[arirug]

Yesterday I got mail from Alpar, saying that they will send out my Heed Canamp by the beginning of next week. The waiting time has been hard, and expensive, since it made me buy a Darkvoice 336i too. And tubes. But it will be interesting comparing these and see which one I prefer.

 

[dw6928]

Quote:

Originally Posted by yrh0413 /img/forum/go_quote.gif yes it is basically the same but the film caps and power resistors are of different company; and the decoupling caps varies from amp to amp. Mine is 63V, then some are 35V...

"all components are technically unchanged" just passing along what I was told.

 

[leftnose]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Asr /img/forum/go_quote.gif I would but I don't have the appropriate utility in my toolbox for dealing with the type of screws on the amp. Maybe I'll get around to buying more tools sometime...

You need a metric hex key.

 

[Gaso]

Quote:

Originally Posted by yrh0413 /img/forum/go_quote.gif guys may i ask, if i want to swap the components in my CanAmp, which cable/parts should i disconnect from the chassis in order to access the underneath of the board?

From what I can tell

- remove the top cover (4 screws on the sides)
- remove the back plate (3 screws)
- remove the volume knob and pot shaft nut and washer from the front side
- remove the headphone jack nut and washer from the front side
- remove the 4 screws from the top of the board
- on the recent version the led legs are soldered directly to legs portdruding from the board (no wires here) and the led itself seems to be glued in front panel, so you'll have to desolder the legs before removing the board
- carefully remove the board by pulling backwards

That's it AFAIK.

 

[d-cee]

Quote:

Originally Posted by yrh0413 /img/forum/go_quote.gif guys may i ask, if i want to swap the components in my CanAmp, which cable/parts should i disconnect from the chassis in order to access the underneath of the board?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gaso /img/forum/go_quote.gif From what I can tell - remove the top cover (4 screws on the sides) - remove the back plate (3 screws) - remove the volume knob and pot shaft nut and washer from the front side - remove the headphone jack nut and washer from the front side - remove the 4 screws from the top of the board - on the recent version the led legs are soldered directly to legs portdruding from the board (no wires here) and the led itself seems to be glued in front panel, so you'll have to desolder the legs before removing the board - carefully remove the board by pulling backwards That's it AFAIK.

he's got it, my canamp also had the LED legs soldered directly on, I replaced it with some wire for ease of access

 

[yrh0413]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gaso /img/forum/go_quote.gif From what I can tell - remove the top cover (4 screws on the sides) - remove the back plate (3 screws) - remove the volume knob and pot shaft nut and washer from the front side - remove the headphone jack nut and washer from the front side - remove the 4 screws from the top of the board - on the recent version the led legs are soldered directly to legs portdruding from the board (no wires here) and the led itself seems to be glued in front panel, so you'll have to desolder the legs before removing the board - carefully remove the board by pulling backwards That's it AFAIK.

Thanks a lot!

Oh wait, how do you guys remove the headphone jack nut? I don't think my spanner fits the small gaps around the nut

 

[d-cee]

Quote:

Originally Posted by yrh0413 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Thanks a lot! Oh wait, how do you guys remove the headphone jack nut? I don't think my spanner fits the small gaps around the nut

needle nosed pliers or a socket wrench

 

[Gaso]

Quote:

Originally Posted by d-cee /img/forum/go_quote.gif he's got it, my canamp also had the LED legs soldered directly on, I replaced it with some wire for ease of access

Ah I see... So, no revisions there neither.

 

[djbnh]

Quote:

Originally Posted by yrh0413 /img/forum/go_quote.gif yes it is basically the same but the film caps and power resistors are of different company; and the decoupling caps varies from amp to amp. Mine is 63V, then some are 35V...

I'd like, if possible, to hear from more owners of current Heed CanAmps regarding changes in their respective unit from the earlier configured units. Film caps / resistors / decoupling caps can all possibly effect the SQ...for my $, this thread has more and more interesting turns.

As for those passing through comments made by "birdie"s. I don't know what to make of those comments, seeing they are second-hand, and not verifiable nor attributable to any manufacturer or dealer at this time. Perhaps the so-called "birdie" might consider stepping up to the thread and personally addressing Heed CanAmp owners, prospective owners, and prospective bashers about the seeming confusion.

 

[yrh0413]

Quote:

Originally Posted by djbnh /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'd like, if possible, to hear from more owners of current Heed CanAmps regarding changes in their respective unit from the earlier configured units. Film caps / resistors / decoupling caps can all possibly effect the SQ...for my $, this thread has more and more interesting turns. As for those passing through comments made by "birdie"s. I don't know what to make of those comments, seeing they are second-hand, and not verifiable nor attributable to any manufacturer or dealer at this time. Perhaps the so-called "birdie" might consider stepping up to the thread and personally addressing Heed CanAmp owners, prospective owners, and prospective bashers about the seeming confusion.

As mentioned earlier, there are no changes in terms of resistors, capacitors, film caps, diodes' values. All are still the same with the later batch when compared with the earlier batch, just that Heed Audio might have changed its supplier or whatever. Do note that the CanAmp still uses generic components like Jamicon caps and "unknown" film caps.

Imho, most of us CanAmp owners upgraded from inferior amps and that is why the CanAmp gave us the "Wow!" factor. But to those who owns a high-end rig, the CanAmp simply does not do well to their ears. It is very natural for us humans to compare one thing to another. Till now i still don't think Asr's CanAmp is faulty in anyway (except the "very hot" problem sounds like a faulty unit). If i were to review my 1st headamp (the Little Dot 2+), most probably i'll end up revealing tons of flaws from the LD.

 

[dizzyorange]

Canamp is delivered! After 100 pages of discussion I'm pretty hyped to listen to this thing.

 

[Morph201]

LOL! Don't fall into that trap.... try to remain calm, keep an even keel while evaluating.....

 

[dw6928]

and the 200 hour watermark is not a joke!

 

[dizzyorange]

I got this used from another head-fier. He said he basically left it on for 3 months straight, so it should be properly burned in. So far it sounds very good. The edges of bass notes seem better defined than the tube amp I'm coming from.

Quote:

LOL! Don't fall into that trap.... try to remain calm, keep an even keel while evaluating.....

Haha I'm trying my best.

 

[Morph201]

Quote:

Originally Posted by dizzyorange /img/forum/go_quote.gif Canamp is delivered! After 100 pages of discussion I'm pretty hyped to listen to this thing.

*ahem* Did ya listen yet? Whatcha think?????