3D printed closed headphones with HD800 driver
Nov 5, 2018 at 1:01 AM Post #151 of 166
My current design uses the modded stax earpads , which has smaller opening than hd800 pads, and i also tried the shure alcantara pads. To my suprise the smaller alcantara doesnt sound that bad. The soundstage get a tiny bit smaller but you get a bit more bassand lower mids. This is the only mod that increase bass that doesnt mess up the mid and soundstage. As you said, any other damping in front of the driver would mess up the soundstage, and the smaller earpads is the least.
 
Nov 9, 2018 at 3:38 PM Post #152 of 166
Wow, nice thread, just found it.
I'm going to do something similar with the hd700 drivers which don't sound so nice in their original housing.
But when they put it in the hd660, I thought they can't be too bad.
Arriving upcomming week, I'm interested how they will perform in my prototype :wink:
I also would like to see some measures of your headphone :D
 
Last edited:
Nov 9, 2018 at 3:49 PM Post #153 of 166
Nov 22, 2018 at 11:33 AM Post #155 of 166
9939157_l.jpg

9939156_l.jpg

9939155_l.jpg

9939154_l.jpg

To scratch my itch i got a new 3d printer and this is the progress of new version:
Double baffle design to increase the stiffness, even though printed in pla they are really rigid as 2 baffle plated attached by screw and brass knurled nut. Driver also attached to baffle this way. Its heavier than i expected but much stronger than previous designs ( thin plastic plus dynamat). Im printing the cup right now. This design is suppose to be smaller and semi closed.
 
Dec 17, 2018 at 10:18 AM Post #156 of 166
I've learn something new, the design game of the frame and enclosure is all about vibration (not just removing it, but to use them in a positive way, like using wood) and balancing the pressure between the front and rear of driver.
To use double baffle,the stiffness increased and there is less vibration I can hear.
To balance the pressure between front and rear, some manufacturer use vents on the baffle, however I found that backwave might affect the sound negatively, and as a result sound to bright.
I prefer the solution used in fostex or sony r10, basicly they use an earpads that offer good seal (pleather/leather) then adjusting the sound by vents on driver side using foam. It is in a way like using very thin velour earpads, then use leather earpads on top ( in a very simple explanation)
My design use huge gap between the double baffle and cover them in micropore tape. By making the back side open or semi close, you change the pressure back side, then you have to adjust the pressure on the front side as well, thats why normally just making your originally closed headphones open (and vice versa)doesn't always sound nice.
I made new prototype in seashell oval shape.
9939269_l.jpg

9939268_l.jpg
9939267_l.jpg

I have added some damping on the 3d printed cup, and the gap between 2 baffle is 6mm, covered in micropore. Compare to my previous open prototype, on some tuning it offer rumbling bass but the mid is thick, and if I add more damping material, the treble really stand out and come alive without sounding harsh. But still thick mid annoys me. And the bass is a bit loose, and sound not too tight and fast, so I got my old wood cup out and back to the design board.
I present to you all the ultimate steampunk, with Iris door mechanism. I can transform between open to partially closed. The iris leafs were hand cut from brass, so the tolerance is very large, so it doesnt look very professional, but I dig it. Due to my bad skill, the iris can close maximum like in photo. The gap between 2 baffle is now 9mm and covered in micropore again. The wood cup is rosewood epoxy coated.
9939266_l.jpg
9939265_l.jpg
9939263_l.jpg
9939261_l.jpg

I dont put any foam or damping in the cup, because it will increase back pressure and IMO counter the point of making large ear cup. Without foam damping, the mid often sound too thick, thats why many people put foam damping. But you can solve it by reducing the pressure on the earside, making it further away from ear and let some air out by using porous tape (Micropore)
Now the vibration of the plastic cup is gone, sound very tight and clean. I like the most closed setting of the iris. Space and imaging is still there compare to the open (black ) version, but mid sound even tighter, treble surprise me the most. I can hear ever metallic "cling" and guitair metal strings sounds sooo sweet now. I did not expect that.
THe bass is quite expected, sound more punch and slam, and punchy, not even one bit punchy. It sound soo powerful and lots of energy now, but I have to get used to it for a while because the black open version sounded soft and laid back.
The drawback is only the look, now it is screwing huge!!! This is definitely something you enjoy holding in your hand and put on and enjoy music, not caring how you look like :))
xZZ5vvK63r6aPJRb8
 
Last edited:
Dec 17, 2018 at 11:35 AM Post #157 of 166
I've learn something new, the design game of the frame and enclosure is all about vibration (not just removing it, but to use them in a positive way, like using wood) and balancing the pressure between the front and rear of driver.
To use double baffle,the stiffness increased and there is less vibration I can hear.
To balance the pressure between front and rear, some manufacturer use vents on the baffle, however I found that backwave might affect the sound negatively, and as a result sound to bright.
I prefer the solution used in fostex or sony r10, basicly they use an earpads that offer good seal (pleather/leather) then adjusting the sound by vents on driver side using foam. It is in a way like using very thin velour earpads, then use leather earpads on top ( in a very simple explanation)
My design use huge gap between the double baffle and cover them in micropore tape. By making the back side open or semi close, you change the pressure back side, then you have to adjust the pressure on the front side as well, thats why normally just making your originally closed headphones open (and vice versa)doesn't always sound nice.
I made new prototype in seashell oval shape.
9939269_l.jpg

