[Thaddy]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Azure With what amp do you use the line-out? And would using a custom EQ on the Karma with an amp be a problem (I can't live without my custom EQ)? So, Ty will modify the amp to meet a particular headphone's needs? To what extent does he modify the amp to do this?

I was using the Epsilon with the Karma's line out. I didn't use an EQ just for the fact that I didn't want to add or take away anything, thus letting the amp create it's own signature sound (does this make sense?).

As far as customization, I'm not the one to ask if you want specific details. Either PM him (Zemo), or I believe he has other means of contact on his site.

 

[Azure]

So you were using a Y-Adapter to plug it into the Epsilon's mini jack? Which Y-Adapter did you use (Good quality one?)? Should I or should I not use my custom EQ with the amp? Would it sound weird since there'd be two different sound signatures at work?

EDIT: I've been reading up on using 2 different headphones with one amp and I'm starting to think that this might be pointless as many are saying its not safe. So, what should I do for A-Bing? The A500s are 64ohms and the MS-1s are 32ohms. Using both at the same time would be a big problem, right?

Zemo says the Mu is supposed to be the same level as the PIMETA or better, right? Doesn't the Mu come with dual AD823 op-amps and JMT's PIMETA comes with AD8610/8620? Isn't it true that AD8610 (ground) AD8620 (gain) > Dual AD826 by a large margin?

So, right now it's a 3-way battle: JMT PIMETA vs. Z-Audio Mu vs. Xenos 3HA. Has nobody tested out the NE5532 op-amp that is in the 3HA?

 

[Azure]

Bump

 

[Azure]

So to confirm: The sound difference I will get with an amp will be relatively small (How small? What differences would I note?) with the A500s?

So, right now I'm thinking about getting one of the following:

Z-Audio Mu - $110
Xenos 3HA - $129
Shellbrook Maxi Moy - $145 ($20 included for the AC adapter)

Opinions?

 

[Azure]

Heh, I got greedy and decided to sacrifice some other things so I could spend more on the amp. Only at head-fi

So, now the new budget is ~$200. Looking for something for use with the A500s and eventually the Senn HD600s. I'd like it to be portable in the sense that it can use batteries. I DON'T CARE HOW BIG IT IS! If it is good enough, it might be okay that it can't use batteries. Input: Any, though RCA would be nice as I wouldn't need to get a Y-Cable for my Karma. What do you recommend?

 

[Little J040]

I use my SR125s with my supermacro, and It brings out a lot more detail and accuracy. Also the bass is punchier and what not. Granted It may be too much for your budget but the SM1, 2, or 3, are all Great amps. And The Grado's do get better from amplification, more noticeable from SR125 and on howevver

 

[Azure]

The Xin SuperMacro looks good, but I could probably only afford the base model "lite" model. But I'd have to pay $29-$39 extra for a better opamp (8610 or 627). Plus, I don't like getting the "lite" versions of things because I always feel that I'm missing out on a LOT and that it will always be inferior to something that isn't "lite" but is in the same pricerange (The only "lite" that I'd like is Gilmore Lite since so many people have it and recommend it). Also, what's with the two knobs on the back?

So, what other amps in my pricerange? Here are some amps that I've found:
Meier Audio - Porta Corda MkII - $215
Upgraded Portaphile V2^2 (DC Jack + 2 buffers per channel) - $235 (What happened to the Portaphile Mini? And why does it have a higher pricerange than the non-mini in the amps thread?)
SYMPHONY II Headphone Amplifier - $149
Shellbrook Labs - Super Maxi Moy Signature Edition - $235 ($20 extra for AC)
Z-Audio - Lambda - $170

BTW, what's all this "Class A" stuff about?

EDIT: This thread is now about what amp for use with the A500s, not the Alessandros/Grados.

 

[htbyron]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Azure BTW, what's all this "Class A" stuff about?

Azure: Here are two threads that may (or may not

) help explain -- I was wondering the same thing recentlyt & I'm still not sure I understand it!

http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/showt...hlight=class+A
http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/showt...hlight=class+A

Hope this helps.
Tom

 

[Azure]

Okay, I've decided to not get any of the other ones and just focus on either the Signature Edition Maxi Moy or the Z-Audio Lambda. Which one do you think I should get for the A500s? I have to say that the Lambda looks like it is built with a very cheap case. I know aesthetics are only so important, but it just looks so cheaply made and I find the casing to be incredibly ugly and out of proportion. Do you think I could have him make it in a different case?

