad, which is the round connection onto the board, so it would be difficult to see any fault. Sometimes a cold solder will cause this problem, and they are difficult to see. The solder joints should look shiny, not dull or rough looking. If you gently pull at each connection you might see any loose movement. If it is a lifted pad then you will have to make a proper repair…. I had to do this. Lifted pads can happen when you pull out old components, or if you put too much heat or pressure on the joint when soldering.

The best way to find a faulty joint is by using a multimeter and testing for continuity, but since there are so few new joints made with these mods you should be able to detect anything faulty easily. Anything suspect should be resoldered. Make sure no wires are touching or loose.

Also check the wires are not broken when you put back the chassis top plate. Also make sure there's no blobs of solder lying around, they can cause shorts.

Can you take any pics of the joints.

Really any soldering should be checked with a multimeter for continuity with all connected components which would show up any problems, because if you don't do this you won't know if there's a problem, and you could short out the board and components.

If in doubt this would be an easy job for an electronics engineer to fix.
 
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Sep 4, 2018 at 10:24 AM Post #677 of 876
20180904_203550.jpg
its a mess down there
 
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Sep 4, 2018 at 3:06 PM Post #679 of 876
its a mess down there

.....yes.... Hi jekjek!

I'm afraid there are a few problems here…!!!

upload_2018-9-4_19-52-26.png


Just to take one thing that I can see, where there is no pad to solder to you can see that there isn't a proper connection here, you might have been lucky and made contact on the other side of the board, looks the same for the coupling cap. I'm a bit surprised that the amp worked at all frankly. Seriously I would advise you to spend a relatively small amount of cash and get this properly repaired because it might stop working for good otherwise.

Sorry to have to say that but you won't be able to enjoy it until the job is done properly, I don't know what you think?
 
Sep 4, 2018 at 10:27 PM Post #680 of 876
.....yes.... Hi jekjek!

I'm afraid there are a few problems here…!!!



Just to take one thing that I can see, where there is no pad to solder to you can see that there isn't a proper connection here, you might have been lucky and made contact on the other side of the board, looks the same for the coupling cap. I'm a bit surprised that the amp worked at all frankly. Seriously I would advise you to spend a relatively small amount of cash and get this properly repaired because it might stop working for good otherwise.

Sorry to have to say that but you won't be able to enjoy it until the job is done properly, I don't know what you think?

I think I have to re do the solder job my self and see if i can get it fix

Labor repair service in Singapore is not cheap

Thanks for your reply Baron!

I appreciate it
 
Sep 5, 2018 at 4:17 AM Post #681 of 876
I think I have to re do the solder job my self and see if i can get it fix

Labor repair service in Singapore is not cheap

Thanks for your reply Baron!

I appreciate it

OK, take it slowly step by step, post pics and we will try to help.

There are plenty of resources online, youtube soldering videos etc.

Good luck!

:).
 
Sep 9, 2018 at 11:30 AM Post #683 of 876
I bought an APPJ PA1502A to drive my Audeze LCD-3s via Nordost Heimdall 2 cables. I paid 185 euros including shipping and think it is one of the best HiFi bargains I've ever bought. I upgraded the power tubes to cryo treated Genalex Gold Lion CV511 / 6V6G, and the input tube to a Psvane 12AX7. I am certainly a fan of tube amps with speaker systems, but I had never heard a tube amp driving headphones before. The was a large upgrade between driving the LCD-3s direct from my Chord Hugo and from the APPJ. More treble resolution with the Audezes sounding almost like electrostatics by comparison. The bass and dynamics seem fine and the doesn't seem to be any lack of power from the PA1502A

I've had a Miniwatt N3 speaker amp for about 8 years which is also an amazing bargain. I use Psvane EL84s and a TJ Full Music 12AX7 in that amp, fitted with EAT Cool Dampers. It drives a pair of Tandy LX5 speakers with the Linaeum ribbon-like tweeter and sounds great.

I've replaced the metal feet in both amps with 3M Acoustfeet, and here are the pair of them sitting on SSC Minibase stands:

IMG_20180909_155453669.jpg





This picture shows the 3M Acoustifeet - I unscrewed the standard metal feet and then needed to cut small holes in the Acoustifeet to accomodate the screws on the amp bases.

IMG_20180909_153910905.jpg
 
Sep 9, 2018 at 5:05 PM Post #684 of 876
Yes that's right, after reading the whole thread I decided that the changes indicated from the other mod were not for me.

If you have ordered adaptors for the 6BG6 "G"s then I hope you have ordered them with longer external wires than normal.
The ones I got initially were only suitable for 6BG6 "GA"s. The ones I have on order now are 20mm longer.

p.s. if your 14AF7's are NOS I recommend at least 3 days burn in, they take a while.

