DIY Cable Gallery!!
May 4, 2010 at 9:08 AM Post #5,702 of 16,312
Quote:

Originally Posted by racer_x124 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Big fan of the wire colors heishiro!


those are the only decent cable i have
biggrin.gif
 
May 5, 2010 at 2:26 AM Post #5,705 of 16,312
Quote:

Originally Posted by WalkGood /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Great job for your first set, nice.


thank you sir! i hope i can find better rca this weekend still dont have
rca to rca connection, and i hope i can get better cables
redface.gif
 
May 8, 2010 at 2:35 AM Post #5,706 of 16,312
Here’s some pics of my fuel hose umbilicals...
 
fuel hose

 
parts

 
Belden silver coated copper 18AWG wire

 
twisting

 
EMI shielding with good old al-foil

 
sleeving etc

 
and done

 
May 9, 2010 at 10:21 AM Post #5,708 of 16,312
John, powercons FTW!! just bought a few more of those. not the superlarge ones, but some smaller ones I will use for power/sense . also mate, I have craploads of pure copper foil. could spare you some more than likely, depends on length you require. got enopugh spare for a short umbilical if you are in need of a nice one for box to box
 
hey I thought I would post a link here to the most comprehensive list of standard ways of interconnecting equipment to avoid or nullify ground loops i've seen. I think it would be a really great idea if it were included as a link on the front page of this thread or as a sticky. I came accross it while cruising a few ;links from AMB's site and its superb!! it quite literally answers any question you have about connecting one type of equipment to another, which terminal is which and proper grounding. a fantastic resource for noobs and old hands alike
 
check it out
 
May 9, 2010 at 10:29 AM Post #5,709 of 16,312


Quote:
I think it would be a really great idea if it were included as a link on the front page of this thread or as a sticky. 


+1
 
Great link 
beerchug.gif

 
May 9, 2010 at 11:10 AM Post #5,710 of 16,312
yep, anyone checking it out; make sure to scroll down to the table of all the different connectors. the beginning blurb is great too, but I have seen similar sites before with as good info, but I havent seen a table like that before. great to print out as a quick reference in the workshop
 
May 9, 2010 at 6:48 PM Post #5,712 of 16,312
Jeremy, I like the powercons too, I only wish they came in a 6 pole version... what’s the difference between foil vs copper for EMI/RF shielding? Rane rules, definitely sticky worthy.
 
May 11, 2010 at 7:31 AM Post #5,713 of 16,312
Finally put some decent wire into my Shure's. Had em for almost a year and i bought them cheap with a broken cable. The drivers are great, the original shure cable ... not so great.
 
Anyway, for anyone that didn't see my thread, i ordered some 26, 28 and 30 awg stranded silver from navships. I also ordered some techflex from furryletters and two connectors. Those came from Null - Audio. Last time for me because it took them 3+ weeks to get it to me and the communication is sub-par. Anyway, the connectors i ordered are the slim Pailiccs and a ViaBlue. I used the ViaBlue for my Shures. I still have a pair of SkullCandy FMJ lying around (somewhere) that needs a recable too.
 
Anyway, PICS !
 
The ViaBlue connector.

 
 
Overview on messy desktop

 
Macroshot of the IEM's themselves. The housings need some love. If the cables hold up i will apply some filler and paint. And tips of course :wink:

 
As you can see the cable is quite short, that's because i intend to use it with the Shure PTH. Which brings me to why i used TechFlex anyway :wink: The PTH has a clamp that basically eliminates any movement of the mic and anything else attached to it. Microphonics are a non-issue and i like the look :) I used the 30 AWG silver stranded cable btw. Y split is rather simple, 2 pieces of heatshrink for each cable and one big piece to keep em together.
 
They sound a hell of a lot better than with the stock cable too btw :p
 
May 11, 2010 at 9:09 AM Post #5,714 of 16,312

 
Quote:
Hi, I'm a new member looking for some suggestions. Joining this site has inspired me to fix some old headphones (and purposely purchase a broken pair for the purpose of fixing). I have no problem soldering wires, but I was wondering what you would suggest for covering the solder points. For a couple pairs of headphones I simply borrowed the mini plug from a throwaway pair of headphones as a replacement for the broken miniplug on some ink'd and Altec headphones. The issue being that I used heat shrink to cover the solder points which leaves an ugly point in the wiring. My question for you is what could/ should I do to cover or fix this blemish? I was thinking maybe I could put some regular wire covering under the heat shrink which would hide the soldered wire... but would still leave an asymmetric point in the wiring.

 
Why not jus buy a Neutrik 3.5mm plug or if you are using an old plug, just connect direct to the post and heat shrink over that, thus the cable to phones would remain intact. If it’s on the phone side you’ll have to open the phones up and make sure you use the existing stress relief or make one from heat shrink. Good Luck :)


 
 
May 11, 2010 at 9:28 AM Post #5,715 of 16,312
the funny thing is, Johns 'silver wire' shop does not sell any silver wire. he sells exclusively silver plated copper wire and the wire itself is the most microphonic stuff i've ever used in my life, I cannot imagine how bad it would be if you added techflex. lucky you are using the pTH, which the cable will also fail on after a little while. it uses the same wire and insulation as the SE530, with bad strain relief at the plug. I recommend you put some extra heatshrink around the connector to help that out, or simply use pre-emptive action and replace the mini while your at it.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top