 

[Thaddy]

I'll be the first one to tell you that behind the freakish appearance (it's even not that bad) of the Lambda, is an absolutely wonderful sounding amp. I had this last week as a demo at the Pittsburgh meet and was really happy with the sound. I mean, it brought back memories of my PPA, which was solid-state goodness.

Don't believe me? Check out the Oregon meet here. These guys ranked the Lambda among the "big guys" like the SM3 and the SR-71. More specifically, this post and this post are good reads.

Hope this helps!

 

[Azure]

The lambda seems like it'd be really good, but I really can't stand the look of the case/volume knob. Do you think if I paid extra he would put it in a different case and add a better looking volume knob? Those input/output jacks also look like they are cheap quality. Think I could pay extra to get better looking ones? Please note that I am making these aesthetic comments in comparison to the other amp I'm interested in, the Maxi Moy:

Also, to the lambda owners: What is on the backside of the lambda? A jack for the AC? How many/what type of batteries does it use and is there a compartment made for them? Do you have to open the whole thing just to replace the batteries? The Maxi Moy runs off of two 9V batteries; if the lambda only uses 1, doesn't the Maxi Moy have quite a big advantage there (Battery life isn't important to me; as long as it uses batteries I'm fine)? And lastly, what about the opamps used in the lambda? The lambda uses AD823 and AD8055 opamps (2 different ones?) while the Maxi Moy SE uses dual OPA627 opamps. Isn't it very true that dual 627s > AD823 + AD8055?

EDIT: I'd like to mention that I already looked at the Z-Audio website and couldn't find the answers to these questions on there. I've also tried talking to Zemo on AIM but he doesn't respond to any of my messages.

Also, I'd like to make it clear that when I say that I don't care about the size of the amp, I'd actually prefer a bigger and larger amp. My father wouldn't be too thrilled about me spending $200 on such a small and dinky looking thing, so the bigger and sleeker it looks (Along with heavier), the better off I'll be.

 

[rickcr42]

Quote:

BTW, what's all this "Class A" stuff about?

The simple way to say it is in full class a the amp uses the same amount of power no matter if there is signal or not,if the signal is at a high level or a low level and the entire time it is on will be draining the batteries and is why mostly unsuitable for portable operation.The reason ?
The amplifying device is always "turned on" to full power no matter what the input signal or lack of.Because of this there is no "on state" or "off state" of the amplifying device so it will never have to respond by turning "on" to an input signal.

ALL other classes of amplification have an "off" state which must turn on in response to the input .the degree of this is determined by how far into class A it is biased or if it is at all.Class A/B is biased to class-A up to a pre-chosen point then above that point (like for peak music events) the additional power must be "turned on".
Full class -B is always either on or off and is not a good choice for audio-especailly if low level detail is important.Off then in response to signal "on" then no signal totally off again.Always playing Catch Up !

that is about as simle as I can say it

 

[Azure]

A little confused: Would the lambda/Maxi Moy be considered Class A even though they have a power on/off switch? So, a true Class A amp would start draining your batteries IMMEDIATELY when they are inserted and draw power from an outlet IMMEDAITELY when plugged in?

 

[rickcr42]

Quote:

A little confused: Would the lambda/Maxi Moy be considered Class A even though they have a power on/off switch? So, a true Class A amp would start draining your batteries IMMEDIATELY when they are inserted and draw power from an outlet IMMEDAITELY when plugged in?

Class-A operation only has to do with the actual amplifying device be it a tube,a transisitor,an fet/mosfet and nothing to do with if the power switch is on or off.

With class-a once you turn the power switch to "on" the amp is drawing full current at all times and never shuts off until the power switch is turned off and if it has a signal or no signal does not change the amount of current draw.Class-B is always off even with power on if there is no audio signal.Class A/B has some of its range "on" but the majority is reserved for peak events.the amount is determined by how far into class-A it is biased.

An opamp CAN NOT be full class-A unless it is a discrete design.one with individual transistors and not an I.C. Chip.You can bias the output stage partially into class-A but the chip will not be and can not be a Class-A amp no matter what tricks are applied because you have no access to the internal transistors of which there are hundreds to thousands depending on the density of the substrate.

 

[Azure]

Some more general amp questions:
Is there anything wrong (Sound quality wise) with running an EQ on your mp3 player through an amp? Is it okay to have a custom bass setting on your mp3 player and then running through an amp and use the amp's bass boost to tweak the bass even more? And lastly, is it safe to use a headphone amp with sound devices other than headphones (i.e. Computer speakers)?