[A-Force]

For the tcxo if i conect it directly to the power suply will it be benefit the titanium and if i conect it should i conect only the 5v or the gnd too. Thx in advance!!!

 

[Abdiel]

Well, no, NJW1150 is not the culprit. It's a simple volume regulator, it can only modify bass/treble on front channels, so center and rear channels are not included, which rules it out.
 
I would say DSP is the one which cuts the frequency. Unless someone knows how to modify it's firmware, we can't do nothing about it.
 
There is one guy on this thread, Lukasz Kijak:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o194EKRPc34
Who wrote this:
"No I don't have because I'm using reprogrammed control pod where I can set low and high pass frequencies. DSP that is used in that control pod allows much more advanced settings than just simple Dolby PL Movie/Music. I will soon make a vid and a tutorial on how to mod this speakers."
 
I've tried to contact him on several occasions, but no response from him at all.
It would be very nice to have that video tutorial.

 

[Kuro-Neko]

Yes it probably is the DSP that controls the H/LPF, however I find it quite strange that the bass going to the fronts are powering the sub. A filter would not do this, if you set a HPF to say 100hz it would fade out the frequencies below that to zero (depending on what octave the filter uses how fast this fading is).
 
This is not quite what is happening, the frequencies below "100hz" are sent to the sub, not just faded out to zero. This happens regardless of what setting is used, usualy on a regular system if you use an effect like the neo 6 music it will send a stereo signal to rear, center and sub to create a kind of virtual surround. However the sub wont fade in volume if you mute one of the channels, it still plays exactly the same.
 
Something to try: Run "Direct" with effect "6 Ch Direct" on the pod.
 
Set front speakers to full-range and bass redirect off.
 
Play a song and notice that the sub plays pretty strong, not like when in "PLII Music" but still strong. Then try muting one channel, notice the sub fading alot!
 
Set front speakers to non full-range and bass redirect on with crossover at 80hz.
Play the same song and notice that the sub does not have the same strength at all, it sounds very dull and non-existent.
 
Strange? Yes very! Running PLII Music works very well and does what its supposed to, however this mode certainly contains a true HPF.
 
Another thing that is even more strange is when I decided to solder the components that I removed for the NJW1150 back to utilize the DC cut feature in the tone control (nice feature for saving speakers ), I removed the bridge leaving the circuit open and for testing purposes fired it up and guess what? STILL got sound on both channels! Tried all inputs and effect and there was no difference, the channel wich had the circuit open worked flawlessly. So the tone control of the chip is NOT in use at all.
 
Yes i have seen that video and it sounds very, VERY interesting! I do know that the pod is programmable as I found this a while back:
 

 
I have a theory of bypassing the DSP for Direct input utilizing the volume control chip only, this would let us use the DTS and Dolby on digital and get rid of the frequency cut when listening to music. Still just a theory I'm working on, reverse engineering the pod for a novice like me takes time.
 
Just a heads up: Try connecting headphones and crank it up, the sound is full of bass all the way through the registry.
 
Great thread! I love to bounce ideas like this, who knows maybe we'll solve this? It's the only thing holding back the z-5500 after this awesome mod!

 

[A-Force]

hey guys!!! i finished the 3rd mod!!! all 5 speakers are playing but i have some noises coming from sub(doops, krou-krou etc) just a little while i notice something i didnt do...i only remove c100,200,...,500, 6 caps and 3 op amps not everything( i mean the small caps around the place of the 3 op amps)...is this the problem what do you think?? i cant think anything else i triple check everything...

 

[A-Force]

i just remove the small caps around op amps. the problem still there but in a smaller degree. i also notice that the sub with full volume is playing low volume like it s not full power, ... any ideas?? please help!! where should i look????

 

[ramachandra]

Try to find a different position for the cables outside the Sub. Sometimes the system can pick up noises from the surrounding equipment, cellphone, Wi-Fi, power cords etc. Without the control pod the System becoming more sensitive than before, nothing serious.
 
I think one the OpAmps are not working as it should, or something not OK around one of the TDA Amps belong to the Sub. Or can be a broken TDA Amp too.

