Quote: Originally Posted by LingLing1337 Anyone experimented making ribbon wires? Yes, I have, see post #3177. These were made for speakers using 50-conductor flatcable. I used IDC connectors to conveniently terminate the ribbon. I'm not 100% happy with that result, but the...

Quote: Originally Posted by Jazper heh mine (JSR03/ths4601+d44h11+LM338) is currently pushing 500mA or so and I'd guess capable of at least 3A consistantly with the heatsink/transformer/rectifier solution I'm using. It's all to do with the heatsink you use and the LM317/338 you use...

Quote: Originally Posted by nikongod it should have VERY low inductance, and looks easy to build Indeed, low self-inductance is the key. In principle, they are best suited for driving lows, while you'd like to have something with low capacitance for highs. But I'm using them for...

They're speaker wires, but I thought I'd share anyway. Soldering the thick wires to the IDC connector was more difficult that I thought it would be, but it sure beat stripping 50 individual 28 gauge wires and then trying to get those into the bananas. I'll have to pot the IDC connectors up...

Hi all, My aging Philips cans are in dire need of replacement, and a pair of K601's doesn't sound too bad. I'll be driving them through a Dynalo. Is that a good combination?

Quote: Originally Posted by Beefy I actually found these really nice latching switches in stock at Farnell, which is where I will be getting most of my other gear: BULGIN | MP0045/3E0NN000. Pricey, but I think they will look pretty awesome on the front panel. Those do look really...

Quote: Originally Posted by nikongod you do know that "comon" glass is uv opaque? VERY little if any will get through a sheet of normal glass. you *need* either a quartz glass (expensive to make) bulb, or a specially made plastic/acrylic to transmit uv. there are uv flourescent...

Quote: Originally Posted by nikongod im not sure how much "light" you need... Quite a bit. I use my mom's old sun lamp. These things work great. Mine dissipates about 250W or thereabouts in the Mercury vapor bulb. The light output is impressive. Can't believe my mom actually used...

Getting the exposure time right will be tricky, since you're not dealing with a constant source. Otherwise, there should be plenty of UV in the spectrum. Also, the sun is an excellent "point source": the rays are very parallel. You won't have to worry too much about light getting under the mask...

Quote: Originally Posted by tangent That's something like 16 orders of magnitude higher than needed to count all of the atoms in the universe. [...] With 96 bit audio, you could record the universe at atomic scale. There is a lot more than 96 bits of information in the universe...

The layout you're suggesting copies errors and noise on the positive side directly into the negative side. On the other hand, for well-matched rails you only need to find two well-matched resistors R12 and R13. Very similar to the "official" psu for the dynalo. I second Glassman's opinion...

Quote: Originally Posted by Glassman still working on Blue Hawaii so no dynahi psu yet.. talking to someone here in diy section we came to a conclusion that default jung reg should work just fine.. the boards are available here.. you will need two of these boards and some bigger heatsing...

Quote: Originally Posted by Glassman actually, the AD825 can't stand the start-up of the regulator.. that's why I'd like to use OPA27, which is pretty low noise chip and can stand 44V.. you're right with the current sources.. and this thing asks for decent heatsinking.. Have you...

Quote: Originally Posted by Glassman you're completely right, i just need some opamp that can stand way more then 30V and make shure it performs just as well as the opamps usually used in jung super reg, I also need to know if the default pass transistor will stand the current needed...