Alien DAC v1.1 Construction Thread
Dec 2, 2006 at 2:13 AM Post #467 of 1,562
this usb dac sounds great.

thanks for making this happen.

board.jpg

board2.jpg

board3.jpg

board5.jpg

board4.jpg
 
Dec 3, 2006 at 3:30 AM Post #468 of 1,562
Yay! Got my three boards today in the mail. Now it's time to kill myself soldering....
frown.gif


But anyway, as for parts selection, has anyone used Doobooloo's BOM, spread between Digikey and Mouser, successfully? I plan to basically use it for all parts except C13 (likely going to use 47uf 10v United Chemi-Con PSA capacitors) and CL/CR (I'm still undecided as to which cap I'm going to pick for CL/CLR; reading Whitewind's impressions, I'm leaning towards the 4uF ERO MKC coupling caps he mentioned, but I'm not sure what they are, exactly... can anyone provide me with a part number for either Mouser or Digikey?). I'd like to get BlackGates for CL/CR, but I'm trying to keep the cost of this thing fairly low, and I don't want to deal with any more shipping/handling costs than I already will be.
 
Dec 4, 2006 at 6:15 AM Post #469 of 1,562
Hello , everyone , i have just joined this forum and really have found This Alien DAC Project Interesting .what i am trying to make with this is USB Wireless headphones or speakers. I have made and tested the Wireless Audio Transmitter . i built it Using BH1417 , and it works like a charm . i only need this USB Sound card to make it a USB Wireless speaker. i have ordered all the IC's from texas instruments . i just have to order some components from farnell and others i will find in my local market. THE Only Problem is the PCB. Is anyone kind enough to trace the PCB or can you tell me if the Schematic is correct by looking at the PCB . and Then i will Design My PCB Myself on a single layered board that anyone can make.
 
Dec 5, 2006 at 2:01 PM Post #470 of 1,562
Quote:

Originally Posted by Aflac /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Yay! Got my three boards today in the mail. Now it's time to kill myself soldering....
frown.gif


But anyway, as for parts selection, has anyone used Doobooloo's BOM, spread between Digikey and Mouser, successfully? I plan to basically use it for all parts except C13 (likely going to use 47uf 10v United Chemi-Con PSA capacitors) and CL/CR (I'm still undecided as to which cap I'm going to pick for CL/CLR; reading Whitewind's impressions, I'm leaning towards the 4uF ERO MKC coupling caps he mentioned, but I'm not sure what they are, exactly... can anyone provide me with a part number for either Mouser or Digikey?). I'd like to get BlackGates for CL/CR, but I'm trying to keep the cost of this thing fairly low, and I don't want to deal with any more shipping/handling costs than I already will be.



I'm also looking around for a good BOM to use, got my boards today and want to solder over christmas break or something. Gotta get me a good magnifier, smore solder, and some finer solder tips.
 
Dec 6, 2006 at 12:42 AM Post #471 of 1,562
I just got my package of goodies from Mouser...$38 for parts..good deal...BUT..

UPS ground shipping..which cost $10 USD ended up costing an additional $48 for customs brokerage (and of that amount $4.00 was duty)

Now I've ordered from Digi-Key before and never paid customs brokerage fees...


Is there a way you guys get your stuff shipped where you don't incur brokerage fees???
 
Dec 6, 2006 at 1:39 AM Post #472 of 1,562
Quote:

Originally Posted by gmckay /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I just got my package of goodies from Mouser...$38 for parts..good deal...BUT..

UPS ground shipping..which cost $10 USD ended up costing an additional $48 for customs brokerage (and of that amount $4.00 was duty)

Now I've ordered from Digi-Key before and never paid customs brokerage fees...


Is there a way you guys get your stuff shipped where you don't incur brokerage fees???



Ship UPS or FedEx express, it costs about the same at around $30-$40 for the shipping but you know there will be no brokerage fees, and it arrives really quickly (ie. 2 days or less)
 
Dec 6, 2006 at 3:59 AM Post #474 of 1,562
Quote:

Originally Posted by mb3k /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Ship UPS or FedEx express, it costs about the same at around $30-$40 for the shipping but you know there will be no brokerage fees, and it arrives really quickly (ie. 2 days or less)


.... Or, DON'T order from Mouser if you're in Canada!
Between next-day shipping from Digi-Key AND Newark you're still only looking at $18 Canadian for the both of them. I haven't found many parts I completely NEEDED from Mouser that I couldn't source elsewhere.
 
