[project86]

My D100 has excellent channel balance, even using very sensitive IEMs at low volumes. I think it is just luck of the draw though as I've had issues with low level balance on several fairly expensive amps... I bet if you took a dozen of the same model of potentiometer, some of them would be perfect and others would have varying degrees of imbalance.
 
As for the knob making a "rubbing" sound: I bet it has a slight imperfection in shape and is thus dragging against the case at certain points in the rotation. Try pulling it gently and see if it slides out enough to fix the problem. I don't see a screw holding it on so I bet it is the type that just slips on and stays due to pressure. Even if you pull it all the way off it shouldn't damage anything, and you could just push it right back on.

 

[Zida]

I felt that metal on metal rubbing briefly when I first had it, but I tugged on the knob gently and now it turns smooth. One thing about the volume knob I don't like though is how it bumps along in steps, some times I find the next step up is a touch loud but I want it louder than my current step. I sometimes manage to have it sit between the two settings, but I think I personally prefer smooth volume pots over step based ones. This would be a bigger deal with more sensitive headphones I imagine.

 

[igotnojob]

 
Quote:

I felt that metal on metal rubbing briefly when I first had it, but I tugged on the knob gently and now it turns smooth. One thing about the volume knob I don't like though is how it bumps along in steps, some times I find the next step up is a touch loud but I want it louder than my current step. I sometimes manage to have it sit between the two settings, but I think I personally prefer smooth volume pots over step based ones. This would be a bigger deal with more sensitive headphones I imagine.

Does that mean the volume pot on the D100 is not a digital potentiometer but an analog one with mechanical steps instead? If so, you could probably pry off the knob and sand/dremel away the detent notches to convert it to a smooth turning pot.

 

[Zida]

I don't necessarily know that it's not digital, but it does have mechanical steps where you can get an in between volume if you're careful to.

I'll definitely keep the sand-mod in mind.

 

[cheaphifi]

Quote:

It is not a wire from inside the case. The rattle persists even when the cover is off. The rattle sounds like it is coming from inside the little plastic enclosure attached to the inside of the case area where the power cord attaches. It does not sound like a loose wire but more like a small loose pebble instead. It only makes the sound when I turn the unit upside down. I haven't tried shaking it vigorously.
 
I just noticed that on page 14 of the owner's manual it reads (under part #14):
"Fused Power socket. There is a spare fuse in it that can be used when necessary"
 
Do you think it might be the spare fuse that is rolling around in there? Does your unit make a rattling noise when you turn it end for end?

I think THIS will answer to your questions : (it's not a Yulong but you'll understand) :
 

 

[igotnojob]

 
Quote:

Quote:

It is not a wire from inside the case. The rattle persists even when the cover is off. The rattle sounds like it is coming from inside the little plastic enclosure attached to the inside of the case area where the power cord attaches. It does not sound like a loose wire but more like a small loose pebble instead. It only makes the sound when I turn the unit upside down. I haven't tried shaking it vigorously.
 
I just noticed that on page 14 of the owner's manual it reads (under part #14):
"Fused Power socket. There is a spare fuse in it that can be used when necessary"
 
Do you think it might be the spare fuse that is rolling around in there? Does your unit make a rattling noise when you turn it end for end?

I think THIS will answer to your questions : (it's not a Yulong but you'll understand) :
 

 
 
Please forgive me my ignorance. I don't really have any idea how power fuses work in these things. It seems from the photo that the fuse and spare fuse was indeed from the little enclosure near the power cord. But it also seems as if the spare fuse is attached to the fuse. If the fuse is in use, would this not prevent the entire assembly from rattling around loose in the enclosure?
 
So before I get my hopes up, I suppose my dumb question of the day is: does this mean that the rattle is fine or an anomaly?

 

[cheaphifi]

Quote:

Please forgive me my ignorance. I don't really have any idea how power fuses work in these things. It seems from the photo that the fuse and spare fuse was indeed from the little enclosure near the power cord. But it also seems as if the spare fuse is attached to the fuse. If the fuse is in use, would this not prevent the entire assembly from rattling around loose in the enclosure?
 
So before I get my hopes up, I suppose my dumb question of the day is: does this mean that the rattle is fine or an anomaly?

Lol i was ignorant like you, but it took me 30 seconds to make a search on the web to find theses infos, the "rattle" when you shake or move your Yulong is totally normal because it's due to the "spare fuse" which is moving a little, just enjoy your music and stop worrying man
 
Don't worry i read that you've bought your DAC to the ebay seller wsz0304, it's a good seller and in case of problem you can use your warranty without any problem, i personally experienced it and he was very serious.

 

[rymd]

Has anyone heard this with an LCD-2? Looking at the specs, this looks like it could adequately drive an LCD-2

 

[igotnojob]

Thanks for the clarification, cheaphifi. That is great news indeed! Now I can enjoy the listening part without any lingering worries to weigh me down. SUCH a relief!
 
And I agree with you about wsz0304. Haven't needed support from him yet but he was awesome about communication, being very proactive about emailing me to thank me for the order and sending me prompt EMS tracking info. It was door-to-door in a week here to the East Coast. Very, very impressed by this eBay seller, especially when compared to others who I never receive any communication from and get an unexpected delivery at my door without ever having known it was shipped.

 

[kkl10]

Quote:

Thanks for the clarification, cheaphifi. That is great news indeed! Now I can enjoy the listening part without any lingering worries to weigh me down. SUCH a relief!
 
