Crack;Bottlehead OTL
Oct 13, 2014 at 12:51 AM Post #6,076 of 12,335
^ everything he said. I also have a modified O2 with agdr's booster board which sounds great with Grados and other low impedance cans.  With the HD650's i always found they sounded flat and lifeless, and dare i say it "veiled".  A crack really does transform them.
 
Oct 13, 2014 at 1:23 PM Post #6,077 of 12,335
The crack with speedball will be a big change and a major improvement in listening enjoyment with hd650s if your ears are anything like mine. I actually like my agdr boosted o2 quite well with alpha dogs and other fostex t50rp variants. It is also pretty good with dt880s since they have kind of a diffuse presentation and the o2 helps to focus them and give them a nice impactful, albeit slightly lean sound. But hd650s are already very coherent sounding headphones as far as instrument separation, and the o2 just makes them sound compressed and rather unremarkable in comparison. Timbre also takes a big hit.

Plug into a crack and you will immediately understand the hype. It is just an excellent pairing that brings out the 650s soundstage, yields rich full lifelike timbre, and draws you right into the music. It is not a slow tubey sound like the woo otls. It is a punchy, dynamic involving match which will also hit harder and provide more substance in the bass than your o2, although at the cost of some bass tightness (which you will not miss in the least on balance). Building the kit and getting to participate in the extended bottlehead community is also extremely rewarding and is a big part of what has kept me interested and active on headfi for all these years. Plus, as Doc always says, it really does sound better when you build it yourself.

Thanks for that, very helpful as I was wondering the same question myself.
 
I know it's better to build the crack first but would you order with speedball and add it in pretty quickly, or live with the straight crack for a while? thanks.
 
Oct 13, 2014 at 1:36 PM Post #6,078 of 12,335
I think there is a discount if you order a Crack and Speedball at the same time, you will also save on a second lot of shipping at a later date. There are more than a few builders about who prefer Crack without speedball and the Crack certainly sounds good without it. I ordered both at the same time and only lasted a week before I could not resist the urge to get the soldering iron out again and  fit it.
 
Oct 13, 2014 at 1:57 PM Post #6,079 of 12,335
Arrgh, IOS 8 just blew away my post. In a nutshell, 470 ohms is fine, bigger than you need for 120 ohm cans. I suspect that the materials and construction are influencing the sound quite a bit, perhaps more than the big cap value.
 
Oct 13, 2014 at 2:33 PM Post #6,080 of 12,335
Thanks for that, very helpful as I was wondering the same question myself.

I know it's better to build the crack first but would you order with speedball and add it in pretty quickly, or live with the straight crack for a while? thanks.


My pleasure! Re the speedball, I'll echo what Jamie said.

The stock build already sounds very good with high ohm phones. Plus, you want to be able to confirm the basic build is up and running and measures correctly before introducing more complexity into the circuit.

The one caveat is that there are a couple of nylon standoffs (in the speedball kit) that screw on to the existing a-socket screws - on which one of your speedball boards will ultimately sit. If you have a chance to screw those on when doing the initial chassis hardware for the stock kit, and before doing any of the hookup wire on the a-socket, it can help avoid potential issues down the road (if the a-socket wires end up being in the way of the standoffs). I had this happen and was a little too rough in pushing those wires aside when adding my speedball standoffs and consequently damaged one of the a-socket LEDs. So if you have any concern that you may be a clumsy oaf like me, this can help avoid the issue. Many others have certainly managed to add their speedball standoffs without any trouble.
 
Oct 13, 2014 at 3:32 PM Post #6,081 of 12,335
The "materials and construction", yeah, that makes a lot of sense, Doc. I can tell my 470uF Roe output caps are definitely quality components. Thanks so much for the reassurance in terms of matching. I can't believe the sound I'm getting with my amp now -- with the newly installed speedball as well. Simply PURE, transportive, and all with vast power reserves.
 
Oct 13, 2014 at 11:10 PM Post #6,083 of 12,335
Well, just when you thought all was right with the world, this happened: http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php?topic=6898.0
 
World turned upside down.....
 
Oct 13, 2014 at 11:36 PM Post #6,084 of 12,335
  Well, just when you thought all was right with the world, this happened: http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php?topic=6898.0
 
World turned upside down.....

 
That one, the Yggdrasil, and the DDDAC 1794 have sorta been on my radar for the last little while.
 
Oct 13, 2014 at 11:37 PM Post #6,085 of 12,335
Decisions, decisions......lol.
 
Oct 13, 2014 at 11:37 PM Post #6,086 of 12,335
Thanks for the helpful comments guys. I'm definitely looking into purchasing BHC+SB very soon.
 
Another question I have is how to hook it up to my computer cheaply? I heard that I'll need a USB DAC but I don't really want to spend that much on one. Also, by adding a DAC would it change the sound signature by a lot and do I really need a good one to get the most out of my BHC+SB w/ my HD650s? Also, is there a way of hooking up the BCH+SB directly to my PC w/o a USB DAC? 
 
Recommendations are much appreciated!
 
Oct 14, 2014 at 12:08 PM Post #6,088 of 12,335
  Thanks for the helpful comments guys. I'm definitely looking into purchasing BHC+SB very soon.
 
Another question I have is how to hook it up to my computer cheaply? I heard that I'll need a USB DAC but I don't really want to spend that much on one. Also, by adding a DAC would it change the sound signature by a lot and do I really need a good one to get the most out of my BHC+SB w/ my HD650s? Also, is there a way of hooking up the BCH+SB directly to my PC w/o a USB DAC? 
 
Recommendations are much appreciated!

 
You'll need a DAC AND a 3.5mm to stereo phono RCA cable to get the most of your BHC.
 
Alternatively you can just get that cable, hook it from your onboard sound onto your BHC and see if you like it. Computers have "clean" power in terms of getting power to electronics, but are riddled with tones of oscillation which can be easily picked up by ears alone. Speakers are powered by electricity, you can imagine how it'll sound if they are powered directly via the computer.
 
Now apply this to an amp, which by default should just amplify whatever it's been fed. If it is full of noise, then you'll get louder noise in return.
 
Most USB DACs are powered by USB, but also include their own power regulator that removes a significant amount of noise, hence why a good amount of us like external DACs over PC sound cards.
 
A DAC I began and could recommend for the budget minded is the ELE D01, which performed admirably. That should provide a low enough noise level to prevent things sounding like it's constantly raining, without breaking the bank.
 

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