[htr2d2]

  Forgive me if this has been covered already in this thread or another, to may posts to go through to check.  
 
Using a pen to plug the hole for the jack when sealing it worked rather well for me.  The pen fits pretty tight and I was able to add hot glue all around the jack and seal it up.  Once it was set, but not all the way cool, I just twisted the pen out, which came out easily.  Nice seal with no leakage into the jack.  
 
Note that the first few times you take the plug in and out the little pegs that stick out of the jack will cut at the glue/silicone as they turn.  

 
Nice! Thank you.

 

[silvrr]

Anyone have some of the silver stone acoustic foam or dynamat they are looking to get rid of?  Figured I would buy someones extra before I bought full sheets.  
 
Anyway here are my mods so far. 
 
I mass loaded the driver side of the baffle and sealed the cups which really brought up the bass in them.  The baffle ear side port is also sealed with a bit of electrical tape, not sure if this is going to stay so haven't permanently sealed it yet. The cup side vents are 3/4 sealed.
 

 
 
Then I tried the felt on the back of the driver.   Also tried the black dot to reflect some highs into the ear but it became very sibilant after other mods so its now gone. 

 
 
 
A bit of cotton in the cups, started out with quite a bit and it made the drivers super sibilant and the highs were to much for me.  Slowly lowered the amount and found filling the two side voids in the cups and leaving the middle bare found a happy medium between tightening up the bass and keeping the treble in control. 
Then I also picked up a set of lambskin pads from ZMF which greatly improved the isolation and comfort but also boosted the sub bass and a bit of the high end.  
This is about where I am now.  
 

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

  Anyone have some of the silver stone acoustic foam or dynamat they are looking to get rid of?  Figured I would buy someones extra before I bought full sheets.  
 
Anyway here are my mods so far. 
 
I mass loaded the driver side of the baffle and sealed the cups which really brought up the bass in them.  The baffle ear side port is also sealed with a bit of electrical tape, not sure if this is going to stay so haven't permanently sealed it yet. The cup side vents are 3/4 sealed.
 

 
 
Then I tried the felt on the back of the driver.   Also tried the black dot to reflect some highs into the ear but it became very sibilant after other mods so its now gone. 

 
 
 
A bit of cotton in the cups, started out with quite a bit and it made the drivers super sibilant and the highs were to much for me.  Slowly lowered the amount and found filling the two side voids in the cups and leaving the middle bare found a happy medium between tightening up the bass and keeping the treble in control. 
Then I also picked up a set of lambskin pads from ZMF which greatly improved the isolation and comfort but also boosted the sub bass and a bit of the high end.  
This is about where I am now.  
 

 
PM with your address and I'll send you whatever you need.
 
Best Regards,
 
Keith

 

[nick n]

Just when one thinks they are out...
my set here is one of the worst for high end sizzle I have heard out of 6 total. So it was one of those driver variations. Irritating really.
 
 
 
This is how it is now and I feel it is done.
 
 

1.  I removed two spots over the 6 hole grid squares as seen in the picture below.

as you can tell there is no memory foam hole over this part so it still keeps bass controlled unlike other mods that cut away that white backing fabric...as I understand that normally causes boominess and less controlled bass.
 

1. because this is a more treble happy driver stock, I went in a retuned the Micropore &  Arctic Cotton tuning squares.

 


 SO NOW :
the fuzzier Arctic Cotton side that sits directly on the driver has NO Micropore layers in any form,
the rears have been reduced to the thin 7mm by 36 mm side strips only.
 
of course this will all depend on your hearing preferences and what the driver you have performs like.
 
with this I get perfect highs right on the edges still but toned back enough from before so that I can tolerate things better. Before it tended to bother me badly.
Bass of course is much better.
There is an overall fullness to the sound without getting sloppy that I can tell.
 
I secured the round foam disks on with some of that Aileen's Fabric tape from Michael's Craft Store so that it stays put and does not shift at all when trying to replace the cups.
I just put some strips outside of the driver frame.
 
I essentially tuned back the highs by reducing the tuning squares' Micropore layer configurations  to preference.
As you can see I had to get extreme compared to what they were.
When I hear wayneworld's set again ( the bassier stock set )side by side I can compare.
He will likely want the bass tweak also.
Also I should contact Sfwalcer he needs to have his fixed up properly.
Up to him though I will wait till he shows up again here. I could send him a letter snailmail maybe....
 