 

  +1.
 
project86, in one of your last posts, I saw that you mentioned the Fischer Audio FA-003...
Do you own that headphone? Or have you just heard it through the D100?
 
If so could you say if you think of it as a neutral and transparent sounding one?
How would you describe it soundwise?
And is it's performance in level with DT990 or HD600?
 
That was one of the headphones I was interested in when making my searching for a transparent headphone to pair with my Yulong D100 and I'm still not sure of what to think of it yet.
 
Some say that it rivals 300$ headphones like HD600 or Denon D2000, while others say it's just a good under 200$ one...
What do you think?
 
Thanks!

 

[ninjikiran]

Quote:

Has anyone heard this with an LCD-2? Looking at the specs, this looks like it could adequately drive an LCD-2

If its anything like the M-stage then definitely.
 
Now whether or not its the best pairing with them is another story.

 

[cheaphifi]

Quote:

Quote:

Has anyone heard this with an LCD-2? Looking at the specs, this looks like it could adequately drive an LCD-2

If its anything like the M-stage then definitely.
 
Now whether or not its the best pairing with them is another story.

IMHO if you pair the Yulong D100 with and Audio GD C-2 SA (1000Mw with 300 Ohms, yeah it's 1 Watt / 300 Ohms no type mismatch !), you'll get a combo which can drive any headphones on the market without problem, even UFOs like AKG K-1000, LCD-2, etc...
 
Look at the specs of the C-2 SA : http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/Headphoneamp/C-2SA/C2SAEN.htm
 
300$ for the Audio GD C-2 SA, even the M-stage cant compete at this price...

 

[project86]

 
Quote:

project86, in one of your last posts, I saw that you mentioned the Fischer Audio FA-003...
Do you own that headphone? Or have you just heard it through the D100?
 
If so could you say if you think of it as a neutral and transparent sounding one?
How would you describe it soundwise?
And is it's performance in level with DT990 or HD600?
 
That was one of the headphones I was interested in when making my searching for a transparent headphone to pair with my Yulong D100 and I'm still not sure of what to think of it yet.
 
Some say that it rivals 300$ headphones like HD600 or Denon D2000, while others say it's just a good under 200$ one...
What do you think?
 
Thanks!

Yes, I recently picked up the Fischer FA-003. I like them about as much as LFF did when he reviewed them, which is to say I'm one of the people who thinks they compete with the likes of HD600. They sound amazingly open for a sealed headphone and I find them very comfortable as well. The build quality, while certainly adequate, is the one giveaway that reveals their budget price.
 
The FA-003 paired with the D100 is a very good match. While working on my review of the Yulong A100 amp, I did a lot of switching back and forth between the A100 and the built in amp of the D100. While many headphones did sound better through the A100, the FA-003 was pretty much maxed out by the D100 alone. I thought I heard a hint more sooundstage definition through the A100 but the effect was minimal. I would highly recommend that pairing to anyone looking for a detailed and neutral performance at a great price. Add the woody sides which are fairly cheap and you've got a great looking setup too.
 
 
Quote:

IMHO if you pair the Yulong D100 with and Audio GD C-2 SA (1000Mw with 300 Ohms, yeah it's 1 Watt / 300 Ohms no type mismatch !), you'll get a combo which can drive any headphones on the market without problem, even UFOs like AKG K-1000, LCD-2, etc...
 
Look at the specs of the C-2 SA : http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/Headphoneamp/C-2SA/C2SAEN.htm
 
300$ for the Audio GD C-2 SA, even the M-stage cant compete at this price...

Raw power does not necessarily equate to higher performance. If we are talking about the HE-6 then yes the extra power is likely to be needed, but remember the LCD-2 was designed to be relatively easy to drive. The C-2 SA page describes it like this: "[size=medium]Its sound a bit of softness, warm and relaxed, allows users to pleasantly listening for a long time." If that's true, and it is what you are after, the C-2 SA looks like an excellent choice, but not everyone is after that type of sound. Nothing against the C-2 SA at all.... it's just better to look at the whole picture rather than judge by the specs alone.[/size]
 
 
 

 

[kkl10]

Quote:

Yes, I recently picked up the Fischer FA-003. I like them about as much as LFF did when he reviewed them, which is to say I'm one of the people who thinks they compete with the likes of HD600. They sound amazingly open for a sealed headphone and I find them very comfortable as well. The build quality, while certainly adequate, is the one giveaway that reveals their budget price.
 
The FA-003 paired with the D100 is a very good match. While working on my review of the Yulong A100 amp, I did a lot of switching back and forth between the A100 and the built in amp of the D100. While many headphones did sound better through the A100, the FA-003 was pretty much maxed out by the D100 alone. I thought I heard a hint more sooundstage definition through the A100 but the effect was minimal. I would highly recommend that pairing to anyone looking for a detailed and neutral performance at a great price. Add the woody sides which are fairly cheap and you've got a great looking setup too.
 
 

Damn man! I should keep my mouth shut!
Now I'll have to seriously consider this headphone. :/
 
The Yulong D100 + FA-003 is a very tempting setup indeed.
I still prefer the GMP 450 Pro from the descriptions I've read but now it's harder to ignore the FA-003... such sound quality at such price.
 
Curse you, project86! And thanks!
Are you planning writing a review of them or has ClieOs and LFF covered a lot of ground already?

 

[svyr]

>Has anyone heard this with an LCD-2? Looking at the specs, this looks like it could adequately drive an LCD-2

plugged an LCD-2 into my D100 at the melbourne meet. Not a good match/doesn't drive them well