Curious what cable did you use? I does not look like Canare, is it Mogami?
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A Pic-By-Pic Grado SR80 Recable Thread...
- Thread starter cyberspyder
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cyberspyder
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Yeah, Mogami mini-quad...prefer it to Canare for some reason...the different colours for one.
Good observation.
Netdewt
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I'm planning to do this to my SR-125s. The cable is beat up from a few years of use and there is something loose inside the cups. I'm also going to make my own interconnects at the same time. Planning to use Canare Star Quad L-4E6S from Markertek for $0.51/ft.
For the split I'd like to terminate it into a female plug so that the main cable will be disconnect-able. It might add some weight but it will add a "swivel", which I find to me a major annoyance of Grados. What type of two conductor cable should I use for that?
Also, what type of glue do you use to reassemble the cups?
For the split I'd like to terminate it into a female plug so that the main cable will be disconnect-able. It might add some weight but it will add a "swivel", which I find to me a major annoyance of Grados. What type of two conductor cable should I use for that?
Also, what type of glue do you use to reassemble the cups?
cyberspyder
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Hot glue, just run of the mill stuff for the high-temp glue guns. I mean, you could use any really, silicone, gorilla glue, epoxy etc... BUT if you need to fix something in the future, good luck getting them apart.
Brendan
Brendan
Netdewt
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Thanks.
Oh and here's the way I want to do my split, like user "anthonyhong":
Oh and here's the way I want to do my split, like user "anthonyhong":
cyberspyder
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I forgot to post a BOM...here it is:
-Mogami Mini-quad (W2893)
-3/16" Nylon Multifilament
-Switchcraft HD35ABAU 3.5mm Plug
-1/2" 3:1 Dual-wall Adhesive Heatshrink
-Black Paracord Sheathing (just take the inner paracord strands out)
-Misc. Heatshrink (I believe I used 3/32" for the portion after the y-split, common 2:1 stuff)
-Hot Glue
-Zip Ties (to create the strain relief within the cups)
Brendan
-Mogami Mini-quad (W2893)
-3/16" Nylon Multifilament
-Switchcraft HD35ABAU 3.5mm Plug
-1/2" 3:1 Dual-wall Adhesive Heatshrink
-Black Paracord Sheathing (just take the inner paracord strands out)
-Misc. Heatshrink (I believe I used 3/32" for the portion after the y-split, common 2:1 stuff)
-Hot Glue
-Zip Ties (to create the strain relief within the cups)
Brendan
edjosh23
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Thanks for the step by step!
Just recabled my SR-80i. Sounds great
Thanks,
Josh
Just recabled my SR-80i. Sounds great
Thanks,
Josh
Kaboomer
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Hey Brendan ,
Your mod inspired me to do one on my sr80i,
I was wondering about your preference for mogami over canare.
Is there a difference in Sound Quality or do you think its just easier to work with? (referring to the mogami ones that is)
I'm about to order some canare ones right now. Is there really a difference between Japan over American?
Your mod inspired me to do one on my sr80i,
I was wondering about your preference for mogami over canare.
Is there a difference in Sound Quality or do you think its just easier to work with? (referring to the mogami ones that is)
I'm about to order some canare ones right now. Is there really a difference between Japan over American?
Joshatdot
Headphoneus Supremus
Very nice and clean build .. I really want to re-cable my SR-80s .. the factory sheathing has some annoying twists, and its not very soft/flexible.
lasraik
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Did you just pull out the two wires you were using and split them at the Y from the 4 cables and shrink tube them?
Very impressive work btw!
Very impressive work btw!
cyberspyder
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Yes, one pair for each channel/side.
Quote:
Quote:
Did you just pull out the two wires you were using and split them at the Y from the 4 cables and shrink tube them?
Very impressive work btw!
JennaFF
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How much would this cost? And what is the risk of messing up my headphones? I'm not very confident in my ability to put it back together perfectly
FallenAngel
Headphoneus Supremus
Cost : Around $20
Risk : Depends on your abilities.
Risk : Depends on your abilities.
JennaFF
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How likely am I to pull off the solder pad on the speaker? Ive probably been soldering for years, but..you know, these are my HEADPHONES. Even a 1% chance is scary...
Bilavideo
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If you solder carefully, you shouldn't have any problem. Remember to tint up your iron. Remember to add solder rather than trying to borrow it from what's there. Heat and tint up the wires you want to solder, then make sure you are adding solder to what's there on the pad. Don't solder with the very tip, but a little to the side. For best results, remember that you are trying to (1) feed solder, (2) heat the wire, instead of the pad, and (3) keep the wire in place with your soldering hand so that you're not soldering as a brace. If you do this right, you'll be in and out fairly quickly and cleanly.
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