M2Tech HiFace Mods and Discussions
Jul 20, 2010 at 12:19 PM Post #196 of 247


Quote:
can I know what Thomas indicated "external + and - supply" are actually going into the 3.3V regulator ?
 
Which means just ground the enable pin, remove the regulator (optional) and supply 'another' 3.3V to the regulator right


Yes those annotated connection points are +3.3V & ground connection points.
You will find grounding the enable pin to be quiet difficult - easier to remove the reg altogether BUT I'm suggesting NOT to do this at all, just do the clock mod as Regal has shown.
 
Jul 20, 2010 at 11:38 PM Post #197 of 247
If you decide to remove the regulator you will be going past a point of no return.  This PCB is thin and cheap,  it taks a lot of flux and heat to remove the regulator and probably will pull a trace or two up with it.  Be careful,  its easy to blow up the DIT which takes special solder and tips to remove and replace.
 
Jul 21, 2010 at 2:06 AM Post #198 of 247
Any chance to see the photo of the final version of Regal's mod?  Just want to look at the 75 ohm BNC connector and the new regulator used in the mod. 
 
Jul 21, 2010 at 8:00 AM Post #199 of 247


Quote:
Any chance to see the photo of the final version of Regal's mod?  Just want to look at the 75 ohm BNC connector and the new regulator used in the mod. 



I took the regulator out,  running a separate +5V B= just sets up a big ground loop that causes more harm then good.   The connector is self explainitor except TX+ and TX- are reversed,  you'll understand when you order the part.
 
Jul 23, 2010 at 6:35 AM Post #201 of 247

its safe but not neccesarily smart,  your "clean" 5V just made a big ground loop. I removed the separate 5v+ because it degraded the SQ in my setup. The Texas Instruments DIT4192 datasheet calls for an SC pulse transformer and I assume they know more than us.  Unitl Adum or whomever makes a 480mBS USB isolator and we can galvanically isolate the hiface from the computer I would stick with the pulse transformer.  
 
Quote:
Hello again JKenny, Regal,
 
My question is can i remove a pulse  trafo from Hiface, if i use a clean 5V (is this safe for unit)?
 
http://hawaya.snimka.bg/details/dax-hiface.508491.19312896,
 
Thanks in advance.



 
Jul 23, 2010 at 7:36 AM Post #203 of 247


You still have the ground of the PC connected otherwise it won't work right,  you can't isolate the Hiface from the computer,  so the external 5V+ just makes a big ground loop,  we are stuck with the dirty USB 5V+ for now.
 
Quote:
Thanks Regal,
 
What do you suggest, to remove the trafo with 5v (I use both positive and negative wire), and switch to dirty computer 5v from usb cable?
 
Regards



 
Jul 23, 2010 at 7:50 AM Post #204 of 247
So 5v from computer, the SQ is better? And what if i use 5v from battery?
beerchug.gif

 
Jul 31, 2010 at 2:34 PM Post #205 of 247
I modified the 5V supply to remove it from the USB input of the Hiface & supplied externally - I get no ground loop hum or noise! 
 
OT. Here's a brilliant idea - a LiFePO4 battery supply for audio - only costs $1,000 to upgrade your equipment. Some people athttp://www.computeraudiophile.com/content/Updated-Battery-technology-RWA think it's a great idea. Now why didn't I think of that 
grin.gif
(charging $1,000 instead of €50, I mean 
smokeing.gif
)
 
Jul 31, 2010 at 3:38 PM Post #206 of 247
Hey Jkeny...have you ever looked into using double-conversion online UPS power? I started reading up on these and apparently they output perfect sinewave power at all times. Would this essentially be the same as battery power to the amp, DAC, etc.? I will probably buy one regardless at some point.
 
Jul 31, 2010 at 4:58 PM Post #208 of 247
Thanks Jkenny, i don't have any hum too with external 5v, but is there any improvement with oscillators, i have with the second device one  small, and one big, or should i use other brand oscillator, with low ppm?
eek.gif
    
 
Jul 31, 2010 at 5:10 PM Post #209 of 247
I meant to say that my 5V was not from a battery & i still don't seem to have a ground loop but I'll investigate further.
 
I've stayed out of the oscillator discussions by & large but I really don't get it. Can I ask you this, what oscillator are you thinking of to replace the smaller osc.? How do you know the replacement one is lower jitter? Are there any specs for the "bad" oscillator - what is it's jitter spec? How does a change of PS make a "bad" oscillator into a "good" sounding one?
 
Have any of these questions been addressed?
 

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