I ran into the same issue with the adapters I ordered off of eBay; also not long enough to reach the top of my 6BG6 G tubes. I now have to to reorder adapters with longer leads. Could you share where you were able to purchase adapters with longer leads that can reach the top of the 6BG6 G?
Thank you,
Mecii
 
Sep 9, 2018 at 6:03 PM Post #685 of 876
I bought an APPJ PA1502A to drive my Audeze LCD-3s via Nordost Heimdall 2 cables. I paid 185 euros including shipping and think it is one of the best HiFi bargains I've ever bought. I upgraded the power tubes to cryo treated Genalex Gold Lion CV511 / 6V6G, and the input tube to a Psvane 12AX7. I am certainly a fan of tube amps with speaker systems, but I had never heard a tube amp driving headphones before. The was a large upgrade between driving the LCD-3s direct from my Chord Hugo and from the APPJ. More treble resolution with the Audezes sounding almost like electrostatics by comparison. The bass and dynamics seem fine and the doesn't seem to be any lack of power from the PA1502A

I've had a Miniwatt N3 speaker amp for about 8 years which is also an amazing bargain. I use Psvane EL84s and a TJ Full Music 12AX7 in that amp, fitted with EAT Cool Dampers. It drives a pair of Tandy LX5 speakers with the Linaeum ribbon-like tweeter and sounds great.

Ha, I see you've got a pair, headphone-speaker APPJ combo, I thought of doing this, looks great!

Is that right your Tandy LX5's are only 81db, and yet work well with the 3.5w Miniwatt, that finally confirms what I've been saying all along that the amp drives my 87db speakers very well.

I had the TJ Full Music tubes as well.

Finally are you really saying that your APPJ is a large upgrade from the Chord Hugo, amazing information. Perhaps now people will believe!
 
Sep 9, 2018 at 6:48 PM Post #686 of 876
Ha, I see you've got a pair, headphone-speaker APPJ combo, I thought of doing this, looks great!

Is that right your Tandy LX5's are only 81db, and yet work well with the 3.5w Miniwatt, that finally confirms what I've been saying all along that the amp drives my 87db speakers very well.

I had the TJ Full Music tubes as well.

Finally are you really saying that your APPJ is a large upgrade from the Chord Hugo, amazing information. Perhaps now people will believe!

The Tandy's are actually quite efficient, maybe 88-89db or similar, and they are very easy to drive as the crossovers consist of a single inductor and a single capacitor. I upgraded the crossover components with a better cap and an air cored inductor and rewired them internally with Chord Carnival cable. The Miniwatt drives them really well.

I think the TJ Full Music sounds as good as the Psvane 12AX7, but one I was using in my phone preamp failed after about six months and so maybe the quality control isn't as good as the Psvanes.

The APPJ PA1502A is well up to driving the LCD-3s - it isn't that the Hugo sounds bad with the LCD-3s, just that the APPJ sounds so good. I don't think I will upgrade the coupling caps like several people on this thread have done, as I'm not confident I have sufficient electronics knowledge to do that. But I'm pretty sure the improved feet and SSC Minibase stands have helped with the bass tightness and dynamics of both the the speaker and headphone amps.

Here is a picture of my completed desktop setup with the LX5s on IsoAcoustics stands:

IMG_20180909_155615252.jpg
 
Sep 10, 2018 at 2:08 AM Post #687 of 876
The Tandy's are actually quite efficient, maybe 88-89db or similar, and they are very easy to drive as the crossovers consist of a single inductor and a single capacitor. I upgraded the crossover components with a better cap and an air cored inductor and rewired them internally with Chord Carnival cable. The Miniwatt drives them really well.

I'm wrong about the efficiency of the Tandy LX5s - I've done some searching for old reviews and they are indeed only 83db. It might be because they are omnidirectional with a simple crossover that the Miniwatt N3 has no trouble at all driving them.
 
Sep 10, 2018 at 1:42 PM Post #688 of 876
I ran into the same issue with the adapters I ordered off of eBay; also not long enough to reach the top of my 6BG6 G tubes. I now have to to reorder adapters with longer leads. Could you share where you were able to purchase adapters with longer leads that can reach the top of the 6BG6 G?
Thank you,
Mecii

If you're handy with a soldering iron you can make your own 6BG6 adapters using this kit (http://www.vacuumtubes.com/6BG6.html). The seller will sell the adapters separately of the 6BG6GA tubes he's selling, and may be able to assemble them for you for a fee if you ask. The SND Tube Sales adapters are what I use for my 6BG6Gs and they reach the anode cap just fine. Plus, I have plenty of wire left over to make my own adapters. One of my upcoming projects will be to make a 6/12SN7 to 7/14F7 octal-to-loctal adapter.
 
Sep 15, 2018 at 9:23 AM Post #690 of 876

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