Fostex T50RP Incremental Mods and Measurements
Mar 21, 2015 at 3:01 AM Post #1,831 of 2,845
  Abso-effing-lutely.

LOL 
biggrin.gif
, will go ahead with the purchase....
 
Mar 21, 2015 at 11:50 PM Post #1,833 of 2,845


Got a surprise today, time to make New baffles, I didn't like the last pair I made and am making a new temp set to see if I even like these open. Man I forgot how ugly the he400 blue is. It looks so Damn cheap! My he4 looks So much better. Anyhow, will hopefully report back with sonic impressions in the next 2 weeks.

Edit; if they sound right open, I'm going to need Casper!! I can't stand this blue!
 
Mar 22, 2015 at 1:25 AM Post #1,834 of 2,845
I've asked before, but I'll ask again before I throw something together here. Anyone have any ideas for baffle design for this setup? I think I'm going to go ahead and use mdf so it's easier to shape, and maybe be best to rid it of vibration. I also need to figure out a way yo attach the pads, easiest way would be tape them to the cups for now. I just have this aching feeling the baffle design will be key here in making this particular setup work. Hell I'd be willing to do some driver mods as well if someone has solid suggestions.
 
Mar 22, 2015 at 2:37 AM Post #1,835 of 2,845
What about a thicker Plexi for the baffles somehow?  Depending on pad sizes you could have the edges stick out a bit extra so the flaps can grab tightly to that. Or bond a ring of it so it makes a seam for the pad flaps?  No tape needed if you get that down. Assuming it looked fine afterwards.
Just thinking out loud.
 
Been a night of revisiting and bosting bass on the T50 mods here. Got one in for a tweak too so my remaining set is also getting depeaked.
 
 You guys need to try out a solid BMD ( blue monkey dot ) instead of the sliced one. Brings out the bass some more.
Does not seem to affect aything else, at least in this mod.
 
Mar 22, 2015 at 8:48 AM Post #1,836 of 2,845
I've asked before, but I'll ask again before I throw something together here. Anyone have any ideas for baffle design for this setup? I think I'm going to go ahead and use mdf so it's easier to shape, and maybe be best to rid it of vibration. I also need to figure out a way yo attach the pads, easiest way would be tape them to the cups for now. I just have this aching feeling the baffle design will be key here in making this particular setup work. Hell I'd be willing to do some driver mods as well if someone has solid suggestions.


I agree with Nick. I use MDF, but I make the baffle a hair wider than my cup. This creates a slight lip that gives the pad something to grip. Just over 4 inches seems to be the magic diameter...works for Shure pads and for the Alpha pads. Also works for the HM5 pads (with a little swearing and cursing).
 
Mar 22, 2015 at 8:52 AM Post #1,837 of 2,845
I've asked before, but I'll ask again before I throw something together here. Anyone have any ideas for baffle design for this setup? I think I'm going to go ahead and use mdf so it's easier to shape, and maybe be best to rid it of vibration. I also need to figure out a way yo attach the pads, easiest way would be tape them to the cups for now. I just have this aching feeling the baffle design will be key here in making this particular setup work. Hell I'd be willing to do some driver mods as well if someone has solid suggestions.

 
I used 22 gauge and 28 gauge steel sheet metal from Home Depot for baffles in 2 transplant projects. I like the results.
 
Links in my profile:
 
Amfiton TDS-15 transplant into Takstar HI 2050 donor...Post 21777
Yamaha YHD-1 transplant into  Fostex T10 donor...Post 22600
 
Mar 22, 2015 at 4:50 PM Post #1,838 of 2,845
Interesting tid bit...

When to the source tried ALL the headphones heh.... they were looking at me funny, but they know me.

Tried some momentums. Strangely good. Anyways I thought they were rather bass heavy, I looked up some graphs, yes they are bass heavy, but really not that much in the least. The other cans I tried sounded similar. (Other then actual bass heavy cans) so turns out my t50rps are bass light...... hmm it seems to be the normal 4mm thick Sliverstone foam. My cup vents are open too. Too much foam?

 
Mar 22, 2015 at 5:56 PM Post #1,839 of 2,845
Interesting tid bit...

When to the source tried ALL the headphones heh.... they were looking at me funny, but they know me.

Tried some momentums. Strangely good. Anyways I thought they were rather bass heavy, I looked up some graphs, yes they are bass heavy, but really not that much in the least. The other cans I tried sounded similar. (Other then actual bass heavy cans) so turns out my t50rps are bass light...... hmm it seems to be the normal 4mm thick Sliverstone foam. My cup vents are open too. Too much foam?



I would try closing the vents a little. Maybe half way.
 
Mar 22, 2015 at 6:09 PM Post #1,840 of 2,845
I would try closing the vents a little. Maybe half way.

 
Closing the bottom vent will reduce bass quantity and improve bass quality.
 
Edit: Partially closing the bottom vents...there needs to be at least a little bit of venting or the bass gets shut down.
 
Mar 22, 2015 at 6:36 PM Post #1,842 of 2,845
 
I would try closing the vents a little. Maybe half way.


To increase bass?

I think that much foam would kill the bass, since the only thing it is doing it reducing the volume of the cups since it's not a porous material the bass doesn't travel through it.
You're probably better off starting with something like cotton balls if bass quantity is the goal. 
Combine that WITH the suggested vent mod and you're on your way to getting the 'best' of both quantity and quality.
 
Mar 22, 2015 at 6:59 PM Post #1,843 of 2,845
I think that much foam would kill the bass, since the only thing it is doing it reducing the volume of the cups since it's not a porous material the bass doesn't travel through it.
You're probably better off starting with something like cotton balls if bass quantity is the goal. 
Combine that WITH the suggested vent mod and you're on your way to getting the 'best' of both quantity and quality.


Well, I do have rolled cotton in there, I also cut the holes a bit bigger on the stiff felt on the back of the driver. I'll play around, I like how they sound now. Just that extra touch more low end body would be nice. I almost have everything ready to do a total overhaul atm anyways. Just need the wire for a cable, and I forgot a 1/4" jack heh...


now that I've had these for along time, it's become a pure obsession... I can see how steep the slippery slope of being an audio-pile can be xD
 
Mar 22, 2015 at 9:08 PM Post #1,844 of 2,845
A fast and removable bass bump tweak is covering the center driver grid on the earside.   If you don't see a difference then take it off.
 
I would think reducing the size of the cup cavity will bring that up to begin with. OR at least tighten it up a bit more.
 
 Directly dealing with the space the driver sees on the rearside might help also= what I mean by that is replicate what the Technics did in their 810 ortho series of smaller drivers by making it so there is a small chamber inside the cups that the driver encounters right away, with the rear inwards facing opening being damped with various methods.
=Essentially making the normal cup insides become the secondary chamber, the direct mini-chamber attached to the driver rears being the main damped one.
Driver encounters a smaler space and shoudl get more immediate results with dampings than messing with a full cup and all the variables and extra space to deal with for tightening up sound etc.
Only thing is you are limited with space before that darned cup hanger post gets in the way, in a stock enclosure only mind you.
 
I leave only one cup vent slot open otherwise I found it too loose and distant sounding but this has a direct heavier damping of a hole-punched memory foam circle and micropored fuzzy fabric layer to bring  ( reflect and filter )out the otherwise foam-absorbed details.
 I now have them tweaked again and toned back updated damping pads so the bass is big.
 
Just some ideas out loud again, there's so many things possible to try out.
 

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