Dec 6, 2006 at 4:43 AM Post #475 of 1,562
Quote:

Originally Posted by Aflac /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Yay! Got my three boards today in the mail. Now it's time to kill myself soldering....
frown.gif


But anyway, as for parts selection, has anyone used Doobooloo's BOM, spread between Digikey and Mouser, successfully? I plan to basically use it for all parts except C13 (likely going to use 47uf 10v United Chemi-Con PSA capacitors) and CL/CR (I'm still undecided as to which cap I'm going to pick for CL/CLR; reading Whitewind's impressions, I'm leaning towards the 4uF ERO MKC coupling caps he mentioned, but I'm not sure what they are, exactly... can anyone provide me with a part number for either Mouser or Digikey?). I'd like to get BlackGates for CL/CR, but I'm trying to keep the cost of this thing fairly low, and I don't want to deal with any more shipping/handling costs than I already will be.



why not just order all the parts from simply one vendor?
 
Dec 6, 2006 at 5:59 AM Post #476 of 1,562
Heres my Digikey BOM.

I suggest having a look through it as that is just what I chose to build mine with, well mostly. The need column is just a guide, like it says you need both cases. My thinking is if a part no.s repeated then you'd only need 1 of them.

Stock column was way out of date so not much in there, date is just for approx. restock, you can change the currency conversion if you so wish by altering the no. found below $AU or $NZ and changing the currency type and date to match.

edit: Just found something that needs altering with it... :\

Will be back shortly.

I also didn't include any sort of audio sockets as I preferred ones sourced locally to what digikey had.

Also I give no assurances that anything on that BOM is suitable. That is merely a disclaimer so if some unsuitable part explodes and takes out your arm, dont' come to me with a law suit.
biggrin.gif


R31 and R32 are for 4.74V, which is suitable for a USB voltage of 5.04V or more. That may not be suitable for all computers, especially those under a strenous load were a voltage drop may put it below that. May be a better idea to tweak those to end up with a lower minimum input voltage.
 
Dec 6, 2006 at 5:00 PM Post #477 of 1,562
I just went through and created this digi-key order, parts for 4 DACs.
BOM image
I'm a bit confused by the power options, I'd like to have options to wall power and USB power, how should I go about doing that, with an adjustable voltage regulator? Are the resistors I selected good for what I want?

I'm gunna get LEDs and Audio jacks locally, and for a case I'll just use Altoids tins

thanks to everybody who posted BOMs, helped me find the digi-key part numbers I wanted.
 
Dec 7, 2006 at 8:21 PM Post #478 of 1,562
Quote:

Originally Posted by skudmunky /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I'm a bit confused by the power options, I'd like to have options to wall power and USB power, how should I go about doing that, with an adjustable voltage regulator?


Nothing special. If you would like to underpower PCM2702 when used with USB, then the DAC should be underpowered in both configurations. So choose your resistors as if it is for USB only.

Also I suggest you use an on-off-on switch to switch between USB and wall power.

Quote:

Originally Posted by skudmunky /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Are the resistors I selected good for what I want?


They look OK to me. Use the formula on the support web site to calculate the output voltage. If you happy with the result, then go for it.
 
Dec 8, 2006 at 2:58 PM Post #479 of 1,562
Quote:

Originally Posted by Alf /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Nothing special. If you would like to underpower PCM2702 when used with USB, then the DAC should be underpowered in both configurations. So choose your resistors as if it is for USB only.

Also I suggest you use an on-off-on switch to switch between USB and wall power.



They look OK to me. Use the formula on the support web site to calculate the output voltage. If you happy with the result, then go for it.



Alright, thanks. Just gotta source out the Blackgate caps and pick up the stuff I need locally.

Looks like it's gunna come out to about 35 per DAC for me (I'm buying parts for 4 DACs), pretty sweet.
 
Dec 8, 2006 at 6:52 PM Post #480 of 1,562
Had a quick look over it myself skudmunky.

Be careful about the size of that 1000uF FM cap, I chose the 680uF FC over it due to space constraints. Would have had to get a little creative to get it in the Hammond.

I had a quick look and measure and it looks to me like it should fit in an Altoids tin, but say if you mount the board on double sided tape and take into account the board thickness it may get a little tight. Probably not an issue just thought I'd mention it so you can make sure yourself if you haven't already done so.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top