Fostex T50RP Incremental Mods and Measurements
Jul 16, 2015 at 6:44 PM Post #1,891 of 2,832
  1. Thanks ZGLISZCZ
  2.  
I'll think about that and maybe try some of those things. But for now I'm just gonna enjoy them I think. As I said it already sounds better than anything I've tried before. Compare to pre-mods it's night and day. I'm not against spending the time but fore now I have another involving projet which is restoring  an old sony mixer from the eighties that need lots of love.
 
As for the stretch, I don't see how it could degrade the sound cause it's not the pads themselves that are stretched, but the flaps to hold them in place. If anything them being so thight can only help with sealing together both parts of the baffle. I can't post picture probably cause I'm a new member, but just 3 post up theres a pair with Brainwavs, I have the same fit. Anyways I'm not to concerned but I'd still like to try the shure pads. Not that I think that they'll sound better, but they don't look as warm, not as thick, maybe also visually less loud, more my style.
 
Jul 20, 2015 at 4:11 AM Post #1,892 of 2,832
Hi Guys (are there any girls?) small Update with wave guides. I made first casting and it suxx:) it was cure for 5 days and is still kind of flexible and has bubbles on corners. I will need to make some tunnels (in silicon mould) for air and add more hardener to resin. But beside that details are there. I'm in Dublin Ireland and I'm casting on my balcony because of smell and when it rain... And it does a lot... Then I cannot do that. Yesterday I've been in hospital. I cut my hand really badly working on my headphones (1,5cm deep, long cut) So expect small delay but I remember about you guys:) be careful with knives!also I think I became vegetarian again after that...
 
Jul 21, 2015 at 2:52 AM Post #1,894 of 2,832
1.5 cm cut on your hand??? That must have been down to the bone...
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Aug 4, 2015 at 12:45 AM Post #1,896 of 2,832
Hello,
 
I just finished doing some heavy mods on the T50RP's, including turning wood cups and laser cutting a custom baffle. If you guys are interested I can post a bunch of pictures from the process and the solidworks files related to the baffle (I wish I could edit the file slightly now that I've assembled everything, the square cut out for the driver to fit through certainly needs to be about a millimeter wider to allow the driver to fit into the baffle without sanding). I originally tried to 3d print a large portion of the cups, creating a collar shape which would fit different types of backs but the prints came out badly and I ended up changing the design anyway. This was might first major project of the sort and there are a few things that I'd certainly do differently if I was to do it again. 
 

 

 
 
Aug 4, 2015 at 10:40 AM Post #1,899 of 2,832
  Hi Almillary, looks nice. I always like to see new cups. Are the stripes painted? Images are bit blurry. MuZo2 I think those holes are bass vents

Yup, the stripes are painted on. I used a bit of art tape to make sure the lines came out reasonably clean. Sorry about the pictures, my phone tends to be a bit hit-or-miss in general, below are a few closeups of the sides of the headphones. Also you're spot on concerning the holes on the side, the practice was recommended to improve the bass performance of the phones. 
 

 
 
Aug 4, 2015 at 11:27 AM Post #1,900 of 2,832
  Yup, the stripes are painted on. I used a bit of art tape to make sure the lines came out reasonably clean. Sorry about the pictures, my phone tends to be a bit hit-or-miss in general, below are a few closeups of the sides of the headphones. Also you're spot on concerning the holes on the side, the practice was recommended to improve the bass performance of the phones. 
 

 

If you have chisel and steady hand. you might sharp it really nicelly and try to cut those stripes. It will look much nicer. But chisel needs to be really sharp to make clean stroke on edges. Use U or V shaped. If you trust your hand:) I mean that kind of chisel (first 3 in image) http://www.bookstars.gr/Resources/Books/Images/6932599396230.jpg  not the flat one. Nice  wooden badboys btw:)
 
Aug 4, 2015 at 11:45 AM Post #1,901 of 2,832
  If you have chisel and steady hand. you might sharp it really nicelly and try to cut those stripes. It will look much nicer. But chisel needs to be really sharp to make clean stroke on edges. Use U or V shaped. If you trust your hand:) I mean that kind of chisel (first 3 in image) http://www.bookstars.gr/Resources/Books/Images/6932599396230.jpg  not the flat one. Nice  wooden badboys btw:)

I'll keep that in mind, but I'm not sure I'd trust myself not to mess that up somehow heh. I'd also like to avoid opening then earcups up as much as possible, I had issues soldering the mini xlr ports and I'd not like to have to repeat the experience. I was really excited to be able to turn wooden cups, I might keep going with that and see if people around here want some basic cups made, I'm no pro but it might be better than nothing for those who don't want to invest in a lathe. 
 
Aug 4, 2015 at 8:47 PM Post #1,902 of 2,832
Aug 5, 2015 at 2:51 AM Post #1,903 of 2,832
Hi Keith. Actually its not bad:) I got stitches removed and it does not look that bad. I will need to wait with gym:) but beside that its quite well. I've get back to making headphones but making earpads takes too much time to make it worth selling... Probably I will end up doing max 10 pairs. Also I still have some issues with casting resin. I'm sure I will figure this out
 
Aug 29, 2015 at 3:33 PM Post #1,904 of 2,832
Forgive me if this has been covered already in this thread or another, to may posts to go through to check.  
 
Using a pen to plug the hole for the jack when sealing it worked rather well for me.  The pen fits pretty tight and I was able to add hot glue all around the jack and seal it up.  Once it was set, but not all the way cool, I just twisted the pen out, which came out easily.  Nice seal with no leakage into the jack.  
 

 
Note that the first few times you take the plug in and out the little pegs that stick out of the jack will cut at the glue/silicone as they turn.  
 

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