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GUSTARD H10 High-current Discrete Class A output Stage Headphone Amplifier
Aug 17, 2015 at 8:49 PM Post #3,062 of 5,553
swannie007 said:
So, how about them Dodgers huh?
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 Yeah, I'm sorry for my part in the OT. It didn't occur to me that the dac conversation could have migrated back to this thread, again! 
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I got caught out and joined in myself. 
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For what it's worth I've removed my posts.
 
Anyway, I'm still waiting/hoping for my H10 to find a bit more bass weight and body, with the lcd2f.
 
Aug 17, 2015 at 9:39 PM Post #3,063 of 5,553
giof71 said:
   
In reality, it's not the SMSL Sanskrit the item I sent back. It was a spdif interface, chinese brand. I own a nice dac from the same brand, it is very good gear. Also the seller was kind enough, so I really have little to complain. Only, I lost a lot of time trying to make that interface work. It only worked when I bought the Schiit Wyrd.
 
The SMSL Sanskrit works well in coaxial mode when connected to the Audiophonics interface I bought to replace the previous interface.
No reason to send it back, considering also the low price.
The issues in usb mode are only with (my) laptops, so while this dac is not an excellent purchase, it works almost fine. So I am keeping it, even if I am not fully satisfied. As I told I am using it on vacation on a very old system, so the expectations are not that high :)
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As they should not be... as I mentioned... many older computers just don't get it for high quality music reproduction... You can't blame any of the peripherals..
 
Aug 18, 2015 at 3:14 AM Post #3,065 of 5,553
What do you guys think is a logical upgrade from the Gustard H10 under $1200? Keeping the similar sound signature. I really like how the Gustard H10 sounds by default. This tubey rounded sound is pretty good. Thinking of upgrading but not sure what to.
 
Aug 18, 2015 at 3:49 AM Post #3,066 of 5,553
jozurr said:
What do you guys think is a logical upgrade from the Gustard H10 under $1200? Keeping the similar sound signature. I really like how the Gustard H10 sounds by default. This tubey rounded sound is pretty good. Thinking of upgrading but not sure what to.
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It depends on which 'phones you want to drive.
Remember, that's the job of the amp; to drive your chosen headphones. So, the amp should have the correct power characteristics for those 'phones.

It seems like you'd like a (real) tube amp. I think there're a few, within your budget.
 
Aug 18, 2015 at 3:52 AM Post #3,067 of 5,553
bassdigger said:
It depends on which 'phones you want to drive.
Remember, that's the job of the amp; to drive your chosen headphones. So, the amp should have the correct power characteristics for those 'phones.

It seems like you'd like a (real) tube amp. I think there're a few, within your budget.
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I want to drive the HE-560 and potentially the HE-1000 in the future. The thing with real tube amps is, from some that I've heard, the distortion they seem to add isn't nice. It seems to take away some clarity and detail. I'd be open to suggestions on tube amps as well if they don't sacrifice on clarity and detail and giving me an added lower end bump.
 
Aug 18, 2015 at 4:16 AM Post #3,068 of 5,553
jozurr said:
I want to drive the HE-560 and potentially the HE-1000 in the future. The thing with real tube amps is, from some that I've heard, the distortion they seem to add isn't nice. It seems to take away some clarity and detail. I'd be open to suggestions on tube amps as well if they don't sacrifice on clarity and detail and giving me an added lower end bump.
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Tube amps do have a questionable rep. But I think that this is as much to do with low quality designs as it is a tube trait.
I think that you have a few options: the Bottlehead s.e.x. and Woo WA6 SE are two that come to mind.
 
Aug 18, 2015 at 8:30 AM Post #3,069 of 5,553
^^^ agreed on two great choices. Many tube amps (and tubes) are not "tubey" as some may think. The BH S.E.X for sure isn't.
 
Aug 18, 2015 at 8:51 AM Post #3,070 of 5,553
giof71 said:
Well in reality the laptop is a recent i5.
I was calling 'old' the amplifier and speakers I have in the vacation house (they are really vintage), not the PC.
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Try running that latency checker  sometime. It showed me some interesting differences between what I thought should be relatively equivalent computers.
 
Aug 23, 2015 at 3:22 AM Post #3,072 of 5,553
Hey guys so i'm looking into doing the opamp upgrade, i'm still a bit confused tho. As i've read so far it seems the recommendation includes a combo of 2x AD797 and 2x AD823? which specific ones? Are these it? Or is it supposed to be BRZ?
 
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Analog-Devices/AD797ANZ/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv9yaQC4TiGCZp%252bzjCMT2SR57u%252bnPplTOQ%3d
 
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Analog-Devices/AD823ANZ/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvtNjJQt4UgLalm6EXZly%2fyoPJKwUvrNKE%3d
 
Also, is there a specific post that goes into the details of where /how to install them? (i.e. the 2x AD797 on the right side/front, and the 2x AD823 goes in the back? or is it the other way around?)
 
Aug 23, 2015 at 8:31 AM Post #3,073 of 5,553
Yeah, I think that it would be very helpful if someone were put together a sort of H10 op-amp tutorial. Something that we can easily refer to.
 
I've been doing my best to keep notes of the op-amp comments; I've copy and pasted many sentences (into a notepad doc), but now it doesn't make much sense to me.
 
It seems that the most recommended op-amps are the AD797brz. But, are there single and twin versions? Which slots are they for? Are they sided or directional?
 
The apparent faves for the other slots are the AD823. Again, single, twin? I don't know.
 
And of course, we're always interested to hear about people's experiences and comparisons. Has anyone found a better op-amp than the 797, or better partner for it? How do those (different price league) discrete modules compare?
 
And lastly, talking of price: did I dream that someone put a link to a webpage offering free (trial) op-amps?
 
Aug 23, 2015 at 8:39 AM Post #3,074 of 5,553
noodlz said:
Hey guys so i'm looking into doing the opamp upgrade, i'm still a bit confused tho. As i've read so far it seems the recommendation includes a combo of 2x AD797 and 2x AD823? which specific ones? Are these it? Or is it supposed to be BRZ?

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Analog-Devices/AD797ANZ/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv9yaQC4TiGCZp%252bzjCMT2SR57u%252bnPplTOQ%3d

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Analog-Devices/AD823ANZ/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvtNjJQt4UgLalm6EXZly%2fyoPJKwUvrNKE%3d

Also, is there a specific post that goes into the details of where /how to install them? (i.e. the 2x AD797 on the right side/front, and the 2x AD823 goes in the back? or is it the other way around?)
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You've got it right. The ANZ models are correct. Also correct with the placement. The 797's are single opamps that replace the opa134's and the 823's are dual opamps that replace the 5532's. Open her up and look closely. You will see the numbers on the chips. There is also a circle that marks pin 1 on each chip and a notch cut out of the end. Replace the chips with the same pin and notch orientation and you're done. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy.
 
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