If I'm not wrong, the FIIO FW5 supports LHDC and not LDAC... unfortunately.. I would be interested if something similar to the FiiO UTWS5and with LDAC support would be available from any other manufacturer in the market.. Kr, tent:wq

actually I was using the "pimeta" style called "unity" boost.. just putting tha cap across r4 and a switch as well to set it off.. R4 is indeed 4.7k and the cap is 0.1uF from some suggested sentence.. maybe that's the reason about this "huge" bass boost?   tent:wq PS: by the way the...

IT WORKED! The C4- and C4+ writings I was referencing at were the ones on the top side not on the bottom side (that where as well reversed.. ;)) but at the end I also used the opportunity to get rid ot those tants and am using now instead some good and huge richmond 4.7uF MKTs unpolarized. But...

woa! that was a hint indeed! thanks! I will do the desoldering and resoldering of the cap in correct orientation and let you know asap!   tent:wq  

uhm.. also this seems to be a good point! But first of all let's say I interpreted the writings on the PCB like that: C4- writing means the - leg of the cap should go in the hole nearest to the - sign of the C4- writing, correct? I interpreted the opposite for the other tant: the - leg of the...

actually I just wrote I've used two black tantalum caps in C+ and C- (22uF, 16V, with black drop ceramic coating) but I'm starting to have some suspect those are some old tants that might somehow have issues? could I test that? or should I simply try to substitute them? But definitely I have not...

uhm... interesting.. I read 684ohm between both chip's V- and IG and somehow infinite resistance between V+ and IG (the ohmmeter counts up till out of scale..) I can try to make some better high res shots of the board if needed or the short could be in some cap or else (for instance I decided...

Hello,  I was out of town but finally back.. actually without good news: without ICs the issue was still there, so I ordered and replaced the TLE2426.. bit without success, everything still unbalanced.. :( what could it be?? :(     tent:wq  

no success so far.. I keep seeing this "unbalanced" voltages about everywhere on the board.. across C4+ the 2.55V and across C4- 5.65V, etc..  is there some specific measurement I could do to try to isolate the component or area where the issue could be? (for example if some cap or some ic, etc)...

No problem.. I also did not understand you were referring to those as per "green caps".. ;) anyway suggestions for next steps? should I dismantle and start over from the beginning? I would maybe try to: - susbtitute the split rail ic2 - swap the PSU caps.. they were some samsung caps I...

Quote:   I checked carefully and I really do not find any short or similar.. no contact evident between IC2 and C3.. what could I've done wrong? (The green caps are very good caps for the C6 positions, Im using 12pf and I suppose it is correct to put them across R6 positions.. the bass...

Quote:   I've attached some pics.. but let me know if I should upload them in some separate image hosting, zoom in some specific place or take it out from the cables.             But still wondering how it could be that just on V+ there is a fixed voltage value...

ok sorry for posting so much but I dared to make some further investigation step: I tried to measure the difference between V-/V+ and OG also with the amp powered with the wall wart (12V) and indeed some further odd result comes out: -11.75V vs 2.55V (curiously enough the 2.55V is same as with...

I also wanted to point out again that now that I'm using two green "normal" or low voltage leds the problem of the green led1 to change brightness is not there anymore.. So now for example I have full battery (giving 9.24V when amp is off, 9.04V when on and going down slowly, like 0.01V each...

ok, maybe I'm missing then what you mean by testing the battery terminals at the amp... do you mean measuring difference between V- and V+? Or just on the "batt" 4 pins plug? I really think there is no difference between measuring it at the battery terminals o at the pins.. anyway I've now...