Aegis DIY Tube Headphone Amplifier
Feb 1, 2024 at 4:14 PM Post #1,786 of 2,465
Ah…ok. This is what mine looks like. You can see a small gap compared to other tubes I have in right now that sit flush. Sounds like I don’t need to worry about it.
Yeah… only looks 1-2mm short actually. I’d be surprised if that makes any difference. I’ve certainly not had any problems with my KT88 👍🏻
 
Feb 1, 2024 at 10:26 PM Post #1,787 of 2,465
The EL37, EL34, and KT77 do have the same connections. If they didn't, they would need an adapter. The only difference is the EL34 has a dedicated pin for grid 3, which is probably handled by being tied to the cathode on the aegis pcb (haven't looked for sure). Other tubes internally already have their G3 tied to the cathode inside the tube. The EL11 and EL12 can use the same adapter, the EL3N needs it's own adapter, and the EL33 doesn't need an adapter.
Thanks for the info. I was looking at radiomuseum and saw el37 listed as different connection to el34, the small pin out picture is also different where EL37 has (m) instead of g3 like the EL34.

So many pentodes, so little time! Everytime I see an old pentode pop up, my mind goes immediately to "Can I adapt this" and "Should I get a pair in case price shot up like the el12 spez/el37?" lol.
 
Feb 2, 2024 at 8:05 AM Post #1,788 of 2,465
So many pentodes, so little time! Everytime I see an old pentode pop up, my mind goes immediately to "Can I adapt this" and "Should I get a pair in case price shot up like the el12 spez/el37?" lol.

0b2370f9-0fa4-4441-93f2-c356ef7f3779_text.gif
 
Feb 3, 2024 at 3:44 PM Post #1,789 of 2,465
it's also possible the coupling is occurring inside the mains transformer itself. If that's the case, another thing you could try: whichever heater winding is contributing to the noise, use that one for the 6SL7s and use the one currently on the 6SL7s for the output stage.

I tried this trick with my amplifier and it worked! I swapped right channel heater wires (at the transformer) with 6SL7 heater wires.
 
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Feb 3, 2024 at 6:32 PM Post #1,790 of 2,465
I tried this trick with my amplifier and it worked! I swapped right channel heater wires (at the transformer) with 6SL7 heater wires.

Glad to hear it. At some point I may make a change to the PCB and reference the output to heaters to ground, which I think would prevent this from happening again. Fortunately it only seems to show up rarely and is easily fixed.
 
Feb 5, 2024 at 6:22 AM Post #1,791 of 2,465
I’ve thought about doing this for ages now but I finally went ahead. New second source for the Aegis, Rega Planar P8. Sounds terrific with the Aegis!

IMG_5812.jpeg
 
Feb 5, 2024 at 7:47 PM Post #1,794 of 2,465
Feb 6, 2024 at 8:38 AM Post #1,797 of 2,465
EL38 came in today.

DSC_0572.png

One pair is twin halo getter and the other is (I guess?) trough getter?
DSC_0574.png

Time to put them to the test vs EL156. One pair's pin looks to be quite dirty so they have to go to storage till holiday is over and I can get my hands on some deoxit. One question though, should I clean the plate cap too?

I believe both of my pairs are halo getter, so I'll be curious to hear what you think of the trough getter.
 
Feb 7, 2024 at 6:20 AM Post #1,800 of 2,465
Hello,

This may be a stupid question, so apologies in advance.

It was intention to solder the PCB pads to the tube socket pins tonight. I noticed my jumper wire between the 6SL7 heater pads connects the HT5 pad to the HT8_1 pad, and the HT6 pad to the HT7_1 pad.

Looking at the manual, I see the jumper connects HT5 to HT7_1 and HT6 to HT8_1. Does it make any difference? Just wanted to be sure before soldering the PCB, in case I need to rewire it.

Thanks a lot for the help.

 

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