[Planar_head]

Can't wait for some impressions!

 

[wualta]

Quote:

Originally Posted by catachresis Sim1, if you haven't seen this, it is very good to ponder: Fostex orthodynamic headphone identification guide.

Thanks for mentioning that. It needed a lot of cleaning up and updating.

 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Kabeer I have been waiting months...

Yes, it's true. Kabeer has been our persistent ambassador to this fledgling manufacturer at great cost to his sanity. But finally some of us will see the result.

 
Quote:

Originally Posted by ericj /img/forum/go_quote.gif I wonder what the heck they mean by "No steel used for magnetic return path".

Steel tends to be magnetically too "hard", giving you hysteresis effects (the magnetic field doesn't follow the magnetizing field because the material is hanging on to some magnetism). If you have a structural problem caused by superstrong magnets, steel isn't a bad compromise. The Audeze guys were worried about eddy currents such as might be found in a transformer core, so maybe they borrowed the idea of laminating their magnetic structure. Or maybe they have something else in mind. We should know soon.

 
Quote:

Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan Well, the rubber cement didn't hold so I had to use double-sided tape.

Have you ever tried contact cement, which is basically super rubber cement?
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan On the YH-100s, does opening the vents make the bass drop off or go up?

Opening the cup (ie, putting vents in it) keeps the driver from singing soprano, but lets bass backwave out unimpeded to futz with your enjoyment of life. Going halfway between sealed (=> soprano) and open (=> bass cancellation) by blocking the vents with a resistance (felt) gives you more of the bass the driver's putting out and doesn't push up the ol' f-sub-zero.

 
Quote:

Originally Posted by cetoole /img/forum/go_quote.gif Holy crap, I will definitely have to check these guys out. The only gear I brought was the NAD RP18, HP-1, and HP-50A, so it will be sweet to compare my stuff with this new Audeze cans!

A nice selection of stuff for comparison duties! Can't wait for the impressions to come rolling back across the continent.

 
Quote:

Originally Posted by xsankar /img/forum/go_quote.gif I will bring a transducer separately so people can look at it.

Thank you. You'll be able to identify our representative; he'll be the one with the jeweler's loupe.

Meanwhile, a few guesses based on the info given. The sensitivity is low, considering the neodymium magnets. This could mean they've given the diaphragm lots of room to move, so the 'phone will have bass. I assume they haven't skimped on the number of turns in the voice coil-- 80% coverage sounds pretty high. I'm assuming the voice coil is aluminum, and it's thinner than the tracks on the Yamaha diaphragms to get diaphragm mass down. They talk about getting the mass close to electrostat-diaphragm mass (comparable to the mass of the air being moved). Well, it can't be that low, but they know what target they have to hit, so they've thinned the diaphragm material a little too. The thinner track means it's more flexible but also less able to carry big current. They've added some mechanical damping too. 5 square inches is pretty big, (a 63.5mm diameter diaphragm) so this thing ought to have some serious bass. It all sounds good on paper, so let's wish them well. The devil is, as they say, in the details, and those details can get mighty expensive.

 

[smeggy]

I can't wait to hear impressions of them. Very exciting indeed!

 

[DefectiveAudioComponent]

To go with the deep bass, I hope it has airy highs, wonderful ortho voices, and this fine headstage I am enjoying from the Grundig at the moment. Not too much to ask, right?

 

[Kabeer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Audeze /img/forum/go_quote.gif Kabeer, Thank you very much for posting this. We really look forward to your opinions about our headphones and meeting all of you enthusiast.

Hi Audeze,
Heh yay you guys finally turned up, I was wondering if one one you was posting under a secret moniker. I'll leave out my gazzilion questions as you are already being bombarded, I hope they go down really well at CanJam, need to get people there aware about it.
This is actually as important a release in headphones as the HD-800 (PS1000 is just another grado reflavouring nothing really revolutionary there).

 

[Shoewreck]

5 square inches? I want it!

 

[DefectiveAudioComponent]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kabeer /img/forum/go_quote.gif This is actually as important a release in headphones as the HD-800 (PS1000 is just another grado reflavouring nothing really revolutionary there).

Could we compare it to something less expensive? There is no way that I could afford anything near that price range....
I'm more happy about this release than the HD800 or PS1000 though, both because I hope that this will actually be affordable, and because I want to know how an upgraded 2009 planar magnetic could be.

 

[sachu]

I'll be sure to take lots of photos

 

[Kabeer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DefectiveAudioComponent /img/forum/go_quote.gif Could we compare it to something less expensive? There is no way that I could afford anything near that price range.... I'm more happy about this release than the HD800 or PS1000 though, both because I hope that this will actually be affordable, and because I want to know how an upgraded 2009 planar magnetic could be.

