[Azure]

Quote:

Originally Posted by swt61 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Are you going to buy one Azure? I saw that you were selling your Zhaolu.

I decided to keep my Zhaolu, and I certainly have the funds to buy the Zapfilter...but I'm not so sure if I should do it. I don't have the SR-404 rig anymore; all I'll have is the SR-001 MKII, and I don't see how much an in-ear speaker will benefit from a Zapfiltered Zhaolu. If I had a pair of full-sized cans I might go for it, but at the moment I'm not so sure as there are other things I'm considering buying (New receiver, parts to build a gaming computer, music CDs, etc.). Of course, I could argue that I'm going to get another full sized pair of cans in the future, so I might as well prepare a source for it in the mean time.

I also have to factor in the difficulty of the mod. I hate working with SMD since I suck at soldering, and I believe I'll have to buy new RCA/XLR jacks as well. It'd be a nice project, yes, but those SMD resistors are frightenly tiny

(Optical audio sealer for comparison)

They're just begging to be bridged...

 

[SayNoToPistons]

BTW. Has anyone tried upgrading the RCA jacks in the back? I feel like swapping in new gold plated fancy jacks just for the hell of it!

 

[Azure]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SayNoToPistons /img/forum/go_quote.gif BTW. Has anyone tried upgrading the RCA jacks in the back? I feel like swapping in new gold plated fancy jacks just for the hell of it!

looser101 changed the RCA jacks in the back when he installed Steve's Zapfilter:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...181056&page=34

 

[SayNoToPistons]

You want to do it first and make a "DIY" post to help guide me?

 

[Sinwerm]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SayNoToPistons /img/forum/go_quote.gif BTW. Has anyone tried upgrading the RCA jacks in the back? I feel like swapping in new gold plated fancy jacks just for the hell of it!

I recall the original RCAs that come with the D2.0 are the Iridium plated type (from a very early post) I don't know if much or any improvement would be noticed , still thinking of doing it myself though....

 

[Ori]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sinwerm /img/forum/go_quote.gif I recall the original RCAs that come with the D2.0 are the Iridium plated type (from a very early post) I don't know if much or any improvement would be noticed , still thinking of doing it myself though....

The 2.0 has very basic 2x3 RCA block, not unlike your average $29 DVD player. I wouldn't consider that a good quality connector...

Replacing the RCA jacks is an invasive procedure. I believe Renato removed the whole 2x3 block, which probably requires some de-soldering skills plus considerable mechanical force.
I opted to chop off only two of the six RCA jacks, so that the "leftover" from that 2x3 block is still in tact, attaching that end of the board to the back panel for mechanical support. To do that you have to saw off a third of the block and de-solder the two jacks. That's perhaps a more invasive procedure than Renato's...

Check out Jon_L's recent thread (comparing the AD and CS DAC boards) to see pics of the end result.
The good news is that even if you screw up, it's quite simple to patch this area of the board. Just remember to remove the DAC to protect it before you apply brute force...

 

[Sinwerm]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ori /img/forum/go_quote.gif The 2.0 has very basic 2x3 RCA block, not unlike your average $29 DVD player. I wouldn't consider that a good quality connector... Replacing the RCA jacks is an invasive procedure. I believe Renato removed the whole 2x3 block, which probably requires some de-soldering skills plus considerable mechanical force. I opted to chop off only two of the six RCA jacks, so that the "leftover" from that 2x3 block is still in tact, attaching that end of the board to the back panel for mechanical support. To do that you have to saw off a third of the block and de-solder the two jacks. That's perhaps a more invasive procedure than Renato's... Check out Jon_L's recent thread (comparing the AD and CS DAC boards) to see pics of the end result. The good news is that even if you screw up, it's quite simple to patch this area of the board. Just remember to remove the DAC to protect it before you apply brute force...

Thank you for the info , sounds like a bear to do , for me anyway. They are really that bad , I did not know. Thanks again.

