All I'm saying is don't cheap out on the electrolytics.

Anyone measured the temperature inside their amp enclosure? Electrolytic capacitors' rated lifespan are cut in half with each increase of 10 °C (some at 5 °C intervals). No wonder they put caps rated at 12000 hours in this.

Anyone knows where to get pins like these? Short, the shaft is thin enough to get through the holes: http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h226/madcap389/misc/020302a_both.jpg~original Another photo: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3322/3410025378_f8abdf015a.jpg?v=0 What are these pins called anyways?

Quote: Originally Posted by IEATTEFLON I think ad8620 is too pricy for studioish duties. They do sound very nice though. Actually, we only roll with DOAs in the studio. But this is only a headphone amp for the vocalist. Seaside: thanks for the nice read. The headphones are...

Cool, cool. I got a couple of 2134s. What about the AD8620 with a suitable adaptor? (I want to broaden my perspective here )

Thanks for the replies, its funny you mentioned the NJM4556...its the opamp I've had the most (infact, I've always had) troubles with in my history of DIY. In a simple c'moy circuit it got burning hot etc. I've tried it all, bandwidth limitation, input resistor, output resistor and so on...

I need to build a couple of headphone amps for the micbooth, and I'm looking for a very stable opamp (as in no oscillation, I'm tired of that). Any ideas?

I while back, I had an URL with a company that sold TubeOpamps. Don't recall if it was a kit or ready made. Anyone recall the address?

I say, put the project on ice for about 1 month, then dig in to it. I promise you that you will feel better as soon as you got the soldering iron in your hand, and starting to get into it. Its the pre-start that is painful sometimes, and can cause anxiety. Just chill for 4 weeks, then get...

jrc4556, 70mA. If the opamp amplifies a signal to 10volts, the 20ohm resistor will have roughly a 4v drop. 4*70mA is 280mW.

I've built a cmoy, and the chip was oscillating pretty bad, so I putted a 20ohm resistor at the output. This solved the problem. What I wonder is, if I connect a 32 ohm headphone to the cmoy, wouldn't the 20ohm output resistor be handling a lot of wattage?

If you got 600ohm headphones, does this means that each of the 2 speakers in the headphones are 600ohm each? Or are they 300ohm each?

This is what I've spent: ICs: €3 Capacitors & resistors: €15 Tubes: €4 Tube sockets: €2.7 RCA, Power, 1/4" Jacks: €1 Potentiometer: cheap ALPS, around €0.5 Knobs: Milled by me, materialcost maybe around €0.5 The rest of the misc. electronic items (fuse diods etc): €15 Powersupply: €15...

I know what you mean I detached the same opamp about 6 times by hand, and I ended breaking on of the opamplead.

298-1557 @ RS is the correct enclosure

Freakin fast shipment! 4 days and I live in Sweden! The PCBs are of very high quality, here is a picture I just took

does the voltagedividing resistors have to be very close to the opamp powerpins?

I have been at tangentsoft many times before, I was hoping to get a quick answer here. Is it possible to make a railsplitter for a wallwart with just 2 resistors?

But tle2426s are very expensive where I live...I hoped to get the amp going without one of those. Is it possible?

Ok, do I need the 220uF caps? Or can I just use 2 resistors?

actually it is a grado ra1 clone I got, but I figured that more peoples have experience with cmoys, they are basicaly the same. Though there is one difference. The ra1 doesnt use resistors as a voltagedivider. Therefore the battery + goes to + on opamp and to ground, and battery - goes to...

How do I do that? Where should the + and - of the wallwart go?

It will be used in a studio, with seperate outputs, only for the meters, so in other words, I just build a cmoy or something to feed the meters with?

Hello. I got 2 nice vu meters, the needletype. I want to make them work. How do I procced?

Shoeboxes!