i scrapped the 009 with the bhse combo, ended up settling on the t2 with 007 and omegas. i think there's more merit in chasing after the new carbon or circlotron these days after all the bs i went through putting the t2 together, but there's definitely something special about the sound compared...

these measurements drift with temperature, it's perfectly normal. 10-20v poses no danger to the headphones

I also prefer the omega with the t2 over the bhse but I might just be biased

its quite the reference, it's hard to stop listening sometimes

You have no idea what you're talking about

detailed doesn't have to mean bright, or vice versa

treble

any of the amplifiers can be built if you know how to solder and you use the proper tools for the important stuff. simplest one I can think of is the octave? maybe the original kgst design as well. someone built the t2 as their first amplifier but it's not recommended without assistance. if...

nice job, what peek screws are you using? 

lamda signature then 323S

It's a one-off builder, he has posted pictures of his work on other sites if you're interested. It's a Megatron amplifier, bit of overkill for the 009s   You would probably be fine with a KGST for your headphones, maybe get someone to build you the new version with the cascode CCS

not the best choice for the 009s and the 009s are lacking in bass, just need to compare with the 007 side by side but it's just a preference thing

either or is fine, thanks for any info

I've been using a 10dB RF attenuator at the BNC input with good results, the SPDIF signals still locks properly   Mini-Circuits Model cat-10-75   probably don't need it to work up to 500MHz

BHSE uses some in-production parts where they are appropriate, shouldn't be hard to divine from the pictures

Is there a decent source for getting replacement Z7 earpads now? Does anyone have an accurate measurement of the pad's outer diameter?

keep the 727 and add feedback

just make sure it's rated for the proper voltage, shouldn't matter too much. If you're mucking around in there you might as well swap out the entire bias supply while you're at it   the regulated stuff is pretty nice

if you can't tell a difference with r2r then just get the audiolab mdac, the features and output stage are robust. There is a large body of tweaking supported by the original designer in random forums elsewhere

I don't really care for the dac 4.1 because there's a lot of fluff around the design, but you can probably assess that if you look at the internals   soekris is interesting but the si570 phase noise leaves something to be desired. Let someone who is capable of measuring crystals put it into...

Not the appropriate post to quote but I'm curious if you ere able to cleanly remove the dust cover for mk1's before? I'm having some slight balance problems and I think it's because the cover is compromised. Did you just cut it out?

  I would recommend splitting your budget in half to go towards a USB- SPDIF and a vintage R2R DAC. Since you have some DIY skills you should be able to restore something with a NPT/PMD filter + PCM63

Please make me a pair I pay you long time

pretty sure his amps aren't a limiting factor to say the least

I think the way the dust cover interfaces with the driver housing changes from mk1 version to version and then some, but I've only had three samples to look at over the years