9939268_l.jpg
9939267_l.jpg

I have added some damping on the 3d printed cup, and the gap between 2 baffle is 6mm, covered in micropore. Compare to my previous open prototype, on some tuning it offer rumbling bass but the mid is thick, and if I add more damping material, the treble really stand out and come alive without sounding harsh. But still thick mid annoys me. And the bass is a bit loose, and sound not too tight and fast, so I got my old wood cup out and back to the design board.
I present to you all the ultimate steampunk, with Iris door mechanism. I can transform between open to partially closed. The iris leafs were hand cut from brass, so the tolerance is very large, so it doesnt look very professional, but I dig it. Due to my bad skill, the iris can close maximum like in photo. The gap between 2 baffle is now 9mm and covered in micropore again. The wood cup is rosewood epoxy coated.
9939266_l.jpg
9939265_l.jpg
9939263_l.jpg
9939261_l.jpg

I dont put any foam or damping in the cup, because it will increase back pressure and IMO counter the point of making large ear cup. Without foam damping, the mid often sound too thick, thats why many people put foam damping. But you can solve it by reducing the pressure on the earside, making it further away from ear and let some air out by using porous tape (Micropore)
Now the vibration of the plastic cup is gone, sound very tight and clean. I like the most closed setting of the iris. Space and imaging is still there compare to the open (black ) version, but mid sound even tighter, treble surprise me the most. I can hear ever metallic "cling" and guitair metal strings sounds sooo sweet now. I did not expect that.
THe bass is quite expected, sound more punch and slam, and punchy, not even one bit punchy. It sound soo powerful and lots of energy now, but I have to get used to it for a while because the black open version sounded soft and laid back.
The drawback is only the look, now it is screwing huge!!! This is definitely something you enjoy holding in your hand and put on and enjoy music, not caring how you look like :))
xZZ5vvK63r6aPJRb8
Why don't you make metal or aluminum parts from CNC machine's? They are much more capable when it comes to sound.
 
Dec 17, 2018 at 12:02 PM Post #158 of 166
My forst diy headphones (t50rp) had the cup made from aluminium. I didnt like the sound and they are not light enough. Im thinking next build would be carbom fiber bottom plate and top plate connected to driver from wood. Anyway the double baffle are connected by 8 screw and contact surface is very small ( brass knurled nut). It is similar to those turntable decks where the tables join each other by pointy legs ( or like loudspeaker legs) so vibration transfer should be minimal. And also im playing with what i have so for now thats all I can do.
 
Dec 17, 2018 at 12:15 PM Post #159 of 166
My forst diy headphones (t50rp) had the cup made from aluminium. I didnt like the sound and they are not light enough. Im thinking next build would be carbom fiber bottom plate and top plate connected to driver from wood. Anyway the double baffle are connected by 8 screw and contact surface is very small ( brass knurled nut). It is similar to those turntable decks where the tables join each other by pointy legs ( or like loudspeaker legs) so vibration transfer should be minimal. And also im playing with what i have so for now thats all I can do.
Well aluminum cups need certain thickness's to hit that sweet spot and they also need a ton of damping because aluminum do not absorb any of the backwave energy from the driver.

Carbon fibre is also an excellent choice but you will have to make them T H I C C, but check which carbon fibre you want to use. Remember no two materials are the same, every material need different dampings.
 
Dec 17, 2018 at 1:04 PM Post #160 of 166
Ok I agree damping is good to reduce vibration
But i prefer designs like the sony r10, where they apply vibration damping by attaching the wood cup ( which seems to me glued to wooden baffle) to the frame ( metal plate connected to earpads) by screws and rubber rings (insulators)
9939271_l.png

In case of hd800, there is a rubber ring( a fellow headfi member send me a photo but I never own myself).
On r10, there is no other damping required. So with proper mechanical damping and vibration isolation, you dont need tons of dynamat. On my wooden prototype, to take possible wood expansion due to weather into account and to damp vibration, I added 2mm foam strip on the contact area to the baffle ( they have 1mm gap). Things sounds great now.
What Im trying to say is vibration damping is a real issue, but headphones manufacturer tend not to use dynamat because there are other ways.
Now im trying to use stiff lightweight material and damp vibration at contact point. It looks more minimal and effective to me.
 
Dec 17, 2018 at 8:13 PM Post #161 of 166
Ok I agree damping is good to reduce vibration
But i prefer designs like the sony r10, where they apply vibration damping by attaching the wood cup ( which seems to me glued to wooden baffle) to the frame ( metal plate connected to earpads) by screws and rubber rings (insulators)
9939271_l.png

In case of hd800, there is a rubber ring( a fellow headfi member send me a photo but I never own myself).
On r10, there is no other damping required. So with proper mechanical damping and vibration isolation, you dont need tons of dynamat. On my wooden prototype, to take possible wood expansion due to weather into account and to damp vibration, I added 2mm foam strip on the contact area to the baffle ( they have 1mm gap). Things sounds great now.
What Im trying to say is vibration damping is a real issue, but headphones manufacturer tend not to use dynamat because there are other ways.
Now im trying to use stiff lightweight material and damp vibration at contact point. It looks more minimal and effective to me.
Well I can't really argue with that! You may want to contact Lawton because he uses some special stuff to damp the Denon Dx000 line, he said its some super duper space station crap up in there (referring to the damping).
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top