[Abdiel]

@blue2010: Hm, I'm no expert but I would check opamp you changed for front channels. Try with old one. Check all traces, maybe there are some shorts. Also check the polarity of capacitors. There is some mistake around opamp, I would bet on it. Good luck!

 

[blue2010]

Yes, i was already thinking in that direction. Ramachandra told me to check the OpAmps too.
Does anybody know which OpAmps are responsible for the front channels?

 

[DaddioJ]

hey guys new to the forums. but not a nooby to electronics. so i wanted to take on this project and bought all the parts. but for the life of me couldnt find 1 pcs 4700uF in 75v. or atleast 1 they wanted to sell bulk. so i purchased a Nichicon Muse FW in 35v which is still higher then original. is this ok? i also bought these for the preamp home this will do
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151519620282?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
 
final question. i use optical out 99.9 percent of the time. are the caps useless to change when using optical? and not analog?

 

[ramachandra]

What you chose is fine. There are few caps in the pod under the analog input what you do not need to touch, the rest is used by both connections.

 

[DaddioJ]

Thanks for the reply .

 

[DaddioJ]

  What you chose is fine. There are few caps in the pod under the analog input what you do not need to touch, the rest is used by both connections.

 
 
 one other question. i got the main caps 10000uF but they are snap ins so they will be much bigger. i was going to lay them down on the pcb and glue them in place. but i heard people using the GE silicon type 1 wont harm electrical components. GE claims its neutral cure  any experience with this? or any recommendations?

 

[blue2010]

  Yes, i was already thinking in that direction. Ramachandra told me to check the OpAmps too.
Does anybody know which OpAmps are responsible for the front channels?

We fixed the analog part. It sounds like as before again. But the problem in digital mode still remains. Front Left and Right channel is very quiet, about 30% of original volume. Will check the digital OpAmps soon, but still - is there anything else which could be resposible for this kind of problem?
 
Cheers

 

[jayjayuk]

@blue2010 have you bypassed thetr control pod so it is just audio signal going straight into the sub's plate amp? rule out a volume problem in the plate amp first by sending audio signal directly to the plate amp (solder wires to audio ground and left + right input on pre amp panel in sub) if the sound is ok and level to the others then problem is in control pod... if it is different then the problem (or a problem) lies in the sub plate amp... i had this issue on one of my front channels and it turned out to be an op amp... i changed it and that one worked but i used to much heat and another one broke.. eventually i got the opamp in ok and that sorted the problem (but then my own errors led me to other issues with main amps)
 
it will probably be one of the opamps... i bought some r4580i on ebay i got 50 of them for £15... so this was ok for me as i needed to know i was getting them in right and i needed some i could waste just in case i was doing it wrong... now they go in perfect every time... infact i dont know how i broke so many of them before lol
 
but use an earphone to see where the audio goes bad and look at those components... thats how i solved all my problems on my plate amp by tracing the audio with an earphone.
 
Good Luck.

 

[A-Force]

Ramachandra what caps did you use on the back side of the amp to replace the green ones? i also have problem with mica sheets...i need to buy new ones. any tips/sugestions?? Thanks in advance!!!

 

[ramachandra]

No shortage from mica sheets on eBay, you can get a big sheet and cut to the sizes you need. I have mostly used ERO MKP, Phillips MKP, Evox MMK, Wima MKS capcitors. Polystyrene, Silver Mica to replace the 100pF ceramic disk on the middle. The 0.1uF C613, C614 is on the signal path so if you put good axial film or MKP capacitors to those positions the Sub will benefit from it a bit. The rest is not necessarily a returning investment because the Sub is working on a narrow frequency range and harder to spot the improvement.

 

[DaddioJ]

would upgrading the cirrus logic chip to a better one help anything too? just curious

 

[ramachandra]

The CS42526 probably have only 3 pin compatible alternatives. Upgrade is a point of view. This is all I got: http://www.cirrus.com/en/pubs/proBulletin/42516prodbull.pdf
The 2 other ADC's and DSP look like have no alternatives, or at least I can not find.

 

[DaddioJ]

seems like the only difference would be current one is 6ch later one is 8ch

 

[DaddioJ]

  The CS42526 probably have only 3 pin compatible alternatives. Upgrade is a point of view. This is all I got: http://www.cirrus.com/en/pubs/proBulletin/42516prodbull.pdf
The 2 other ADC's and DSP look like have no alternatives, or at least I can not find.

 
slightly off topic i recently got a second set. z5500 i noticed this one POPS when turning on and off any switches. we have very good power. and my other set never did this. do you know what might be responsible for this?

 

[ramachandra]

I do not know for sure. My first guess is the positions of the cables. There are people with the same or similar similar experience and happen after a period of time so I have the reason to think it is  related to the aging electrolytic capacitors. Probably you are about to recap the system anyway, and for our benefit please let us know if it worked.