The overall sound is retained but better off I find ( plus much better bass yes ). It's not a huge loss on the top end but just right.
 
No idea what I was thinking at the time of that first memfoam mod with those highs.
I guess it was the challenge of extracting as much as possible from the otherwise lame top end in these.
 
FIWI YMMV and all that.
 
I'll have to see how this translates to the other set I need to do up like this for a gift.

 

[walbum4262]

I'm in the process of modding my t50rp and have a quick question.

As seen in the picture below I have put some creatology felt over the bass ports do you guys open up a smal bit for bass vent ??

 

[Armillary]

Spoiler: A variety of pictures

 

The wooden finished first pair on the side as reference
 

An assembled headband cup sans-headband
 

Closeup on the cup
 

Detail on the current inner workings of the support arm
 

The prototype cup sans-cover. Also in shot is the first version of the support arm.
 

Reverse of the prototype cup with the stock Fostex pad fitted.
 

With the pad removed, four ordinary wood screws are used here but the final may utilize a thread insert to avoid stripping out the wood threads.
 

Comparison between the original prototype size (100mm dia) and the new size (90mm dia). The size was mostly so the baffle would support brainwavz pads right off the bat with no stretching. 
 

 
 One last closeup of my completed set, showing a bit of detail were I had done a rough fix on my torn pad via back stitch. 

I have another gallery of headphone stuffs to submit, I've been working on 3d printing prototype cups which will ultimately be wood turned. The final product will feature some 3d printed parts, such as the supporting arms and maybe the faceplate for the front of the cup. 

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

I'm in the process of modding my t50rp and have a quick question.

As seen in the picture below I have put some creatology felt over the bass ports do you guys open up a smal bit for bass vent ??

http://i.imgur.com/WX5jCiV.jpg

Depends on how you like it, and what level of volume you listen to. Open vents, more bass. Closed vents, less and more controlled


For me I listen to music quietly. The quieter the volume, the less bass is perseaved; Mine are wide open.

From what I've seen, most use electrical tape, and cut holes in it to tune it to their liking.


Since yours are felt and not tape, (felt let's some air through, vs airtight tape) you might not have to make any holes. But again, it's how you want it to sound.

 

[walbum4262]

Depends on how you like it, and what level of volume you listen to. Open vents, more bass. Closed vents, less and more controlled


For me I listen to music quietly. The quieter the volume, the less bass is perseaved; Mine are wide open.

From what I've seen, most use electrical tape, and cut holes in it to tune it to their liking.


Since yours are felt and not tape, (felt let's some air through, vs airtight tape) you might not have to make any holes. But again, it's how you want it to sound.

Thanks for answering my question it's self adhesive felt so it might not let anything pass because of the glue.

I listen to fairly loud levels it will be interesting to test it out
I'll be posting a work log in the near future with lots of pictures of my build

 

[nick n]

Not sure if anyone is still messing with gel earpads, only a few were anyhow. Saw these and I cannot recall what the pad measurement needs to be.
=these are 104mm by 77mm
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gel-Ear-Seals-Pads-promotional-price-UK-NEW-height-22mm-/181874230210?hash=item2a588c83c2

 

[nick n]

One other thing , I might try out the Sorbothane instead of Dynamat I have another here that needs a modding.
Seems really promising, and reasonably cheap. I did grab a square of the 1/10 inch thick 30D version with the 3M sticky backing.
Easy to work with and apply, rather neat stuff.
 
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/744839/damping-mechanical-resonance-distortion-of-stax-and-other-phones-with-sorbothane
 
I get the impression rather than using strips that smaller non-circular shapes are best, like small rectangles or squares.
Of course one would not likely want to top it with anything like adhesive felts. I would/will focus only on it's application on the baffle inside/outside it's surface seem like it would reflect, unlike foams.

 

[htr2d2]

I'm in the process of modding my t50rp and have a quick question.

As seen in the picture below I have put some creatology felt over the bass ports do you guys open up a smal bit for bass vent ??
 

 
 

Depends on how you like it, and what level of volume you listen to. Open vents, more bass. Closed vents, less and more controlled


For me I listen to music quietly. The quieter the volume, the less bass is perseaved; Mine are wide open.

From what I've seen, most use electrical tape, and cut holes in it to tune it to their liking.


Since yours are felt and not tape, (felt let's some air through, vs airtight tape) you might not have to make any holes. But again, it's how you want it to sound.

