Almi's Logitech Z-5500 Mod (High-End upgrade for the speaker system)
Feb 17, 2015 at 4:50 AM Post #226 of 544
No point to remove the filters before the replacement show up. Cutting the blue plastic cover around, or off from the capacitor's body will help to set them loose. (If the whole plastic coming off better to mark the polarity, just in case if something not turn out for you as expected with the replacement.)
 
Feb 17, 2015 at 6:09 PM Post #227 of 544
Hi all!
I have problem with my z5500,I bought control pod PID629 for my woofer 608 (before this i was using it with control pod bypass and everything worked like a dream... but when I connect original pod I don't have sound in direct input 6 channel mode on any speaker,but in stereo and stereo x2 I do have sound. I have opened Control pod and everything is looking fine (I'm not the expert),tested vga cable with multimeter and all wires are ok. The z5500 is connected to my PC with analog cables. What can be the problem? Didn't tried to test with coax and optical cable yet btw. Please help.Best wishes.
P.S Sorry for my bad english.
 
Feb 18, 2015 at 9:46 AM Post #229 of 544
Nope, the switch is on 6 channel position, I wish that it wasn't...
In stereo and stereo x2 I can hear a little hiss coming from the speakers but in 6 chn or any other mode no, dead silence....
And if I plug headphones in control pod 3.5 jack I can hear sound in 6 chn and in all other modes(on headphones of course)... 
UPDATE: I have openned the sub and find 1 burnt resistor
http://www.dodaj.rs/f/35/gy/3EmNwHu5/img20150218203737.jpg
Could this be the problem?
Edit: I have replace that resistor(it was working even in that condition- I've checked with multimeter) but still the same problem... Everything else is in good condition, I have triple check every chip,capacitor,resistor and wire...
 
Feb 19, 2015 at 8:48 AM Post #230 of 544
There are SMD ceramic capacitors on the back of the panel, one of them belong to the burnt resistor. Check it for short circuit. If required replace it to a 220nF capacitor. It can save one of the TDA Amps to fail, and not related to the pod.
 
According what you describe I think the DSP is not functioning right. The chip can be faulty or the related component(s), or not getting the necessary power for the stable operation.
I suggest to open the pod and check the Voltages under load. You need to find a ground whit one probe and use the other for measuring. First check what the Pod get from the sub, it should be close to 8V before the regulators (LM317D2) and after the regulator it should be tight to 5V or 3.3V. I'm not sure the requirements of the DSP (no proper datasheet), but this two values are the most common for chips. Make sure you do not make a short circuit wit the probe by accident (easy). To be honest maybe better to return the Pod to the seller if the voltages check OK. Even it is working fine with the digital connection it will sound disappointing after the direct cable connection you had, (unless the volume control is poor on the cable).
 
Feb 19, 2015 at 9:09 AM Post #231 of 544
Thanks on answer ramachandra but turning back is no option in my country, when you bought something you bought it for good. I checked those SMD caps on the back and they look good on the eye. I will check the control pod.
 
Feb 26, 2015 at 9:18 AM Post #232 of 544
Ramachandra what matrix board should i use(dimensions) from mouser preferably and what is your recomedation for filter cups...i have two elnas 10000uf. The 10uf, 1uf, 0.1uf it s best to use k73-16???or the small is better to use elnas\nichikon?
 
Feb 26, 2015 at 6:03 PM Post #233 of 544
When I done the firs mod I was asking one of my friend (he build amplifiers), what should I do to get the best results from the filter capacitors. He suggested me to build similar what I have done. The more balanced steps you have between the biggest and the smallest cap is the better in theory, to achieve an ideal capacitor.
I had 5cm X 7cm boards for the 4 electrolytes in the Third Mod, and more caps need wider board of course. You just need to measure the diameter of the capacitors to see the minimum you need. Minimum means all the caps fit, but it not means if you put the hex spacer to the corners you get a good location on the PCB to drill holes, so bigger board give you more freedom to pick the right spots, then you can find the optimal arrangement for the capacitors. Prototyping boards breaking easy after a cut on the surface and sandpaper can take care of the rough edges. The Elna For Audio you have is perfect, the film capacitors are superior compared to electrolytes for audio purpose in general, but size and capacity is problematic. As I see beyond 1uF the electrolytes are easier to use. In theory the same brand and series are better because the similarity of the internal materials and dielectric, in practice you get different sound by mixing brands or series.
No point to stick to K73-16, if you have easier access known brand MKT capacitors.
 
Feb 28, 2015 at 12:45 PM Post #236 of 544
i changed the capacitors on the pre amp board. i initially had bass. then i lost it. i re installed the old ones and still nothing. very little. what else would cause this. i do not have the newer pre amp board. its the bigger older one
 
Feb 28, 2015 at 2:32 PM Post #237 of 544
If you only changed capacitors and all the joints perfect, check the +18 -18V regulators on the main PCB, if you had short circuit earlier they may be damaged. Both of them have a resistor near by on the newer boards to limit the current they get, and in case of short circuit they change color or even get burnt on the middle and tend to change resistance.  So maybe need to be replaced.
 
Mar 1, 2015 at 10:53 AM Post #238 of 544
I finaly was able to remove the 3 main capacitors on the main board and replaced them with the Elna for denon and nichicon super through, but then i got a very loud humming sound!
Put the original capacitors back on but the humm does not go away so now i am wondering what is the problem!?
 
Any ideas?
 
Thanks in advance
 
Mar 1, 2015 at 12:23 PM Post #239 of 544
well i scratched this exta z5500 to the side for now. scrapped all the landings. and everything is prefect. made sure all the traces are intact... will check more later..  i know the Z906 are not as good. but i went ahead and purchased them. i guess i will mod them as well :D
 
 
ps. on the z5500 unit. all the satellites play loud and clear. just hardly any sub. very subtle bass
 
Mar 1, 2015 at 5:21 PM Post #240 of 544
Today i tried to make the bypass cable but when i conect it, it didn t work. it make a very loud whistle. (the voloume on windows 2%...) i don t know whats the problem... i solder together pin 6,7,8,13 and all these with the ground of the 3 cables... no switch because the sub has already one. the 5 chanels with wirewound resistor 22k5w. i saw one difrence...in your schematic the second line of pins(6,7,8,9,10) are a little right, in comparison the first line...mine is a littlle left!!!(from the sodering side). i guess the schematic is for the soldering side... where is my mistake ramachandra?
 

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