[ericj]

I have a Xytronic 238 variable-temp iron that cost about $11 and works great, for those times when the Weller WTCPN on my desk can't come to the work.

But of course that's what i keep recommending to people, and nobody ever takes my advice: Troll ebay for a used WTCP series soldering station. You should be able to get one around $35. Then buy a small assortment of PT series tips.

These aren't variable temperature irons: they're fixed temperature irons. The temperature is determined by the curie point of the magnetic slug at the base of the tip. The reaction time of the leaf switch in the iron is much faster than the reaction time of the thermocouple-based variable stations. It's a 75W iron, iirc. Comes to temperature quickly and pretty much stays there.

I have a pair of 700f conical tips, a 600f tapered, and an 800f wedge. On rare occasions i have to turn off the power supply and use a pair of pliers to change out a hot tip, but the 700f conical does 98% of my soldering just fine.

If you're using lead-free or silver-bearing or other exotic persnickety solder, there's a 3rd party company producing 650f, 750f, and 850f tips for the TC series irons.

I like the WTCPN because the iron holder is integral to the base instead of a snap-on attachment like it is on the WTCPT.

 

[FraGGleR]

LOL, headspinning and I haven't even tried to solder anything yet.

For a complete beginner who is interested in cables and perhaps a gamma and a mini3, would a variable temp or fixed temp be easier to manage?

For the Hakko clone, is it the same quality as the real one that goes for about $40 more?

Ok, so the three choices I have somewhat arbitrarily come down to are the one for sale that I posted a little ways up for $30 shipped, the Hakko clone which is variable temp and available for $40 plus shipping at a couple places, or to hunt for a used Weller WTCPN for hopefully $35.

A hearty thanks to everyone chiming in. If I show any aptitude for this stuff, I have some BIG plans for where I might take it (think useable art). Credit will certainly be given for the help I have and hope to receive.

 

[pila405]

It's much alike the TCP 24V, right? It uses the same magnetic thingy.

Will 3.2 + 1.6 + 0.8mm tips will be enough for me [700]? [Beta 22 amp]

 

[gore.rubicon]

IMO it all depends on how much you wanna get into the hobby, and how much you see yourself using it in the future. I jumped at the Hakko, going to into engineering i'd think it'd be useful (hehe self justification of purchase). If your only doing odd joints here and there, random patches id go for the parts express. If you plan on going hardcore, and building more stuff then a hakko is really a good choice, and buying a "brand" name prolly means more choice in tips. Desoldering, smd, etc etc

 

[a1m80t]

Check fry's electronics for specials. The hakko 936 goes for sell for about $50 randomly.

 

[scompton]

I wish we had something like Fry's in the DC area

 

[kb1gra]

Besides the eternal awesomeness of the fry's selection, the store themes are hilarious. I personally like the store dedicated to the California Gold Rush, but Alice in Wonderland is pretty cool too.

 

[Nick 214]

Buy it. I've had mine for a few weeks now, and love it! I use Kester 44 solder, and it works great. The stand is kinda flimsy, but for $15, I'm in love.

NK

 

[FraGGleR]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nick 214 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Buy it. I've had mine for a few weeks now, and love it! I use Kester 44 solder, and it works great. The stand is kinda flimsy, but for $15, I'm in love. NK

Since you said $15, I assume you are referencing the Partsexpress one I originally posted about? So many have been suggested. I am caught between my cheapness and my love of quality stuff.

I think I might wuss out and go straight up the middle and get the clone of the Hakko for $40, with another $10 of purchases (easy to do since I am starting off), I can get a free gift! Probably will get a DMM, whatever that is...

 

[kb1gra]

A DMM is a digital multimeter...a worthy tool to have (I got one for my 15th birthday

)

 

[Paul J.]

I've used a couple of cheap irons, and they have a few drawbacks. The tips can be poor and hard to find, the bodies heat up in a short time, the elements burn out, and most importantly, some balance badly. For those of us with below average fine motor skills, balance contributes greatly to ease of use.

I have been very happy with the Weller SP irons. You can get the SP23 at Home Depot for $16 (25-30% cheaper than most everywhere else). If you need to solder something big (large buss or star grounds, speaker terminals, etc) they sell the SP40 for $18. They are in every way better than the cheapos I've used. Tips are high quality and available everywhere, they stay cool for hours, feel great, and they'll last for a very long time.

I haven't tried that specific PE iron, but I have used their inexpensive fixed wattage irons. Personally, I wouldn't mess with it. I'd say the Weller will probably do everything you want and more. If you want a station, get the Hakko. I've certainly spent enough on bad irons to have paid for it. If I did more smt, I'd buy it in an instant. I'm a cheap guy, but good tools (Weller or Hakko) are usually worth it, especially when they cost no more than junky ones.

Paul

 

[FraGGleR]

I ended up getting the Hakko Clone from Web-tronics.com for $50 shipped (plus a pretty nice free multimeter). The build quality seems pretty nice, and so far I am very happy with my choice. I think it was a good compromise between the more expensive stations and the cheapies. I lack the mental makeup to be come a sophisticated builder so I doubt I will ever need better than this as long as it lasts.

Thanks for all the suggestions, everyone.

 

[TimmyMac]

Not gonna lie, my iron cost around 5 bucks.

 

[AudioCats]

looks like the same Tenma iron sold on MCMelectronics. similarly priced as well.

I have the Tenma, it works well (expect the warm up is pretty slow, 5~10 minutes). I really like the temp control function.

 

[rembrant]

It's a bad workman that blames his tools. Once you get the concept of cleanliness and technique, you can solder with anything that gets hot enough. I have made acceptable solder connections with a nail and a Bic lighter before.

To me, tip cleaner and flux is much more important than the soldering iron it self. You must be able to tin the tip of your iron. If the solder beads up, then the tip is not clean. You can't leave solder tinned on the tip of a cheap iron. Once you have made your respective connection you must clean the tip of solder unless you are about to make another connection immediately. Even then, after about 30 seconds, the cheap irons will burn the solder that is tinned on the tip and it wont work as well.

What you need more than any specific soldering iron is some copper scour pads from the grocery store. The technique is hard to explain because it is different for each type of connection and even for different people. Practice makes perfect. I believe once you get started you will forget what the worry was about in the first place. Everyone here has good advice. Don't be afraid to ask. I know I have and I wouldn't understand half the things I do if it weren't for this forum and specifically the people here.