[Dark Helmet]

If I connect the Zishan to my Mac, my Mac (running Audinirvana) only shows the Zishan DAC running at 16/48.

Amarra does the same thing for me and plays the 44.1k tracks fast at 48K.

 

[Rhatz]

Ok better cable and USB 3.0 port, I'll give this a try. Thanks!

did you already replace your usb cable with a short one? did it work? does the delay removed???

 

[Akmola Lola]

just bought Z1 for 27 minus 2 dollar discount for a total of USD 25.. hope i'll liked it.

 

[DBaldock9]

As recommended in the Walnut v2 thread, I had converted my ripped CDs of FLAC files (so far, I've only ripped a couple of hundred, out of several thousand), to single WAV (and MP3) files per album - which makes navigating easier on the screenless DAPs.
Originally, I had placed the 320K MP3s of 200+ albums, on a 64G microSD card, for my Walnut and Z1.

Last night, I took the 101 albums that I listen to most often, and placed the WAV files on the microSD card for my Z1, and it completely filled the card, with ~760KB of space left.

So, now I'm listening to WAV files on the Z1, with a LME49720HA opamp installed - switching back and forth between my Svara L & K's 500 earbuds, and both sound good - with the Svara L having more low Bass, and a bit of a recessed Midrange & Treble; and the K's 500 having more Midrange & Treble, and clear & detailed Bass - but not as much of it.

 

[fairx]

Does anybody here can compare SQ of Zishan Z1 with ZTE axon 7? Tqvm.

 

[Nokizaru]

Does anybody here can compare SQ of Zishan Z1 with ZTE axon 7? Tqvm.

I own Meizu Mx4 pro, very good sounding but somewhat old phone and it beats Z1 in every aspect (better soundstage, much more details, better bass). I'm using Neutron as music player so the sound signature is close to Zishan's (bright).
So I guess Axon 7 will beat Z1 too, no matter what opamp you use
edit: it's a bad thing to compare those two, the price range is just too big.
Z1 is amazing player for this money.

 

[fairx]

I own Meizu Mx4 pro, very good sounding but somewhat old phone and it beats Z1 in every aspect (better soundstage, much more details, better bass). I'm using Neutron as music player so the sound signature is close to Zishan's (bright).
So I guess Axon 7 will beat Z1 too, no matter what opamp you use
edit: it's a bad thing to compare those two, the price range is just too big.
Z1 is amazing player for this money.

thanks. I'm not exactly want to compare them but just last night i listened to my friend axon 7 amped with my o2 to Hp320M earbud and really like the sound. Very deep and resolving. Maybe I should invest other DAP or perhaps aim zishan DSD altogether

 

[DBaldock9]

thanks. I'm not exactly want to compare them but just last night i listened to my friend axon 7 amped with my o2 to Hp320M earbud and really like the sound. Very deep and resolving. Maybe I should invest other DAP or perhaps aim zishan DSD altogether

I can recommend either the Shanling M2s or the Cayin N3, as quality mid-range DAPs (~USD$200) that have good audio performance, and screens if you want an upgrade from the Z1. The Z1 does have the advantage of being able to easily change the opamp.

 

[Dark Helmet]

I own Meizu Mx4 pro, very good sounding but somewhat old phone and it beats Z1 in every aspect (better soundstage, much more details, better bass). I'm using Neutron as music player so the sound signature is close to Zishan's (bright).
So I guess Axon 7 will beat Z1 too, no matter what opamp you use
edit: it's a bad thing to compare those two, the price range is just too big.
Z1 is amazing player for this money.

What opamp are you using in your Z1?

 

[DBaldock9]

Tonight, I pulled out the "LME49720HA (TO-99 round metal case)", and installed the "ADA4627-1BRZ 2x mono opamps on DIP-8 header" in my Z1.
With the Svara L still connected, the Bass seems tighter & more detailed; and the Midrange & Treble aren't as recessed - giving a more balanced sound.

With my favorite Midrange forward earbuds (VE Asura 2.0 2.5TRRS w/3.5mm-2.5mm adapter), the Midrange & Treble are really clear & detailed when using the ADA4627-1BRZ, but the Bass doesn't have the same impact as several of my other opamps.
Was just thinking, that for the cost of the ADA4627-1BRZ, I could have ordered a Muses02...

Ref: Current list of opamps -
01.) ADA4627-1BRZ 2x mono opamps on DIP-8 header [1x, $46.39 ea]
02.) LME49720HA (TO-99 round metal case) [2x, $14.50 ea]
03.) LME49720NA [2x, $7.90 ea]
04.) AD825AR V3 2x mono opamps on DIP-8 header [2x, $7.00 ea]
05.) OPA2604AP [2x, $5.99 ea]
06.) PHILIPS NE5532N (Vintage - mid-90s) [3x, $3.95 ea]
07.) OPA2134PA [2x, $2.30 ea]
08.) TI NE5532P (stock in Z1 & v2) [2x]
09.) LF353N (purchased in the mid-80s) [3x]

 

[Nokizaru]

What opamp are you using in your Z1?

