Recabling Denon AH-D1001 (&D1000)
Apr 26, 2009 at 3:57 AM Post #62 of 84
Quote:

Originally Posted by ReD.SkY /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Is there a special way of ordering that doesnt cost $12 for shipping on a short cable and connector?


What exactly do you need? I may have some spare stuffs that I can ship out for you at whatever way you want.
 
Apr 26, 2009 at 4:10 AM Post #63 of 84
Quote:

Originally Posted by Lil' Knight /img/forum/go_quote.gif
What exactly do you need? I may have some spare stuffs that I can ship out for you at whatever way you want.


pretty much all the parts to mod these headphones.

6-8ft of Mogami 2893
Mini connector
Small amount of DynaMat and stuffing
 
May 7, 2009 at 8:00 AM Post #64 of 84
is there anyone that might be able to do the markL mod and a recabling job on my ah-d1001 headphones for me? obviously i would be willing to pay for the labor. i don't know how to solder at all and i don't think that i'll ever need to do it (with the exception of this one recabling job). or if you can just direct me to someone who may be able to do it.

thanks!
 
May 15, 2009 at 4:16 AM Post #66 of 84
Quote:

Originally Posted by ReD.SkY /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Alright, thats good to know.

Recabling really shouldnt be any different for the Creative Aurvana Live, right?



x2 does it really improve overall sound?
 
Apr 7, 2010 at 9:56 AM Post #67 of 84
recabling, seriously, should take well under an hour if you're experienced with an iron and soldering itself.

The first post in the thread explains most everything you need to know: just don't try using a Philips size 0 screwdriver, as it's too big.
I was trying to find a supadrive 0, but they're really difficult to find, so I'll just go for a 00 or 000 instead.

For information, each of the Mogami cores is around 1mm in diameter, so some 3.5mm heatshrink should be fine.
I used some duct tape on the inside of mine - round the cable, it then tucks nicely into the curve.

Mine also had some glue holding the cable in. I'm also 100% sure I put the cables in the right places, but I've tested with Focal disc 2 and know that the phase in one ear is wrong. I'll correct that when I stuff them, after I get some heatsink. I don't want to take them apart too many times.

Bret
 
Apr 8, 2010 at 1:52 AM Post #69 of 84
Quote:

Originally Posted by bretti_kivi /img/forum/go_quote.gif
yep. one of my drivers has the positive dot in a different place, so they're out of phase.


I have revised the instructions in the first post of this thread to reflect the possibility that the position of the red dot and hence the phase may vary.
 
May 2, 2010 at 3:03 PM Post #71 of 84
Quote:

Originally Posted by masterblaster /img/forum/go_quote.gif
with the new cable are they still able to be powered by a mp3 player without amp like the D2+ ?


Of course. If anything, conductivity improves, so they even ought to be a bit louder.
 
May 3, 2010 at 6:49 AM Post #72 of 84
Quote:

Originally Posted by Bostonears /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I have revised the instructions in the first post of this thread to reflect the possibility that the position of the red dot and hence the phase may vary.


Thanks.

After run-in - so around 100 hours of use - these are great. I haven't stuffed the cups and don't feel the need to. Bass is through the floor and slams as necessary, treble is really sweet, but a *lot* more detailed than my HD 600s. I don't know which sound I prefer. I do know that these are great for the office - closed cups mean superb isolation for my colleagues
biggrin.gif


They also sound very nice on both my N900 and iAudio7.

Bret
 
Jun 10, 2010 at 6:32 PM Post #74 of 84
Very happy with my first re-cable and first soldering job. Great improvement in sound! Thanks for very good detailed instructions. It's like getting them new all over again! I use them with my D2 only and the bass is great! Dynamat is in the post as well, that should be an easer job! Can't wait but don't know if I need it now hehe.
 

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