That is what I am hoping too. I really do hope its also more in the normal down to Earth price range too. As this is where the big effect could be had. For instance the T50rp is relatively cheap. But if increased it's specs (driver size, cups) and price only a few fold I think they could easily destroy a lot of the Dynamic market.

Technologically it will be great to have someone other than Fostex making a Isodynamic headphone, and these guys seem to be thinking a lot more logically about the design than Fostex are.


Let's wait and see how this pans out....im guessing Audeze will release the price at CanJam or just before.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sachu /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'll be sure to take lots of photos

Yay!

 

[xaval]

So... who got these? I can't believe I missid it because of a stupid meeting!

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by wualta /img/forum/go_quote.gif Have you ever tried contact cement, which is basically super rubber cement? Opening the cup (ie, putting vents in it) keeps the driver from singing soprano, but lets bass backwave out unimpeded to futz with your enjoyment of life. Going halfway between sealed (=> soprano) and open (=> bass cancellation) by blocking the vents with a resistance (felt) gives you more of the bass the driver's putting out and doesn't push up the ol' f-sub-zero.

Thanks Wualta. I didn't try contact cement, just used double-sided tape. The screws were all stripped out though, so I had to substitute the smallest metric machine screw I had. It was a perfect substitute except the head of the new screw is a tad too large in diameter with the countersink or tapered sides so it stands a little proud of the face plate. Not horrible, but it will require foam double-sided tape to get that last 2% seal.

I switched to a thin synthetic black felt in the vents from the thicker white Ludoo had in there. Added a second ring of blu-tak around the driver (1/2 the width of the standard extrusion) and the other half at the back on the bottom of the cup. Added a 30mm diameter disc of micropore tape directly to the back of the driver. Left out the foam and felt, then made a 45mm diameter disc of fiber glass about 15mm thick like Tomek's egg. This was special FG from my old original (and sadly, completely trashed) Advent speakers. Used my adapters again and the sound was better, but back to being under-damped and dark with the ESW9 pads. Swapped in the R10 pads and wow, bass jumped way up and treble came up, but it's only 85% there.

I need a touch more dampening on the bass, or rather I need to get the treble up. So now the debate is whether to just completely tape off the driver, or tape off the driver and add a little wider disc of FG. The bass with the R10 pads is great, very clean, maybe just a tad bloomed, but compared to the other ways it's been, this is definitely the best it's been. Snares are spot on, piano is about as good as I've heard from any of my cans, just quiet, like a 5dB shelf down. Same for the upper highs. They're there, just too quiet. More volume doesn't solve it, the bass raises with the rest. I think adding more FG would risk making the bass muddy again, correct? I may just add the cashmere disc back in behind the cheescloth over the micropore before the FG is the complete tape doesn't work.

 

[wualta]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan I switched to a thin synthetic black felt in the vents from the thicker white Ludoo had in there.

Yeah, you can approach sealing the cup if you use felt that's too dense, although I don't know that ludoo's felt was that much more dense than stock.


Quote:

Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan Added a 30mm diameter disc of micropore tape directly to the back of the driver. Left out the foam and felt, then made a 45mm diameter disc of fiber glass about 15mm thick like Tomek's egg. ...sound was better, but back to being under-damped and dark..

Fiberglass, even the fine stuff used in closed-box speakers, isn't dense enough to make much resistance to airflow, though it's great for sopping up treble so it doesn't bounce around in the typical Yamaha enclosure, creating mischief. A circle of micropore that doesn't cover the entire back is basically a slightly-porous reflex dot. The major airflow will simply detour around it and come out the surrounding uncovered holes. R10 pads must be expensive, but it sounds like they have properties we should study.


Quote:

Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan I need a touch more dampening on the bass, or rather I need to get the treble up. So now the debate is whether to just completely tape off the driver, or tape off the driver and add a little wider disc of FG.

As a start, try taping the driver, but make a slice in the tape to let out the solder lug and wire for the central electrode so all the tape is snug up against the driver, no bubbles or any way for the backwave to get out except through the pores. Pop in the fiberglass as a treble sponge.


Quote:

Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan I think adding more FG would risk making the bass muddy again, correct? I may just add the cashmere disc back in behind the cheesecloth over the micropore before the FG if the complete tape doesn't work.

I don't think adding more FG will hurt anything, though it might soak up enough backwave treble to bring the top end of the frequency response graph down noticeably. Might be handy if the full-micropore treatment overdamps a little.