OPA2134PA, muses02 will soon replace it.

 

[heraleks]

It's 100 Ohms, that's why I raise the question.

I tried bypassing it, and sound seemed fine but damn loud (I guess a factor 2.5 louder). So one has to do something else also, change the potentiometer to a higher resistance one or some other voodoo magic.

Some on the other forum use 10 Ohms (Heraleks who might be here also?)

In my Walnut V2, I reduced the output resistance. This really improves bass control even with 150 ohms headphones and increases the volume.
If you just put the jumper instead of the resistors were distortion. With 10 Ohm, everything is fine, but you also need to increase the capacitance of the output capacitors to 470 μF. It is also desirable to use an operational amplifier with a high output current. I use the LM6172 with 50mA and it works well with 32 Ohm headphones.
Then I found a way to remove the resistors and to avoid distortion I applied snubber (serial connection opamp output - resistor - capacitor - GND). I selected the components of the snubber by ear and the best result was obtained with 5 Ohm resistors and 0.22 μF film capacitors. The 32 Ohm headphones began to sound even better compared to the 10 ohm output.

 

[knudsen]

In my Walnut V2, I reduced the output resistance. This really improves bass control even with 150 ohms headphones and increases the volume.
If you just put the jumper instead of the resistors were distortion. With 10 Ohm, everything is fine, but you also need to increase the capacitance of the output capacitors to 470 μF. It is also desirable to use an operational amplifier with a high output current. I use the LM6172 with 50mA and it works well with 32 Ohm headphones.
Then I found a way to remove the resistors and to avoid distortion I applied snubber (serial connection opamp output - resistor - capacitor - GND). I selected the components of the snubber by ear and the best result was obtained with 5 Ohm resistors and 0.22 μF film capacitors. The 32 Ohm headphones began to sound even better compared to the 10 ohm output.

Thanks a lot Heraleks I'm trying best I can to follow your discussion, you are a bunch of competent folks it seems
Also it would seem ClieOS here had the same idea for the lower impedance (previous page).
What I'm hoping is that one day maybe you guys agree more or less on some optimal mod/mods, as currently it is a little experimenting and in different directions Maybe even the creator would agree so we could all have a better v2 version - or several versions like the DSD, for different headphone impedances or sound preferences.
I may try the snubber mod on z1 when I find the courage, but I'm a little afraid it will take away what I like with z1. Stock I like z1 more than the others I have (dx90, clip+), maybe exactly because of impedance mismatch which gives it a fuller sound below. Personally I am not interested in a dx90 copy-sound, even though I am sure it is more correct and detailed. For me it is not charming in the same way.
I will receive dual opa627 in 2 hours, maybe that itself will give that fat sound I want, so I can do the impedance thing. But I think it does'nt have high output unfortunately.
Anyway, thanks for your explanation
Btw, do you have an idea what kind of sound all 4 mods described by sanmiguel will result in (like removing all input and output capacitors)? A more sterile sound?

 

[Ivan TT]

What I'm hoping is that one day maybe you guys agree more or less on some optimal mod/mods, as currently it is a little experimenting and in different directions

I'll second that!

Those "surovyj" russian guys are hard to follow and seem not to be that much concerned about those poor sods who have their hands shaking when holding a soldering iron (like myself) but trying to prove some point I cannot quite grasp

It would be great to arrive at some sort of consensus (and ideally easy to follow instructions even for a nub like myself) as to what mods could be done and the intended effect they produce.

At this stage I ordered some replacement capacitors (100uf 10V Nichicon Muse FG and 10uF 35V Japan ELNA ARS SILMIC, following maxkur's musings), but anything above and beyond that seems way to cryptic and sounds all Greek to me

 

[knudsen]

I'll second that!

Those "surovyj" russian guys are hard to follow and seem not to be that much concerned about those poor sods who have their hands shaking when holding a soldering iron (like myself) but trying to prove some point I cannot quite grasp

It would be great to arrive at some sort of consensus (and ideally easy to follow instructions even for a nub like myself) as to what mods could be done and the intended effect they produce.

At this stage I ordered some replacement capacitors (100uf 10V Nichicon Muse FG and 10uF 35V Japan ELNA ARS SILMIC, following maxkur's musings), but anything above and beyond that seems way to cryptic and sounds all Greek to me

I guess it is natural and they are just having fun with it I would'nt want to document too much in my spare time either - but we can hope My limit is also around changing those caps at the moment, its a big victory when nothing blows up and it still plays afterwards! To the degree one must be careful not to let it effect the judgement of the new sound I think mine are the same only silmic ii.