[ramachandra]

"Put the original capacitors back on but the humm does not go away so now i am wondering what is the problem!?" Once happened with me. I had to scratch off the green film from a wider area for the two 10000uF capacitors to have a bigger surface to solder. Lets hope I'm not wrong and the caps you got fine, Check the capacitance and ESR if you can.
 
 
"ps. on the z5500 unit. all the satellites play loud and clear. just hardly any sub. very subtle bass" So it is only the Sub not the whole system. Two OpAmps and two TDA Amp belong to the Sub, if one of the 4 components are not functioning the result is what you experience.

 

[ramachandra]

A-Force
 
I think there is no mistake except mine with the alignment of the (6,7,8,9,10) pins on the image, they should keep left. You are right.
Is your system not the older pre Pid 636? Because that need another cable like this: http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv107/przano/Schematics/NoPots_zpsff820a87.jpg

 

[EdgeSRB]

@ ramachandra I have opened control pod and everything is looking fine, no burned chips or anything... Just one note, when i connect headphones to the control pod but I dont plug them fully and than i CAN hear sound on them at the same time even in direct mode or PL2 Movie /PL2 Music. I can hear difference in this modes but still CAN'T hear anything on the speakers except in stereo/stereo2 mode, does this mean that control pod is fine and all chips (the control pod doesn't shows headphone mode on the screen )? I sow that my control pod have capacitor that I haven't seen anywhere on the web... the pic is not mine but everything is the same except the bare wire (i think its the ground wire) is not connected  on the bottom of the other wires like on others control pod's http://www.dodaj.rs/f/2G/pa/CJEst1Q/7319cee4logitechz5500ins.jpg  I have solderet that ground wire to the last hole but same thing no sound in 6 chnl direct or PL2 modes, just stereo, and upon powering z5500 it transformer is making weird noises so i unsolder it... P.S what pid number is your z5500?

 

[A-Force]

RAMACHANDRA mine is "PID R022" the first system(it is the system that cannot be turned off...instead of standby it has  headphone mode and in order to close it you have to turn off the switch on the sub) and the second is r837. so... i guess it should work on the second one. for the first what should i change? in the schematic you show me it has an 7805 voltage regulator...do i need to order this in order to work?

 

[EdgeSRB]

@A-Force  Yes you need that voltage regulator in order to z5500 work, it converts +18v to +5v. You should check with multimeter vga plug on the sub and find pin with +18v and make bypass cable and add voltage regulator like on schematics that ramachandra posted. I found on other forum pinout for z5500 pid743 I think its the same for your sub or pod. Good luck.

Shielded

Yellow - Left Front - 5
Blue/Black - Centre - 4
Black/Yellow - Left Rear - 3
Grey - Sub - 2
Brown - Right Rear - 1
Purple - Right Front - 9
Black - Neg - 15
Red - Positive - 14

Non-Shielded 

Red - +8v Logic - 10
White - Enable - 8
Blue - Enable - 7
Orange - Enable - 6
Light Green - Ground - 13 
White Black - MUTE - 12
Green - On/OFF - 11

 

[DaddioJ]

guys who likes the tweeter mod?  

 
 

 

 

 

[ramachandra]

EdgeSRB
 
Try the digital connection, if it work better than nothing. Otherwise you need to find repair men or somebody with a scope and the skill to use it to determine what is wrong. A scope can reveal where the signal is stopping. After that there is a chance to work on the problem.
 
A-Force
 
The first number of the Pid show the year of production and the two others is the week in that year. As I know the first Z5500 made in 2004 and remain in production until 2012. Because the production not covered a full decade there was no need to come up with a 4 digit Pid number. Your system the PID R022 is made in May 2010, and the R837 is made in September 2008. For example a Pid 636 is made in September 2006 and that time the design was changed to the new from the old version and there is no big change inside since.
So the cable have to work on any new Z since the date. It must have proper shielding and the ground connected on both end, and you need to keep it away from power cords because can pick up weird noises and the length also play some role. Obviously the on/off is working for you, so try to focus to the two front channels in the beginning to make it work, even without the resistors. If still no luck you can get one cable from eBay.
 
DaddioJ
 
I definitely like it 

With 2.2uF Nichicon ES it will improve further.

 

[DaddioJ]

  EdgeSRB
 
Try the digital connection, if it work better than nothing. Otherwise you need to find repair men or somebody with a scope and the skill to use it to determine what is wrong. A scope can reveal where the signal is stopping. After that there is a chance to work on the problem.
 
A-Force
 
The first number of the Pid show the year of production and the two others is the week in that year. As I know the first Z5500 made in 2004 and remain in production until 2012. Because the production not covered a full decade there was no need to come up with a 4 digit Pid number. Your system the PID R022 is made in May 2010, and the R837 is made in September 2008. For example a Pid 636 is made in September 2006 and that time the design was changed to the new from the old version and there is no big change inside since.
So the cable have to work on any new Z since the date. It must have proper shielding and the ground connected on both end, and you need to keep it away from power cords because can pick up weird noises and the length also play some role. Obviously the on/off is working for you, so try to focus to the two front channels in the beginning to make it work, even without the resistors. If still no luck you can get one cable from eBay.
 
DaddioJ
 
I definitely like it 

With 2.2uF Nichicon ES it will improve further.

 
i got a 2.2 in there now but not a Nichicon.  also i ordered some new tweeters to test make it more of a finished product. my Z906 came today and i must admit. it sounds really FULL and awesome! i was expecting to be disappointed but i was not.! but heres the question. is it worth modding the caps. and opamps now that i am going to have a tweeter setup with the original satellites? i will have more pictures when thats done. also with all this glue i am not sure if its worth the headache. there are some Nichicon caps in there but not all. and nothing special it seems
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[EdgeSRB]

  EdgeSRB
 
Try the digital connection, if it work better than nothing. Otherwise you need to find repair men or somebody with a scope and the skill to use it to determine what is wrong. A scope can reveal where the signal is stopping. After that there is a chance to work on the problem.
 