Sachu, take lots of pictures. Practice using your macro setting and turn on your burst mode.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by wualta /img/forum/go_quote.gif Yeah, you can approach sealing the cup if you use felt that's too dense, although I don't know that ludoo's felt was that much more dense than stock. Fiberglass, even the fine stuff used in closed-box speakers, isn't dense enough to make much resistance to airflow, though it's great for sopping up treble so it doesn't bounce around in the typical Yamaha enclosure, creating mischief. A circle of micropore that doesn't cover the entire back is basically a slightly-porous reflex dot. The major airflow will simply detour around it and come out the surrounding uncovered holes. R10 pads must be expensive, but it sounds like they have properties we should study. As a start, try taping the driver, but make a slice in the tape to let out the solder lug and wire for the central electrode so all the tape is snug up against the driver, no bubbles or any way for the backwave to get out except through the pores. Pop in the fiberglass as a treble sponge. I don't think adding more FG will hurt anything, though it might soak up enough backwave treble to bring the top end of the frequency response graph down noticeably. Might be handy if the full-micropore treatment overdamps a little. Sachu, take lots of pictures. Practice using your macro setting and turn on your burst mode.

Thanks wualta. And you too, dB.

I have the micro pore already in the center, slit and tucked under the electrode. I'm going to tape off the rest of the driver, put the cheesecloth back over the tape, then place the cashmere dot back on the center, but not secure it, then the FG will stay the same. The felt I used on the vents is probably less restrictive than Ludoo's original white felt as it's thinner and perf'ed with micro holes. I'll report the results later.



On other ortho news, malldian's former T20s showed up today. Thanks Matt! Looked at the driver and pad and thought. Hmmm, that sure looks like a Beyer or K240 Sextett sized cup. My KT88 Sextett pads had shown up over the weekend, so the old pads were on my desk. THEY FIT! Then I took the original YH100 pads and slipped them in under the K240 pads to replicate the size of the old T20 pad. Super comfy! I think the Koss R10 pads will work just as well as a new pad as it's opening is nearly identical to the 20s pad. The wiring and hangers on these T20s are shot, could only get both channels to work with the connector cable and main cable in very particular positions, but I managed to get it in the correct position and both drivers worked. WOW! They had bass and highs off my Audigy2 breakout box which completely sucks the life out of the T50RPs and most of my other orthos. Haven't tried the T20s on my CR-620 yet, as it was a real PITA to get both drivers working. I'll take pics of the pad arrangement later. I also have a set of KT88 pads that the pleather peeled off and look like velour now. I know the bass will be reduced, but I bet the T20s will sound really open and airy with that arrangement and still have enough bass on the CR-620. I remain optimistic until I prove it otherwise...

Now I have to decide if I want to recable the T20s and try to fix the cups, or just woodie them and try to replicate the OEM cup volumes, or proceed as intended and dampen the T10 drivers i the KH-83, then swap drivers and listen again.

All this pad, dampening, and different driver experimentation and I haven't even touched my bass heavy YH-3s yet!

Mainly because I misplaced Ludoo's post on dampening them that I had printed off and just haven't taken the time to search for it again. That and I'm waiting for a few cables to show up. Might have to swipe the cable intended for my ESW9s and put it on the YH-3s... At least temporarily for an audition.

But, I'm definitely learning quickly and getting ready to start the attack on the SFI woodies.

 

[Rick]

Brian: You should really consider getting some bitumen to use instead of blu-tak. I found it made a world of difference when I made that switch.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by fsma /img/forum/go_quote.gif Brian: You should really consider getting some bitumen to use instead of blu-tak. I found it made a world of difference when I made that switch.

Meh. I won't use bitumen because it's a petroleum-based product and will off-gas noxious fumes. They aren't my YH-100s, but I'd still have to smell the off-gasses while I experiment. I need to order the more environmentally-friendly version of dynamat from Parts Xpress and see how it does. I'd like to find some Mass Loaded Vinyl to try too. I know the MLV is also petroleum-based, but it's out-gassing doesn't give me a headache the way bitumen does. I tried to find the mass loaded caulk too and no home improvement stores here carry it.

The T20v2's cable was the main problem. I swapped the cable from my T50s and they played much better on the CR-620 receiver. The K240/YH100 pad combo is magic with those cans. They are just a little under damped stock, but sound better than all of the other orthos currently under my roof. I'll probably play with the stock cups a bit and deaden them as much as I can, then recable the drivers. I need to swap parts between the T50s and T20s to get the T20s solid and secure.

The Koss R10 pads didn't sound quite as good as the YH-100 pads in the K240s on the T20s. Rythmndevils suggested that I brick the R10s for a while to get them a little flatter for his YH-100s, so I'll do that and then try them in the T20s again too. I trying to find a pad combo that can be easily replicated with new pads that aren't difficult to source for others with the round T20/T50 cans. The new T50RPs have bigger cups that are oval, so I'm not willing to try to force my K240 pads on them and risk tearing a $30 set of pads.