Open it up and see if anything came loose or burned. The real question is whether or not you got a real Little Dot amplifier or a clone with different internals. Otherwise, a tube technician may be able to help. Or, try a real Little Dot direct from David. Have you been in contact with your...

TBH, it's stuff like this why I'll always recommend dealing with DavidZheZhe instead of a third party. He'll honor his own warranty, which includes return shipping within 3 months. Sure, you'd be without an amp for another month, but at least you won't have to get a shady travel adapter for...

I dunno about 10 seconds, but changing 4 tubes on my Little Dot MK IV took about 2 minutes.

Also consider, for $100 more, the Valhalla. Tube amps typically pair better with 600-ohm Beyers. That said, for the genres, I'm not sure it'll be beneficial for you to get that tube sound. I don't listen to any of that stuff myself.

Are you talking about a socket with switch or just a standalone switch? Does the socket integrate the fuse & switch together? Does it need the GND pin?

Well where/how do you listen right now? I personally have Koss PortaPros for listening to my iPod and a more serious system for home use.

The 250ohm version is equally inefficient but the impedance obviously changes things a bit. The MK II promises 200mW into 120 ohms and 300mW into 300 ohms so you should be fine with power delivery.

For 600-ohm DT880's, 60mW is insufficient. It really depends on the track--some albums (Led Zep II & III especially) I just like to turn it up. I borrowed a Head Box II for about 6 months total and AKG K702s for a month. Neither were really to my liking; the K702s were uncomfortable, the Head...

Ok; I got 'em out. I had to take off the brass shield thing and I think I heard something loose in the amp. I heard a slight buzzing from the left channel so I wanted to switch them. I know I swapped the driver tubes but I confused which power tube was left and which was right.

Random question: how does one remove the tubes? How are the tubes secured?

Try rolling them--that'd have the most effect when using it as a preamp.

Have you tried rolling the driver tubes?

It makes Aerosmith sound like angels and Guns N' Roses sound like God. You probably don't want to listen to anyone in the D's, though--new headphone cables make them sound like the Devil himself. Unless you want to cut out $100+ from your budget, I wouldn't bother with cables yet.

It's probably got more to do with the plastics and glues available in China, as well as how the chassis itself is made. My new amp definitely smells like ozone and there is a slight smell besides that. I don't really know what it is--the only difference between bespoke and mass-produced (like...

If you're considering watts per channel dollars, I think you have a point. Ultimately, I think the real contribution is miniaturizing high-quality amps. It's almost cheaper to make a full-sized amp because the tolerances are a bit wider. A lot of boutique manufacturers need to design and build...

Yes--just use the Toslink cable. Definitely unplug the 3.5mm-to-RCA cable. The radiator just looks clumsy there. Plus, one could run it as an intake. The heat would be there regardless (watercooling only adds a few watts of power consumption) so there's no harm in using slightly heated air to...

Audio-GD NFB 12.1? You'll have to save a little longer--$215 + s&h. But it's an amp that will last you through college and probably beyond. Source: A recent college graduate.

Temporarily, keep using what you've got. Looks like it's hooked up correctly. When you get that Toslink cable, plug it into the port right below the top USB ports. BTW: TX750? Not a bad choice. I've got one in my main. And watercooling? Baaaaad: you should put together an all-internal loop...

Well you need a Toslink out. There's usually a port on the motherboard (look for one that glows red) or sometimes it's available via mini-Toslink. If you have neither, some motherboards support a S/PDIF Out header for which you'll need an expansion bracket. Some motherboards don't even support...

And that's my Little Dot setup! Works great, sounds good. :beyersmile: I've got 19 hours of music burn-in on it and quite a bit more non-music use (gaming, youtube, etc).

Considering the price of the Pro-Ject ($100-150) at retail, I'd suggest going Chinese with a Zero DAC or Audio-GD NFB 12.1 or Little Dot MK II. All three options cost a little more.

Ya know, I think my Little Dot MK IV is a pretty damn good looking tube amp.

I used a Head Box Mk II for about 6 months and used 3 very different headphones with it. Sennheiser HD-555's, AKG K702's, and Beyer DT880's. I think this amp's real problem is poor bass control and that crappy potentiometer. I'd hear scratching when the volume was changed and, below 10 o'clock...

They were closed for the Chinese New Year. It seemed their shipping company was also out for that--it took a while until I got DHL's tracking information. Once it hit the system, it was on an express route to my front step. Yes, I ordered a MK IV. And no, you may NOT borrow it! :beyersmile:

The amp didn't disengage without a source--it's the source that's inducing the interference. That said, I'd be careful about running the amp on a 2-prong--try grounding it. Amen to the LED concern--I'd love diffusers on the front of 'em. You'd think manufacturers would provide 'em but no--few...