 

[A-Force]

thanks men appreciate the help!!!whete are the subs tda s?? and how can i test one if it s broken? the woofer plays but 1/3 of it s power maybe even less... is it possible the problem is caused from a faulty cap? because the speakers are playing just fine what should i exclude from the search? i m getting crazy here :-? i guess the preamp is just fine so i dont look there... i didn t mention before that i test the system opened so i be sure it s working before i closed it and put all the screws. i also closed it with my hand (not screws) but the prob still there... maybe the prob is that i didn t remove the 1uf electrolyte caps near power regulators or because i replace with the 16 v 10 uf cap in the corner or the 35v 47uf near op amps... the volts are same as factory but you said 50 v... maye the 3rd mod it depends on extra volts. also i only used 2 filer caps not 12

 

[ramachandra]

If all the soldering joints are checked OK try to swap one OpAmp firs than see what is happen, then the other if necessary. Next the TDAs. The black and red wire coming from the big speaker connected to the two TDA Amps on the sides you looking for. Without proper equipment for testing you can swap components nothing else.
Voltage ratings have nothing to do with Voltages present in a circuit. Only show what the component maximum can handle. The 2 main filter capacitors are fine too.

 

[maxxximatoze]

The Z8F3202AR020 is the main microcontroler unit that drives all the chips on the pcb and the lcd display. It has 32K of flash memory inside the package where is stored the firmware, it can be programmed in C with ZDS II software and the special Z8 Encore! Smart Cable which is connected to the debug pin of the chip and PC serial or usb port. It also drives the DSP CS49400 (datasheet hard to find, PM if you need it) but this one has it own firmwwre stored in SST 37VF020 2mbit flash (256Kib), the code responsible for all audio filtering (parametric EQ, tone control with DSPC 32bits) and dolby/dts decoding (done by DSPAB 24bits) etc...
 
There is three "connectors" onboard (cn1 cn2 and cn4), there are certainly used to program these two chip at the factory. I don't know the pinout.
 
If someone is able to dump the two flash memory to get the two firmwares, maybe some mod would be possible, not easy but possible if these flash memories are not read protected...

 

[A-Force]

ramachandra it s the op amp you were right!!! thank you!!! it is fixed!!! it s weird though... after all the eforts it was fixed by accident when i remove the solder with solder wick... i guess the op amps need low amount of solder or a better one who knows because i have this kind of prob with audio card... many tries until it s working...  THANK YOU again!!! 

 

[Abdiel]

Unfortunately I don't work with Zilog, no time to learn that too, but there is a possibility I could read the 37VF020. It would take a lot of time, but it's doable. If it's encrypted, we can do squat about it.
Not sure why CS49400 would need it for it's operation, but I guess if you have it's datasheet, you would know better.
 
My money is still on CS49400, it certainly is cutting the frequency.

 

[Kuro-Neko]

I found that the Zilog dev kit (Z8F64200100KITG) isn't that expensive and can be found at mouser for 34,56€, I was thinking of getting it later and learn it when i have the time. However I know absolutely nothing about coding in C so it would be better if someone more experienced looked at it.
 
 
And on to what i have been doing!
 
After tracing paths on the pod pcb and measuring points for hours many "what if's" popped up in my head but one struck me hard, what if i could bypass the CS494003 for the front speakers and keep input, volume, sub, surround control and dts decoding on the pod?
 
I decided to sacrifice the analog input on the side of the pod as i never use it. I desoldered the closest smd resistor opening the circuit and connected the pad to one input of the opamp responsible for the front speakers.
 
Picture: http://i.imgur.com/K1f8vAL.jpg
 

The result of this was incredible, there is no frequency cut at all and the sub still works with bass redirection and surround on and front speakers set to full-range running 6 channel direct. However volume control for fronts only works from 50% and up on the pod and as I haven't changed the caps for this opamp or even the opamp yet I thought i heard some crunching on higher volume. So I got another idea!
 
I soldered the first resistor back and removed the last resistor for the side input and then connected it after the opamp just before the NJW1150, I also connected the other channel.
 
Picture: http://i.imgur.com/W8Z0D5Y.jpg
Backside: http://i.imgur.com/65dA51t.jpg
 
The result? Simply amazing, you have no idea what this system is capable of until you try this!
The amp board has the great "third mod" as seen on ramachandras last pic in the guide since i bought it from him, this brings out the true potential of the mod and the sound is simply awesome. It now sounds better than very expensive audiophile systems i have heard.I have a pair of Marantz HD680 (8ohm 100w max) connected to the z-5500 and it sounds truly beautiful.
 
Are you thinking that the Marantz speakers is a waste on the z-5500 and it won't be able to push them? WRONG! The z-5500 speakers is actually very powerful, it has no problems at all pushing the speakers to their limit. The bass in the fronts kicks so hard I don't even have to turn on the sub!
 