 

[Azure]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ori /img/forum/go_quote.gif The 2.0 has very basic 2x3 RCA block, not unlike your average $29 DVD player. I wouldn't consider that a good quality connector... Replacing the RCA jacks is an invasive procedure. I believe Renato removed the whole 2x3 block, which probably requires some de-soldering skills plus considerable mechanical force. I opted to chop off only two of the six RCA jacks, so that the "leftover" from that 2x3 block is still in tact, attaching that end of the board to the back panel for mechanical support. To do that you have to saw off a third of the block and de-solder the two jacks. That's perhaps a more invasive procedure than Renato's... Check out Jon_L's recent thread (comparing the AD and CS DAC boards) to see pics of the end result. The good news is that even if you screw up, it's quite simple to patch this area of the board. Just remember to remove the DAC to protect it before you apply brute force...

What is the considerable mechanical force for? Your method seems more complicated than it should be. When I install the Zapfilter I plan to just desolder the RCA connectors, unscrew the block, and remove the 2 x 3 set of RCA jacks. Then replace with 2 good pair of jacks and just solder them to the outputs on the Zapfilter.

 

[Radon12]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Azure /img/forum/go_quote.gif I also have to factor in the difficulty of the mod. I hate working with SMD since I suck at soldering, and I believe I'll have to buy new RCA/XLR jacks as well. It'd be a nice project, yes, but those SMD resistors are frightenly tiny

If I remember correct you post pic of you caps bypass mod and it look quite bad. I think zapfilter WAY harder to install than do that mod. If you decide get zapfilter give that instalation to someone pro solderer.

 

[swt61]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Azure /img/forum/go_quote.gif looser101 changed the RCA jacks in the back when he installed Steve's Zapfilter: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...181056&page=34

And new balanced Nuetriks as well. Too many changes took place to be able to comment on any change in SQ due to the jacks. They are certainly much nicer units than stock though.

 

[daggerlee]

Called partsconnexion. After some initial confusion they are now saying they will ship my order out today! Bought some neutrik xlr jacks to stick in there as well. Can't wait.

 

[fran]

Hi All, and I guess to SeanH in particular!

I received my LM4562s yesterday( - from singapore/UPS to here in abut 6 days, inlcuding holidays etc - not bad fo $10) and what I've done is put 2 of them into the analog stage of my 2.5C and the third into the headphone amp (I have the 2.5C with amp upgrade) The opamp that was in the headphone amp is labelled "082D JRC 3087B" - haven't searched for it yet but the LM4562 seems to work just fine in there instead of it.

So that leaves me the original op amp in the power supply. Is there any benefit to changing out the stock one for either the LT1057 or 2607s that I already have here? The one thats in there is labelled AD 5155 (and uinderneath it 8572). What do you gurus think?

your humble acolyte,
Fran

 

[Azure]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Radon12 /img/forum/go_quote.gif If I remember correct you post pic of you caps bypass mod and it look quite bad. I think zapfilter WAY harder to install than do that mod. If you decide get zapfilter give that instalation to someone pro solderer.

I believe I was just working with a bad iron tip when I did that mod. I'd say I'm a decent solderer when it comes to normal sized parts/situations like that, but I'm definetly crap when it comes to SMD (I have no idea how you guys can make those incredibly small solder connections without bridging anything)

 

[Sean H]

Quote:

Originally Posted by fran /img/forum/go_quote.gif So that leaves me the original op amp in the power supply. Is there any benefit to changing out the stock one for either the LT1057 or 2607s that I already have here? The one thats in there is labelled AD 5155 (and uinderneath it 8572). What do you gurus think?

Hi Fran - You will have to let us know what you think of the 4562's. All of the opamps in the Zhaolu's are dual's so the 4562's will work anywhere. Like you I have two of them in the two slots in the analog stage. I have an AD823 in the power supply which I found works a little better than the 4562 to my ears but the 4562 does work nice there too. The opamp in the power supply does make an audible difference but it's fairly subtle. Also, the opamp in the discrete amp makes an audible difference as well and I would use anything but the stock opamp that was in there. I found an OPA2107 or an OPA2604 works great there. Have not tried a 4562 there yet. Never heard the LT1057. I don't use the discrete amp too much myself.

 

[fran]

Early impressions on the LM4562 in the upgrade headphone amp would lead me to think that its a good improvement over the original. More detail, more separation between instruments and treble better quality (less fizziness to cymbals and more realism). Its very early but I'd have to say if you use the headphone amp at all and you have a lm4652 its worth sticking it in there. How it compares to a 2604/2107 I just don't know.

Want to listen to it in the main system now so will reoprt back shortly on this

Fran