 
I am a bit slow responding, but to get your preferred sound signature, I would advise removnig the felt over the vent and using electrical tape on the outside during testing. That way you can make modification to the tape without having to disassembling. Once you have determined the degree of openness you want, you can disassemble and install inside the cups. It is not a perfect method of tuning but it will save you time.
 
As I recalled, I ended up covering without a port. Personal preference.

 

[silvrr]

I am a bit slow responding, but to get your preferred sound signature, I would advise removnig the felt over the vent and using electrical tape on the outside during testing. That way you can make modification to the tape without having to disassembling. Once you have determined the degree of openness you want, you can disassemble and install inside the cups. It is not a perfect method of tuning but it will save you time.

As I recalled, I ended up covering without a port. Personal preference.

I found this method to work we'll. Leaving a little tab of the tape sticking up allows you to grab it and pull it off while listening. Really helps you hear what the different porting options do.

 

[htr2d2]

I found this method to work we'll. Leaving a little tab of the tape sticking up allows you to grab it and pull it off while listening. Really helps you hear what the different porting options do.

Good idea. Beats having to take the headphone off and on between adjustments.

 

[nick n]

Still tweaking here.
I would not be able to sleep if I did not try this out. other stuff I have been trying it on has quite the results, even with the Dynamat there at the same time.
So... up late and did a fast 15 minute tweak.
And it is non invasive and reversible should someone want to, but doubt they'd reverse it.
 
 
 
See link to relevant Sorbothane thread a post or two before this one.
And this is done to the mod pictured in post # 1909 above.
 
I had no options of adding this inside the cups on the baffle rears at all since it is loaded with Newplast topped with the Creatology thin adhesive felt.
The area seen in the photo is very close to the driver anyhow which is ideal here.
Note that the baffle face already had Dynamat Extreme top covered with the thin Creatology adhesive felt.
After slicing away the areas for the 1cm Sorbothane pieces I used stickier tape pressed on and off to remove most of the gross gooey felt adhesive that was left on the now exposed Dynamat surface.
Important that the 3M adhesive of the Sorb adheres to as much of a clean surface as possible.
 
Note i kept them close but not touching each other so they act independently.
 
 
 
I find very little issue with the height as it is only 1/10 inch thick so nothing significant.
For those that do bother to try this out  and do not have the Dynamat overlay and a clean baffle surface to use it will be even less height obviously
========= I hardly used much of a 6 x 6 inch sheet and that was relatively cheap ==========
 
 
 
***One final thought that may or may not be irrelevant=
 
I could have removed the Dynamat itself in those areas and directly bonded to the baffle. Hmmmm.

Likely not as easy to get a clean surface though.
What my intuition is telling me here :
Since the vibes are being nailed a bit already by the Dynamat, and for all intents and purposes we can consider that Dynamat an integral bonded part of that baffle now, maybe it is best to use the Sorbo as the icing on the cake and the final vibe control as seen above.
This is likely the case I don't want to overthink it right now.
Once again it seems so far on stuff to add something Dynamat and the Newplast do not. I can hear something to this effect now but need more time on this.
 
 
Anyone with thoughts on this?
 I will be re-tweaking a less treblish version of this mod soon , including the rear driver square bass bump tweak of removing the backing material over 2 grids ( exact same tuning on the insides but a less treble level driver variant ) so it might show better in that one.
Or at least the owner can maybe report back with some minor impressions.
I bet he is stunned.
Maybe he will prove me wrong.
 
 
 
Testing for a bit here but for certain it has improved.
 
yes it has.

 

[DangerClose]

Thanks to everyone sharing their mods, and of course to Bluemonkeyflyer for his very thorough testing and impressive charts that got me to finally get a T50rp.
 
Stock, it sounded terrible, almost underwater.  Possibly due to an excessive air gap around the plug jack that is now sealed up.  
 
It's coming around now starting with easy mods, but, question: The frequency charts may show good results, but doesn't stuffing so much dampening into the cups make them sound congested, lifeless, and 2-dimensional?  I teased four cotton balls into each cup, plus 840 pads with the felt cut out, and the resonance is gone, but the life is sucked out of them.  
 
I've done similar when modding other headphones, so that's not a surprise, but what is a surprise is that people are stuffing far more into their cups than that and saying it sounds great.  They're plugged into a 930mv@32 amp, so power shouldn't be the problem.
 
Yes, every headphone is a little different, but people are stuffing six cotton balls + paxmate or similar + baffle clay... that's a lot of stuff.