[mmerrill99]

Quote:

I don't k now whether jkeny would be interested in testing the Digital Interface,I don't have a hi-face so there is no way I can compare the two.

Digital interface of what?

 

[mmerrill99]

Quote:

I tried the 50 ohm version and it really did improve the sound quite a bit.  This doesn;t surprise me as I think that the stock hiface BNC is 50 ohm,  you can tell by the size of the dielectric surounding the TX pin,  the stock hiiface BNC is no where close the dimensions of a true Amphenol 75ohm connector (Amphenol is a trusted brand.)  I suggestion anyone swap the hiface BNC for the Amphenol version, also the pulse transformer for the Scientific Conversion,  and last add the attenuator (75 ohm)  prior to investing in a $500 digital cable.  I'll never spend that much on a cable but it just makes sense to cover the basics first. 

I don't think the dialectric around the TX pin is a visual identifier of a 50ohm connector - this only applies to the female RX part where a dialectric ring inside the ground shield is a sign of a 50ohm part.
 
I posted about this in another thread because I had bought 75ohm Huber & Suhner 75 ohm attenuators & I thought I had been duped because they looked like this: note the white insulation ring - this is a 50ohm connection at this end anyway. This image is taken from their web-site & is also on their datasheet. Joseph K checked his & also confirmed that they were also like this. I emailed H&S but because I didn't buy them from their official distributor @ €45,each,  they won't deal with my request for technical information about this part. They are saying I should look for my money back even though these are genuine H&S 75ohm attenuators. A bit arrogant & not very forthcoming which make me they are think they are hiding smething. 
 
So you see it's not just cheap parts that are suspect even the reputable H&S seem to have it wrong although I don't know why they would do this?
 
You can see now why I recommend minicircuits - firstly they are $12 parts compared to what $60 for H&S. Secondly their 75 ohm part looks like it's really 75ohm.

 

[FauDrei]

Hi FauDrei,
 
just wonder if you have compared the modded hiface with other dedicated cd transport ?

Well, stock hiFace was already in most aspects better than my Marantz (CD63SE), but that's not saying much.
 
Recently I brought my modded hiFace and DB-510 to my friend's place and it trashed his old Sony <something> ES into his Benchmark DAC1 USB (that I don't like).
 
O, ya... Benchmark's USB input? Bah, Sony CD player through SPDIF was better. Especially with Oyaide digital cable.

 

[keyboard]

Quote:

Digital interface of what?

audio-gd's Digital Interface.

 

[keyboard]

The digital interface bu audio gd.

 

[mmerrill99]

Quote:

The digital interface bu audio gd.

I don't have a Audio-gd USBface so I don't think so - anyway, is that not what audio-gd are doing themselves & publishing their findings?

 

[keyboard]

The findings are not published,the test user results will be published.you should have applied for being a test user.

 

[mmerrill99]

I didn't see that option anywhere!

 

[keyboard]

That was on their website,not there anymore.

 

[regal]

Quote:

I don't think the dialectric around the TX pin is a visual identifier of a 50ohm connector - this only applies to the female RX part where a dialectric ring inside the ground shield is a sign of a 50ohm part.
 
 

If [size=x-small]Mr. He Qinghua [/size] (Audiogd) identified it as a 50 ohm BNC odds are good that it is IMHO.  It cost me $8 and 15 minutes with the soldeing iron to replace it.

 

[mmerrill99]

Quote:

If [size=x-small]Mr. He Qinghua [/size] (Audiogd) identified it as a 50 ohm BNC odds are good that it is IMHO.  It cost me $8 and 15 minutes with the soldeing iron to replace it.

As you said yourself, he's not infallible, none of us are, especially not the pope who claims infallibility 

 
Most people don't own a soldering iron or want to invalidate their warranty!
 

 

[tomasino]

Hi jkenny, i would like to try doing you "battery mod" myself. I looked to all you photos and description of that. I´m total noob in electrotechnics and soldering, so i´m sorry for maybe little bit stupid questions.
For me battery mod for clocks seems clear. Mainly from Regal´s picture: http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/446375/usb-24-192khz-m2tech-hiface/1320#post_6718773
 
But problematic for me is understanding what must i exactly do to complete battery power mod for rest of board. I´m attaching you image with description. First of all i must remove regulator on top. Next step is not clear for me. I marked two soldering points at bottom of board. Are these two right soldering points for battery conection or i´m wrong? I issued from you description, but not sure if i understand it right:
 
"The 3.3V external +ve supply can be connected to the square connection point at the bottom of the pic (just to the left of the W4 letters) & the -ve (ground) external 3.3V supply to the round pad to the left of this."
 

 

[tomasino]

Hi jkenny, i would like to try you "battery mod" myself. I´m looked at all your description and pictures at head-fi even at diyaudio. Unfortunatelly i´m total electrotechnics and soldering noob. So i´m sorry for maybe little bit stupid questions.
Battery mod for clocks seem very clear for me. Mainly from Regal´s picture: http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/446375/usb-24-192khz-m2tech-hiface/1320#post_6718740
 
But i have problem with understanding what exactly must be done if i want to complete external power for rest of hiface board. I know first step is removing regulator marked at top of your picture. But second step is not clear to me.
I´m attaching your picture of mod. I marked two soldering points for external power. Are these two points right or am i wrong? I issued from you description: "The 3.3V external +ve supply can be connected to the square connection point at the bottom of the pic (just to the left of the W4 letters) & the -ve (ground) external 3.3V supply to the round pad to the left of this."
 

 
Thank you for your help
 
Thomas
 
 

 

[mmerrill99]

Hi Thomas, I would just do the clock mod - it gets you 90% of the way there & is the easiest also. The rest is difficult for not as big a return. 
 
If you really want to go ahead then just remove the 3.3V regulator circled in yellow at the top of the picture & provide the external 3.3V supplies to the points you have identified at the bottom of the pic. 

 

[ccschua]

can I know what Thomas indicated "external + and - supply" are actually going into the 3.3V regulator ?
 
Which means just ground the enable pin, remove the regulator (optional) and supply 'another' 3.3V to the regulator right