Home-Made IEMs
May 29, 2017 at 12:34 PM Post #6,541 of 15,989
Guys, what kind of glue you use to fix the connectors and faceplates. My acrylic is exfoliateson the shell, superglue is fragile and can not withstand loads when connecting/disconnecting the cable. I tried the cheap Chinese glue (Loco 1000), but it must be used in a thin layer, it does not harden completely when I try to attach the connector on the shell. Yomogi, with your permission, steal explaining the picture.
Future projects plan to use epoxy resin. Or try another UV glue. Kafuter K-3022 for example. And what glues you use for different purposes?

I use Bondic UV glue which cures very well, and seems to have a good load tolerance so far. I have not had any issues with connecting/disconnecting cables. You just have to make sure your shell and/or faceplate is clear so the UV light it comes with can reach the glue.

You can find it on Amazon.
 
May 29, 2017 at 4:17 PM Post #6,542 of 15,989
Guys, what kind of glue you use to fix the connectors and faceplates. My acrylic is exfoliateson the shell, superglue is fragile and can not withstand loads when connecting/disconnecting the cable. I tried the cheap Chinese glue (Loco 1000), but it must be used in a thin layer, it does not harden completely when I try to attach the connector on the shell. Yomogi, with your permission, steal explaining the picture.
Future projects plan to use epoxy resin. Or try another UV glue. Kafuter K-3022 for example. And what glues you use for different purposes?

I am using UV resin (cheap goods not medical grade).
Because it has high fluidity, it is necessary to paint in multiple times.
 
May 31, 2017 at 12:05 PM Post #6,545 of 15,989
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I had a graph from a friend's iem recently. Have a look and some thoughts
 

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May 31, 2017 at 8:39 PM Post #6,547 of 15,989
I finished up a personal set today, right is ice blue with zebra wood faceplate and custom Shiloh artwork. Left is a light grape color with abalone faceplate and custom lion artwork. Simple 3 driver using knowles GK.



Those look sweet! Can you tell me why are the dampers at different distance from the nozzles? Please where can I find the wire that you attached the MMCX to the drivers. I have some type1 10/44 litz that I was planning on using, but I like the wire you are using, it looks the same as the wire that the drivers come with.
14 insulated .06mm (enameled colors/polyurethane??) strands around a fiber core I can't seem to locate any.
 
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Jun 1, 2017 at 12:40 AM Post #6,550 of 15,989
That shell is ridiculously clear o.o Wow!
 
Jun 1, 2017 at 9:25 AM Post #6,553 of 15,989
That's the setup I'm currently using. The dampers don't boost bass, they just block out certain frequencies. I'm wondering if I bypass the built in crossover if that would help.
I think the cap acts as a low pass filter. Bypassing may not help. Since the red 2200 damper on the CI lowers the level as well as filtering frequencies, perhaps only using a green 1500 on the TWFK and no filter the CI would be better at letting the lower frequencies come through?
Also tubing diameter and length come into play as well as the distance of the damper from the nozzle.
 
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Jun 2, 2017 at 4:25 AM Post #6,555 of 15,989
Wow, those are simply beautiful Shiloh...

I have a question:

Some time ago I put a GK in a universal Shure replica shell and have been quite happy with it, except that the shells have some rough edges and become uncomfortable over time. Instead of sanding them down I've decided to re-shell the drivers. Sadly I don't have the time, money nor skill to make some CIEMs so I've ordered a pair of cheap IEMs that I plan to gut and replace the internals with the GK. These new shells have a wider spout that can accomodate two tubes. I often see CIEMs where the high frequency drivers are tucked in near the spout and the low frequency ones are further away - so I was thinking about separating the CI from the TWFK and doing just that. My question is: what are the advantages of doing this? Should I bother? I currently have the two driver spouts going into one tube with a green damper and I find the high frequencies to be a bit on the harsh side - and I wouldn't mind getting a little more bass out of them too. I was thinking of now using a red damper for the CI and a green one for the TWFK. Would tucking up the TWFK against the spout make the highs harsher? I suppose the simplest answer is "just try it out", but I would be grateful for any pointers as to what to expect.

Cheers!
 

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