CD3000 gone woody... pics
Apr 25, 2004 at 2:36 AM Post #31 of 316
Wow that's beautiful job. Amazing.
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Apr 25, 2004 at 2:50 AM Post #32 of 316
Niiiiice Larry!

Yeah, I'm not a big of your choice of wood there, but the execution cannot be denied.

Do you have access to a mill or a lathe? Perhaps the next one can be more precisely machined.

I like it,though. Cheers to those with the cahones to mod their gear.

-Ed
 
Apr 25, 2004 at 3:14 AM Post #33 of 316
ABsolutely stunning work Larry! My hat's off to you and your fabulous skills at replaceing the wiring and ear cups. They resemble the R10s now, and if it adds a little sweetness to the sound seems like an awesome, albeit labor intensive, mod.

Excellent job.
 
Apr 25, 2004 at 3:19 AM Post #34 of 316
I think you are :-

* Very brave
* Very Stupid
* Very Smart
* Very skilled with your tools (no pun intended)
* Very "tasteful" (again no pun intended)
* Very sure about what you want
* Very handy with wood (pun intended
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If it does sound better than stock (which is possible because wood, in my experience, adds a natural coloration to the sound which is just so pleasing to listen to - RS-1, Woodies, R-10 ).

Good work...more pics needed
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You should have made pictures of the entire process...just to encourage people into doing this with cheaper cans first before jumping to higher ground.
But a good business opportunity if you should decide to do this large scale.

This may well bing the CD3K closer to the R-10 in terms of sound
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Apr 25, 2004 at 4:01 AM Post #35 of 316
I bow down to you, Mr. Xanadu. You're a man after my own heart. It's great to see someone with verve and cojones.

Did you measure the inner volume with water? Do the woodies hold the same amount of water? I would have tried a roll of water filter to replace the stock foam ring. Or at least cotton batting around a woman's hair roller or wire mesh. I'm also surprised that you didn't Cherry Wood stain the outsides, and then added 6 coats of poly urethane.
 
Apr 25, 2004 at 4:04 AM Post #36 of 316
First, thanks for all the nice comments. I mow the lawn (big) and come back to 3 pages to read!

Funny thing about this wood, I didn't realize it was two tone until everything was cut out. Once I started grinding, the two tone came out and I decided to just go with it, rather than start over. I've used the red on other projects and was real happy with the way it looks, the blonde was a surprise. I wasn't real thrilled... but too far along to start over, not knowing how they would even sound, etc. I may even change them out, now that I know how to make them. If only I had a mill
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which I don't, this was a hand job. If I had a mill, I would surely make many, for other cans too.

However, unless I sell my own pair(s), they just take too long to make for resale. I may offer the cable upgrade at some point through my website, but first need to finalize a non microphonic product for the sleeving. If I can find a place to mill wood cups, I'll do it.

I thought about some pics of the building of the wood cups, maybe next time. Basically I made a template of the plastic cups by tracing them onto the wood, two for each cup. One piece was cirlce cut slightly smaller than the outside edge and the center discarded. The other piece was ground to replicate the plastic cup depth, at the same angle and then glued to the "0" as to replicate the inside of the cup. I staggered them to create the opposite color ring. Course I would have used a solid piece if I had a mill. Next came alot of grinding and sanding and clear coat after verifying fit. Two indentations had to me made in the under side to accept the half flanged screw housing. I've attached them for now with "tacky tape", which is like a puddy that doesn't harden, easy to remove yet a nice bond and seal.

Now, should I wood up my K-1000's or 225's, heheh... Larry
 
Apr 25, 2004 at 4:10 AM Post #37 of 316
Quote:

Originally Posted by wallijonn
I bow down to you, Mr. Xanadu. You're a man after my own heart. It's great to see someone with verve and cojones.

Did you measure the inner volume with water? Do the woodies hold the same amount of water? I would have tried a roll of water filter to replace the stock foam ring. Or at least cotton batting around a woman's hair roller or wire mesh. I'm also surprised that you didn't Cherry Wood stain the outsides, and then added 6 coats of poly urethane.



I should have, still could, measure the volume with sand, water and wood spells trouble. I liked the sound without damping, so stuck with it. I did consider holing out the back somewhat and doing a mesh under but liked the sound too much to go that route. I actually did cherry stain at one point, then ground it off because it turned the blonde wood a black and greenish color. 6 coats urethane, you hit it on the head
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Apr 25, 2004 at 4:20 AM Post #38 of 316
Quote:

Originally Posted by Xanadu777
this was a hand job.

but first need to finalize a non microphonic product for the sleeving.



Hand Job. Heheheheheh!

Larry, have you tried the Nylon (NY) multifilament TechFlex? It is alot softer and cloth like than standard TechFLex.
It is more difficult to work with, though.

Edwood_K1000_Cable_Making_01.jpg


-Ed
 
Apr 25, 2004 at 4:20 AM Post #39 of 316
I never thought about wood damage. What was in the back of my mind was the wood in Italy which was submerged for scores of years and then used to make Stratavarius violins, or the wood which is submerged in the Great Lakes and is highly sought after. My choice of wood would definitely have been Mahogony or Hickory, although Teak would probably be easy enough to work with.

Will you grind your salt before pouring? I wonder if denatured alcohol would attack the inside wood?
 
Apr 25, 2004 at 4:25 AM Post #40 of 316
Quote:

Now, should I wood up my K-1000's or 225's, heheh...


Y'know, I've actually been thinking of making wooden earcups for my SR60s. It wouldn't be too tough to make either, although I'd want to become better with a lathe nonetheless. Mahogany is what I had in mind, ala the RS1, but I was considering other materials as well. I was also thinking of possibly seeing how the PS1 drivers are held in place, and maybe emulating that, if possible. All of this would be sort of silly though if I were to use SR60 drivers, so I might have to look upwards there if I were to actually attempt this. The whole thing is sort of silly too though I suppose, so whatever.

Closed Grados have also entered my mind, but I don't think I have nearly enough knowledge to design a closed chassis that has resonances either optimal enough, or few enough, if that's even possible. And never mind the tools I would need to pull it off successfully.
 
Apr 25, 2004 at 4:32 AM Post #42 of 316
Larry...

Just wondering....Does the wood make it more of a "closed can" than the OEM? If so, are there feedback and distortion issues that come into play, since you said you perfered them without dampening material.
Innovative ideas, such as yours, are what make us different than beings on other planets. Thomas Edison...Ben Franklin...Larry
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Apr 25, 2004 at 4:52 AM Post #44 of 316
I've been watching this thread thinking, he's going to tell us a it's a Photoshop job any moment now.

I never thought someone would actually do that to their headphones, but great job.
 

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