Now there is not only good things that come with this mod and these are the minuses I currently know about:
 
- Volume control for front speakers only work from 50% and up. under that you'll have to lower on your computer. Apparently either the CS494003 or CS42526 adjusts volume from 1-50%, can't help to wonder why they did it like that. :/
- Front speakers will ONLY work with the side input regardless of what input you choose, even the analog in on the back is muted. (I don't know why but I'm trying to find a solution to this)
- Changing effects on the pod will not affect the fronts.
- DTS/DD won't work on the front speakers.
 
The best would be to access the Zilog and alter the CS494003 settings however if you can live with the above setbacks I can't help but recommend it until we gain access to the Z8.
I do NOT recommend doing this if you use digital and use DTS/DD as it will not work!
 
If you try this mod, be careful as you do it on your own risk! I'm not responsible if you mess something up. And be sure to turn the speakers OFF when connecting/disconnecting your cable to the side input, or you may damage your speakers!

 

[Abdiel]

@Kuro-Neko: very nice ideas!
 
You will not get anything if you access Z8. I mean, you will, but the main thing we should be getting access is DSP and it's crossover routines/filters and whatnot. I don't believe Z8 tells DSP how to cut frequency, I think that cutting the frequency is done natively in DSP code(CS494003 is audio decoder followed by programmable 32-bit post-processor DSP via Cirrus Framework and it's libraries) since satellites can't perform well below 120 Hz. In other words, I believe DSP is hard coded to automatically transfer all frequency below 150 Hz directly to sub-woofer channel, and clearing it from the rest of the channels.
 
It's no wonder you are getting good sound out of TDA7294 at full range, it's a good amp. Just google what people do with it and everything will be clearer.
 
I've seen CS494003's datasheet and it's rather complicated. It will take weeks or even months to make something out of it if you have no experience at it. I don't have, so... I think best thing would be to drop the idea. Even if we make something meaningful out of it and out of Z8, we still lack Cirrus Framework to code the DSP with another crossover frequency value.
 
Someone freely correct me if I am wrong about this!
 
I've already ordered NJW1151, NJM2755 and OPA1602AIDs to make my own stereo amplifier(in future multichannel), using TDA7294 with 2CS5200/2SA1943 pair as output transistors. It will be digitally controlled via remote control and iOS/Android apps using Bluetooth LE 4.0. For now I'm abandoning Z5500 modifications since getting full range at fronts is not possible without so many drawbacks.
 
If anyone cracks and re-flashes the DSP, I'll be back into it. I have so many ideas for Z5500 modification, but I will not go near it if I can't make fronts work at full range.

 

[Abdiel]

@Kuro-Neko: You should try using sub output and direct it to front speakers. You can take the signal from last opamp in control pod from where sub channel is going to amplifer. If I'm not mistaken, that signal needs to be raised for 10dB. After you amplify it by 10dB, use another set of opams to feed the front channels that signal. You can do the same for center channel.
After that, you can add one active crossover to sub channel which will limit it's frequency to 100Hz(or 80Hz) and below.
 
Pros:
- full range frequency on front channels and also center channel if you wish(rears can be added to!)
- subwoofer will work with frequency of 80Hz and below (no more voice from sub!)
 
Cons:
- nothing (yay!)
 
If one would do this mod, I would advise caution since 78M18 and 79M18 voltage regulators may not provide enough current for few new opamps. If you have done other mods and removed few original opamps, you are safe. Another option is to change 78(9)M18 with versions that can provide more current.
 
Looking forward to hearing a feedback from you guys.

 

[blue2010]

Hi Folks,
 
i'm very interested in modding my Z-5500. I got the parts needed to mod the control pod the same way Ramachandra did it (6 OpAmps and the capacitors).
I found somebody to do the mod for me and now everything is fine except the front left and front right channel. There is no sound other than a buzzing, like "bzzzzt", when i turn the volume up or down. The other channels are working fine, so no problem with Sub/C or RL/RR - i'm really frustrated now.
The buzzing noise is only coming in analog mode. When playing digital, front left and right are working but are very quiet (like 30% volume of center speaker)
My question is, what are the possible mistakes we could have made?
 
One thing happend, the yellow wire from the control pod connection cable did break, but we soldered it again to where it belong (maybe we didn't do it well?)
 
i hope somebody can help
 
thanks in advance
 
 
blue2010