Thanks on the answer, I will try with optical cable. Can you please tell me PID of your Control Pod, I think that maybe the wires in my pod is not on the correct places, because I sow on some forum that one guy bought replacement Control pod PID 750 for his woofer PID 748 and he only heave sound in Stereo/Stereo x2 ,just like me... Maybe the wires need to be soldered on different places in pod... If you have pre 636  control pod can you please take a picture of the wires so I could compare to my pod?! 

P.S on other forum i sow this... He have 2 z5500 one with big Pre amp board(dead Control pod) and other with small (with working Control Pod).
"Ok so i opened up both systems to see how I need to wire this up.
Here are pics..
The one with the HUGE riser pre-amp card is the old one, then the one with the small card is the new one. Big difference eh? To combat line noise they added a magnetto level out spikes on the AC voltage aswell as a few inline caps to eventhings out (top left hand corner of new amp).

Now here is my issue. After tinkering with the old one I can only run Stereo and Stereo X2 with my new control pod (The new setcan do everything ofcourse). So I figured it was a wire difference. Both amps have the SAME colour wires and numbering system. I only found 1 difference between the two. There is a Yellow and Yellow-Black wire that is switched. On the new one its WA115-WA113 (respectively) and on the old one its WA113-WA115. I couldn't follow the leads as it goes through an excess of mosfets and controllers. Could this be whats stopping me from using surround? I figure stereo is a direct connection which is why ithas no problem working but I need to go through different areas of the amp to get surround? Even using direct sound and not the built into the amp sound? Oh and their new design took the controllers off of the giant riser pre-amp card and put them on the main amp board...this is how they were able to make it smaller.
" 
Could replacing position of those 2 wires could solve my problem? Sorry if I bothering you...

 

[DaddioJ]

new tweeters. new mod. more of a finished product. i didn't have a stepping bit. so its a tiny bit unfinished. i will get the bit before i do the rest so they look perfect. still have to put it back together. and solder the capacitor
 
 

 

[DaddioJ]

omg! i cant believe how the speakers sound with this tweeter! def worth the upgrade!  Dayton Audio  ND16FA-6

 

[ramachandra]

DaddioJ
 
The Z906 can benefit from a mod like any gear without audograde caps, still I would not like to working on it just to see how risky to remove the black stuff spilled over the SMD, and the tight spaces for the new capacitors is not inspiring either. In my eyes the whole system is a creation of money saving because the design aim the opposite direction what is necessary for good audio. Switching power supply, plenty SMD on the PCB is not on the wishlist of the audiophiles. The class-D amplifiers evolved in the recent years, still a good question how much compared to the old existing parts in a good setup. The Nichicons in the PSU probably from the PW series and OK for music, with the TEAPOs the Logitech is close touch with the bottom of reliability. If you decide to mod this system some parts may not like the 1:1 swap to audiograde caps, and better to discover what is belong to the controlling electronic and analog section first.
 
EdgeSRB
 
I do not have the images you need, I only worked on 2 new pods, and I had an old amplifier board here a while back.

 

[scratje]

Finally ready!
 
Trying resolving my loud humm ik blew up two TDAamps at the moment i turned the sub on.
The only thing i can figure out is the new thermal paste i put on the heat sinks, being conductive because i put too much on them and the TDAamp legs  got "wet" with it.
After soldering the new ones and now using heat conducting tape instead of thermal paste, i went looking for the cause of the humm.
It apeared that one soldering was bad and had no contact with the board.
Now the humm is gone and everthing is working fine.
The only thing i hope will disappear is a little distortion at high frequencies with female voices on high end recordings.
Before looking into that i will wait a week for the burn in of the new filter capacitors and hear if it will go away.
In what way is the length of the wires to the capacitors of influence to sound and distortion?
 
In the meanwhile i bought another Z5500 for a low price and this one has the mainboard as described here and since i have a lot of spare capacitors i will mod this one also.
I only have to order new opa1612aid and the two main Elna for Denon capacitors.
 
Very happy for now with my high end surround system

 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 

 

[DaddioJ]

  Finally ready!
 
Trying resolving my loud humm ik blew up two TDAamps at the moment i turned the sub on.
The only thing i can figure out is the new thermal paste i put on the heat sinks, being conductive because i put too much on them and the TDAamp legs  got "wet" with it.
After soldering the new ones and now using heat conducting tape instead of thermal paste, i went looking for the cause of the humm.
It apeared that one soldering was bad and had no contact with the board.
Now the humm is gone and everthing is working fine.
The only thing i hope will disapear is a little distortion at high frequencies with female voices on high end recordings.
Before looking into that i will wait a week for the burn in of the new filter capacitors and hear if it will go away.
In what way is the length of the wires to the capacitors of influence to sound and distortion?
 
In the meanwhile i bought another Z5500 for a low price and this one has the mainboard as described here and since i have a lot of spare capacitors i will mod this one also.
I only have to order new opa1612aid and the two main Elna for Denon capacitors.
 
Very happy for now with my high end surround system

 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 

 
i like it 

. i have to find another Z5500 set at a good price

 

[gelo]

Hi friends
I´m from spain sorry about my english
I have a z5500 with the problem of the voltage regulators,  i will solve it .....whith L7818CV and L7918CV in TO-220 format (7918 is the problem R22 burned)
I want to make a basic mod to the system  ,  i only use it with the pod , using the optical input , my question  .....is necesary to mod de pod  for this input? only the mod of sub maybe change or upgrade the quality of sound? caps and opas.
 
Very good works!!
 
Thanks !!